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rear wheel camber


old-tank

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I took my 55 Century to an alignment shop because of pulling to the right (turned out it was due to the 5 year old radials falling apart).  The front alignment had not changed since the last time.  They have a new machine that checks all 4 wheels and although they said they probably would not routinely check the rears, they did it anyway for 'practice'.  Anyhow the rear wheels showed 5 degrees negative camber (leaning with the top cocked in).  Since that is not adjustable, I will not do anything about it.  Causes offered were bearing wear or bent axle housing.  Maybe that is normal for a Buick of this era?  Anyone with experience on alignments or results on their car?

Willie

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Seems to me that 5 deg is way quite a bit. A quick trig check says that if the tire stands 30" high a 5 deg angle would mean the lean in would measure 2 5/8" and both wheels would be 5 1/4" closer at the top than the bottom. That's enough to easily see by eye. Bearings worn enough to give 5 neg seems impossible. I could believe one side of the housing being bent but both sides bent upwards the same amount, pretty unlikely. Methinks they need more "practice" or double check where the decimal point is...........Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Did they check it with the top down?

 

I have a Triplet analog electrical multimeter that a friend gave me around 1982. We  were moving into a lot of field testing and the traditional Simpson 260's were bulky. I was looking at a digital. He gave me the meter and said "Never use a tool that is smarter than you. It will only get you in trouble."

 

It's pretty likely that a couple of strings with nuts for weights will amaze them..... maybe not.

Bernie

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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I could imagine their being a half degree of camber.  Five degrees?  That would be like an overloaded Triumph Spitfire going down the road.  Heck, put a gravity angle finder on the wheel and that will be close enough to tell you that you don't have anywhere near five degrees!   :)

Edited by Aaron65 (see edit history)
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I agree with Bob.  The alignment tech needs more practice.  The only way to get that kind of camber is dropping your Buick from a 2 story building.  Bearing wear?  Highly unlikely and if the bearing was proved to be the issue said bearing would being making a grinding noise like no other.

 

Rear wheel drive cars should get a thrust angle alignment.  The procedure utilizes the position of all 4 tires.  Also, to knock a car out of alignment take an awful lot of  force.  If you have not driven over a curb like the cops was after you then the alignment should be unaffected with general driving.    

 

So, Willie, with camber like that when are you going to start drifting the 55?    

 

Nagoya-Exciting_Car_Showdown-Camber1.jpg

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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Ok, I asked again and he said 5 degrees.  Then he checked the computer and it said 0.6 degrees on the right and 0.5 degrees on the left with zero toe-in on both.  So no bent axle and maybe normal for that axle with the roller bearings and the inner race on the axle shaft.  Sorry for the confusion.

Willie

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"double check where the decimal point is"...........Bob

 

Ok, I asked again and he said 5 degrees.  Then he checked the computer and it said 0.6 degrees on the right and 0.5 degrees on the left with zero toe-in on both.  So no bent axle and maybe normal for that axle with the roller bearings and the inner race on the axle shaft.  Sorry for the confusion.

Willie

[/quote

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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... when are you going to start drifting the 55?    

 

 

Already tried it.  Lots of fun on a snowy parking lot.  No snow since I escaped.

Thanks all for the geometry lessons.

The car is on jack stands now and there is no perceptible looseness in the axles.  But one front wheel bearing is suspect.  And since I am out of front ball bearings, it is time to install the roller bearings I found... and carry any good ball bearings as spares.

Willie

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909065R outer 

909062R inner

the numbers are  Buick, the outer is 58 which is backward compatible; the R suffix denotes roller bearing.  They were probably only made in the 1950's and 1960's...the ones I have were made by now defunct companies.

They show up, but may take a daily search for months.

Willie

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My "gut's" tellin' me that there needs to be a second opinion from another alignment shop.  A solid rear axle, as I understand it, should have 0 degrees caster, but a very slight amount of toe-in (for vehicle stability).  1/2 degree of camber should be visible, just as it is on many late model IRS vehicles (that's "independent rear suspension") with negative rear wheel camber (some more visible than others).  AND . . . you should be able to measure it with one of the fancy "building construction" protractor levels, or a lug nut-on-a-string and a plastic protractor, relative to the slope of the surface the vehicle is sitting upon.

 

I would also suspect that 1/2 degree of camber would show a slight wear pattern, over time, especially on bias-ply tires.

 

NTX5467

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My "gut's" tellin' me that there needs to be a second opinion from another alignment shop.  A solid rear axle, as I understand it, should have 0 degrees caster, but a very slight amount of toe-in (for vehicle stability).  1/2 degree of camber should be visible, just as it is on many late model IRS vehicles (that's "independent rear suspension") with negative rear wheel camber (some more visible than others).  AND . . . you should be able to measure it with one of the fancy "building construction" protractor levels, or a lug nut-on-a-string and a plastic protractor, relative to the slope of the surface the vehicle is sitting upon.

 

I would also suspect that 1/2 degree of camber would show a slight wear pattern, over time, especially on bias-ply tires.

 

NTX5467

Due to my 'frugal nature', I don't want to spend another $25 checking this one again or comparing the readings on one of my other ones.  And even though the car is on jack stands waiting for new tires, my 'lazy a$$ nature' will not check the axle bearing looseness with a dial indicator even though my iphone compass/level app showed some positive camber.  I never noticed any wear pattern when using bias-ply tires (worn out at 15k miles) and the last set of radials fell apart at 5 years and 30K miles before any wear was noticed. :D

Willie

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Yes, I did see that correction.  Basically it looks like it can go either way with the steering wheel.  I wonder if the spline area is the difference, as the 55 has the integral steering column and the 56 was the intro for the rag-joint column.  Be that as it may, to stay on this thread, I agree.  In the case I cited one bearing began to make noise, but the other one did not, so only the noisy one was changed ( if it ain't broke, don't fix it thought process).  In my limited experience I would always change both rear wheel bearings if I had symptoms on only one side. 

 

I am not, however, encouraging Willie to do anything here. He know more from experience with these things than me.   As far as I'm concerned I would never attempt to teach the teacher!  

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   In my limited experience I would always change both rear wheel bearings if I had symptoms on only one side. 

 

  

 

And this is not such a crazy idea.   My friend would change both headlights if one had blown.  Think about it.  They had the same amount of hours burn time. Seems logical the working headlamp will die in short order.  Same logic could be applied with the wheel bearings. 

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