FLYER15015 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 O.K. guys, here is the question......While the baby has been sleeping through this cold Colorado winter it seem she has wet her diaper (on the left front wheel) and has deposited some brake fluid on my newly painted floor.So while I am not the least bit afraid of doing a "brake job" (she's got new shoes), the question is ...Should I hone the cylinders, (wheels and master) OR should I just buy the new / rebuilt ones I see in the catalogs ?Keep in mind that she is a series 90 so lots of differences here.Gosh, I've not honed brake cylinders since High School shop class, when I did my '52 Plymouth, but thanks to Youtube it's all come back.I would plan to "hone in place" so as not to disturb any more of the system than is necessary. The steel and rubber lines all look good.What do you all think ???:confused::confused::confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 If the cylinders aren't pitted I'd rebuild them myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) I personally would take the line off and flush good with some brake cleaner if you don't remove. The only suggestion would be to polish out the bore good after honing because the hones I have bought are too course for final finish and will cause the rubber cups to stick in the bore. TJ55Uhhhh, the master cannot be honed in place;) And the shoes will have to be removed anyway won't they? Edited February 18, 2014 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I think so too, you come on a disassembling from all the cylinder not arround.The good on it is all the old threads from the tubes and lines you have to move and you have the possibility to preserve it fresh.after honing i use rough steelwool and my finger for finishing the cylinder walls.Hope for you ,you have no deep rust marks in the cylinder only on its surface .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 If you decide to remove them, I would send them out to be resized and sleeved with stainless. That way you know that you will have a new surface and will probably never have to worry about them leaking ever again. White Post and Apple Hydraulics do hundreds of them, and I am sure that there are many others that do them also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hi,I have had excellent sleeving service from brakeplace.com--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 My two questions would be 1. are the rebuilt cylinders available and 2.what is the price of the rebuilt cylinders compared to the kit. My experience has been that sometimes the price difference is so small that I just get the rebuilt cylinders which usually come with a good warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Measure your bore diameters before making your decision. These cylinders could have been honed many times over the years and be too large to maintain a good seal. White post still sleeves the cylinders with brass and gives a lifetime warranty on the cylinders. There are other places that sleeve with stainless. There are arguments for both methods. I still get White post to do my work as they are local and I save shipping. this past year has been my year for brakes. I've done complete systems on 3 cars, 60 Invicta custom, 85 Mustang, 70 GS and am working on my 40 Ford system now. I'm tired of bending brake lines and making double flares. Bleeding is a real pain also.Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 O.K. guys, here is the question......While the baby has been sleeping through this cold Colorado winter it seem she has wet her diaper (on the left front wheel) and has deposited some brake fluid on my newly painted floor.So while I am not the least bit afraid of doing a "brake job" (she's got new shoes), the question is ...Should I hone the cylinders, (wheels and master) OR should I just buy the new / rebuilt ones I see in the catalogs ?Keep in mind that she is a series 90 so lots of differences here.Gosh, I've not honed brake cylinders since High School shop class, when I did my '52 Plymouth, but thanks to Youtube it's all come back.I would plan to "hone in place" so as not to disturb any more of the system than is necessary. The steel and rubber lines all look good.What do you all think ???:confused::confused::confused:Mike, are the brake lines original? The steel brake lines looked good on my `36, but were rusted up on the inside, which makes the inside hole smaller and restricting the flow.. my rubber hoses were also rusted up, not the rubber, the steel ends.. Good luck Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Get them re-sleeved. Replacements are not available, no matter what the vendor says. Your cyl is 1 1/8" and all the smaller Buicks are 1 1/16"Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) Get them re-sleeved. Replacements are not available, no matter what the vendor says. Your cyl is 1 1/8" and all the smaller Buicks are 1 1/16"BillYup, your right Bill.Ain't it great to own a "big" series car ?The whole darn thing is cast of unobtainium..................There's no great mystery to doing a brake job, so when I actually tear her down, I'll inspect and measure the wheel cylinder bores. Take a rubber cup to my friendly NAPA kid and find a set of cups (the only new part required) that were made for that bore. The end caps, springs and pistons can be cleaned up and reused.For the M/C, "Bob's" is the place for a repair kit. or replacement unit. Edited February 20, 2014 by FLYER15015 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Since we last talked in February, the Colorado dummy has purchased a M/C and 4 wheel cyl kits plus the 3 required hoses.This week we honed and polished the M/C. Just had a couple of minor pits back where the spring lays, and 3 mechanics here in town thought it would be O.K. She only "seeped" a bit before.The difference between a "seep" and a "leak" is that a "leak" drips............Tomorrow we will tackle the LF wheel cylinder as I think it is the worst.In the mean time old dummy has lost that funky little bloated "A" shaped spring clip that secures the M/C mounting plate to the brake/clutch pedal shaft. It is listed on page 249 (thanks Jolly-John) of the parts book in section 8.934 as P/N 148154.If any of you have a spare or a source (other than the local Fastenal store), I sure would be interested. I do have 2 "E" rings on her now, and they seem to be doing the job, but I really would like to find the right part.Well, tomorrow we will see if the wheel cylinders are good enough to hone, or if resleeving/replacement is in order.Keep your fingers crossed..........Best Regards,Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Dandy Dave agrees with resleeving with stainless. Get er done and don't go back. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I use DOT5 silicone brake fluid and I have never had any trouble with rust in the cylinders or lines in my Jeep or the Volvo. Been in the jeep for 20 years and the Volvo for 12. The DOT4 is hydroscopic and takes on water, hence the rust. My 2 cents.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Hi Mike,While you're about it, consider your rubber brake hoses. If your cylinders are clogged/pitted/leaking/failing, my guess is that your hoses are probably old and shot also. These guys can look fine, but they deteriorate on the inside where you can't see them! You may find hose debris in your brake fluid in the wheel cylinders. Beware of EBay Argentine hoses--get DOT-standard hoses for your car. Hoses Unlimited in Holland Michigan is my source. BTW--does your car have a 4th hose? A little guy that is connected directly to the master cylinder? If so, don't forget to replace him!--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) Thanks to all so far........I pulled the master and all 4 wheel cylinders today, and they are UNHONABLE ! Full of pits and crud from all those years.They are going to California (Karp's) for stainless sleeves. Subject to how the discussion goes MondayFYI the M/C is 1 1/8" the fronts are 1 1/4" and the rears are 1 3/16" dia bores.Still looking for that "A" shaped clip to go on the pedal shaft. Got a "want" listed in the buy / sell forum. Waiting for the big car guys to bail me out.Love owning a 90 series car..........Stay tuned,Mike in Colorado Edited April 13, 2014 by FLYER15015 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Hi,Love owning a 90 series car..........LOL--just wait until you need tie rod ends!BTW--I may have that clip--I'll check tomorrow. --Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Hi Tom,Believe it or not my local Carquest had tie rod ends and drag link cups last year. The believe it or not part is that the drag link cups were for a John Deere tractor. Just a bit of grinding on the O.D. and they fit the Buick just fine.I do supply Bert's Model A in Denver with annealled ball bearings for rebuilding Ford steering "balls". Drill 'em out and weld 'em on, for drag links and tie rods.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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