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1935 Dodge Brothers pickup


softtomgirl
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I checked my glass; front and rear is safety glass. Door glass was broken long ago. I do have the original Ram radiator cap. The original engine was removed when I was a toddler... its long gone. Im using a 230cid engine. I cannot find any remnant of blue paint but plenty of red paint hidden in between parts. Truck has been black since early 60's. I don't have the original 16" rims... I need to find some soon.

Have a set of 16" wheels for sale.

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I sometimes wonder if it's worth the effort to put on the original 17". Mine came with 15" from the 40s or 50s and I scoured the planet for 17" but never found any. So I gave up and put on a nice almost NOS set of 16" and "LT" (light truck)bias ply tubed black wall tires from a local tire store. They look great and very authentic. Then of course within 2 years I found a set of 17"! But I've got so much time and money wrapped up in the 16" I can't bring myself to change over. Besides my local tire shop cannot get me bias ply 17". I would have to special order them and God knows how much that would set me back. So that's my story about tires and rims. You may want to follow me for sanitys sake.

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Noted DodgeKCL!

Right now I have 15" rims that are actually too small (front tie-rod ends hit the 15" rims). 17" rims/tires do look better as indicated in the picture from 30dodge35. I have been watching on ebay for artillery rims... I see a set of 4 for $650.00, but one just doesnt quite know the condition of them. I really dont even know what a 'good' price on a rim of that vintage is actually worth, which makes me really cautious when it comes to buying.

Dennis

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Dave: 1935 KCL was only availabe in a "chassis only" (mine) or a panel. No pickup. So it has to be a 111" KC. Yes I agree the "CLNR" is the optional air cleaner. But which one? There were 3 types: an oil bath heavy duty -$2.50,a VORTOX with standard breather -$17.50 (!) and a VORTOX with VORTOX breather cap $19.50 (!!!).Those last 2 were a LOT of money in 1935. Chrome front bumper was $6. Duplate glass could be had just for the windshield but I think we'll find this vehicle has it all around- $14. The "ornamental rad cap" was $2 and this is the common Rocky Mountain sheep one. If it wasn't ordered a smooth chrome plated "standard cap" was installed no charge. I'm yet to see a build sheet without the $2 leaping ram sheep included. Mine had it and I only got a "flat faced cowl and chassis". It must of been the thing to have on your Dodge. The 3 years HC/KC/KC were the 1st Dodges to have the Ram cap which is what Dodge now calls all their trucks with the Ram's head all over the vehicle. We have the 1st vehicles to have this corporate logo. Perhaps Dennis could enlighten us as to what his truck came with now that he has all the info? If the glass does not have any printing on it saying "DUPLATE", then looking down on the edge of the side windows should show the "sandwhich" of 2 pieces of glass with plastic film between.

Thanks for the info,always learning.

With the comment that 1935 KCL that pickups were not available. I do have one and so does one of our customers that I did a video when he came to our shop. The KC bed is 63" and the KCL bed is 71" Picture is a 35 2nd series KCL. The extra length is behind the rear fender.

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Hmmmmm. Dont you just love these books. Don Bunn's book on DODGE PICKUPS says and I quote:"COMMERCIAL PICKUP $480,COMMERCIAL PICKUP 119" -NA" It appears it's wrong or did they only appear in the 2nd series? We may have to rewrite history ourselves.

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  • 3 months later...

Thereare different ways, on the KC , I raised the windowup and taped it up or have someone hold it,

Then remove the 3 screws holding window regulator Assy. Then it will have enough room to be pushed In .then rotate to opening on bottom,

Un-tape window and allow it to be lowered to slide arm to slot,

Then raise window and remove mechanism.

Don't forget to make funny faces!! It a difficult job.

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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window regulators are out. had to get a strong friend to help. going back in won't be easy. one of the channels that the glass sit in is gone.  spent the afternoon sanding in an effort to find the serial number now that I have the fender off. no luck so far.

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  • 1 month later...

what is entailed in switching out drum to disc brakes? and I'd like to have the engine rebuilt this winter. any advice?

You are on the wrong forum if you plan on upgrading the brakes to discs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the factory brake system.

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The process is long and costly to switch to disk brakes

You can have your drums turn and powerecoated

All the parts shoes and cylinders and hoses are available from Roberts or Andy Berbaum

With the amsco micrometer the brake will set correctly

You will have plenty of stopping power

Need to invest in some jack stands

Cinder blocks have been known to crumple when you least expect it

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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No need to apologize. It's just that this forum is dedicated to the preservation of original cars. Disk brakes are considered by many to be hot rodding your car. I don't want to start that old argument again as there is no solution to it. With your motor and gearing, the original brakes will be fine. You're not going to be going much over fifty in original form.

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