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Oil pan holes


bob duffer

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I had my Oil pan media blasted and there is some heavy pitting on the inside , so much that

there is a tiny pin hole right in the bottom middle. I know i can have it welded to seal the

hole but are there any products out there that will seal the other pitting in the pan? I'm sure

i can't just go out and buy a new pan for a 34 Buick , if i could i would do that. Unless someone

knows of a place to get a new one.

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If there is one pinhole that you found, there are other thin spots that are not too far behind. Get it welded correctly rather than a "half-fast" fix that you'll be regretting for years.

I gotta agree on this. Or you can scroll on down to the "Buick" section of the forum and ask. You never know.....there may be an extra one out there.

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The metal used back then was inferior to today's in that pin holes would often rust through leaving relatively sound metal around the holes looking almost like worms did the job. If that's the case spot repair would be a very viable fix. If there is widespread rot with extensive thinning of the pan then a steel patch would be best. Depending on the pan contours a welded patch could get to be a fairly complex ($$$$$) job if done correctly .......................Bob

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Sandblast the outside of the pan and fiberglass using random wove glass.

Properly sanded and feathered will seal the leaks and be very presentable.

(Works on gas tanks too, but fill with water before sandblasting to prevent an explosion)

Fiberglass is a poor way to repair a rusty fender. You're telling us that it's OK to use where there is hot oil and thermal cycling? Sorry, but not on my car.

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Bob Duffer knows the best way to repair oil leaks in an oil pan is to replace it with a new one.

He asked this forum if anyone knew of a product that would seal the pan. Several ways were suggested. I suggested fiber glassing the outside of the pan and then sand and refinish. Not the best way, as a new pan is the best way, but it will seal the leaks. I have "repaired" many gas tanks with this process. I’ve done it on "winter beaters", drivers and cars that new tanks were not available.

Repairing fenders with fiber glass as mentioned by another member is a different story. And yes I have repaired fenders with fiber glass with great successes. You do use a different method though than repairing an oil pan. I sand blasted both sides of a qut. panel on a 55 Ford panel truck. Fiber glass was applied on both sides and properly sanded and refinished. It was possible because the area in question was filled with holes like Swiss cheese because of water getting under the undercoating in the middle of the panel. Because the metal was completely encapsulated with fiber glass and painted, water was not able to penetrate between the metal and the glass causing failure.

Again, not the best repair, as a new side of the truck would have been better, but it was completely invisible from both sides and will last as long as the paint protects it.

I also fiber glassed the underside of a 56 300 Chrysler hood that had sat outside, upside down in a field and the water collected between the insulation and the metal and made a thousand holes through the hood without distorting the shape. I covered the inside with fiber glass (aprox. 3’ X 4’) and applied auto body filler to the top surface for an invisible repair that today, after 15 years, is not showing any defects.

The oil pan does not contain any water,(at least it shouldn’t) so there is no chance of rust between the glass and the steel. Thermal expansion could be considered, but fiber glass and steel are bonded on trucks all the time, right from the factory, without any problems.

The hood of the Chrysler though, does buckle a little under the hot sun after a long drive.

Theirs always more than one way to skin a cat, and the cat won’t know it because it was dead (like the oil pan) before you resurrected it.

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There are many ways to do this. I once poked a hole in an oil pan on a really bad road. I was forced to go camping right there on the spot. I walked up to the main road and hitchhiked into town where I got some silicone and some emory paper and oil. I then repaired the pan with a big glob of silicone after I cleaned the area real well. We spent the rest of the day trout fishing and left the next morning. My silicone repair lasted the whole rest of the time I had the car (about six years). I think any of these methods will work if done carefully. Good luck.

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The oil pans I have had problems with rust from the inside out. This is caused by water that has become acidic that settles to the bottom and sits for a long period of time. This is the same problem that rust out exhaust systems when the car is run for a short time.

Clean the oil pan inside and out , weld the holes up as well as any deep pits

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WOW, that is a list of suggestions. I have been doing my own metal work for over 40 years, any fabrication shop should be able to cut out the weak spot and weld in a new piece of steel, it would look like new. What I would do is clean it up well, and braze the holes up and put it back together (least expensive option, and most period correct repair) and then look for a new/good oil pan, hot rodders are a great source. Good Luck

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