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Speedo cable


R.White

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I eventually got round to investigating my speedo which has never worked since I acquiring the car. The inner cable is broken and the lower 3" or so is missing. I have looked on the usual suppliers (Romar and Myers) websites but they don't seem to offer a replacement. Does anyone have any suggestions where to try, please?

Ray.

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Hi Jay. Thanks for the link. I think the missing end may have a square drive (I don't have the end so not sure) but the speedo end has a peculiar little blade, protruding from a round section, as the drive - so the repair kit may not work with a barrel type instrument.

Perhaps if I could somehow transfer the original drive end to a modern cable cut to length?

I will need to have a bit of luck with this I think!

Ray.

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Guest txphantom

Ray,

You may try Bob's Speedometer Shop in Howell Michigan. 810 632-0400 They can make new tach and speedometer cables. If your sleeve is good, they shouldn't have a problem. He has mine there now from my 24DB along with all my gauges doing a complete refurb.

Dave

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Hello Ray,

Have you discovered why the cable broke? Might save some trouble later.

The speedo body in my '30 DC is die-cast. It is swelling as the metal components react and corrode, nipping up on the input tube and resulting in a broken cable. The Studebaker had something go wrong in the speedo too (it was a long time ago so I can't remember what happened), resulting in a broken cable. As well as the speedo body, the die-cast DC door handles are swelling, nipping up on the key lock in the driver's door. And what a pain that is!

Graham

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Thanks guys, another great response. I imagine the sleeve could also be chewed up inside - if that's the case a new inner could snag and cause the speedo to behave erratically. I will need to examine it more closely.

There is also a problem with the barrel type speedo. If I insert the inner cable and rotate it, there is 'catching' going on because the drum spins out of control and doesn't drop back to zero on it's own. Rather optimistically, I am hoping the parts just need a clean. There should be a small air gap between the magnet and the drum but of course there could be a little distortion if the instrument has been ill treated. I imagine these things should not be too difficult to repair; although I have not had one exactly the same as this apart, I imagine they all work on similar lines.

Ray.

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The speedometer in my Senior was not working when I bought the car ( it had only sat unmoving for 35 years). I finally got around to taking it apart last week and the pot metal casting was all cracked and had frozen the fly wheel as is apparently quite common. Even if I find another one the odds are that it will be bad too ( with this car I have really grown to hate pot metal). The only option I see is to bite the bullet and buy the aluminum repro housing made by Glenn Smith and rebuild the speedometer. my cable did not break but the flange on the end is broken off so it will not be able to drive the flywheel so I too will have to come up with a replacement or figure out how to repair it. Bob's Speedometer Shop may be hearing from me also so I will keep the number txphantom gave handy and also thanks for the info.

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Ray, don't know if you've seen this yet. You may recognize something that may help. Is there a way you can tell us what the approximate length should be by chance so we can keep an eye out for you ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-of-8-Antique-Auto-SPEEDOMETER-CABLES-Vintage-Car-Part-NO-Cores-/321307115787?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acf65810b&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPEEDOMETER-CABLE-HOUSING-OLD-ANTIQUE-VINTAGE-CAR-MODEL-T-HOT-ROD-/181307105904?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a36bee270

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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post-78869-143142367355_thumb.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]232356[/ATTACH]

The outer sleeve measures 17 3/4" so quite short. The inner protrudes by about 1/4" and is of the 'key' type. I don't know how far the inner should protrude at the gearbox end but I guess the overall length would be about 18 1/2".

I have been searching in the usual places but have yet to find the short cable with the right end. The end is secured to the cable by a crimp. One of my searches has turned up a company who I remember being recommended by someone from my Austin club a few years ago but whether they will take on an American instrument, I don't know but might be worth a try.

http://www.speedycables.com/aboutus.html

I bet there are boxes of these things sitting on a shelf somewhere!!

Thanks for all the help being offered - this is such a great forum!

Ray.

post-78869-143142367392_thumb.jpg

Edited by R.White (see edit history)
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The speedometer in my Senior was not working when I bought the car ( it had only sat unmoving for 35 years). I finally got around to taking it apart last week and the pot metal casting was all cracked and had frozen the fly wheel as is apparently quite common. Even if I find another one the odds are that it will be bad too ( with this car I have really grown to hate pot metal). The only option I see is to bite the bullet and buy the aluminum repro housing made by Glenn Smith and rebuild the speedometer. my cable did not break but the flange on the end is broken off so it will not be able to drive the flywheel so I too will have to come up with a replacement or figure out how to repair it. Bob's Speedometer Shop may be hearing from me also so I will keep the number txphantom gave handy and also thanks for the info.

You will not be dissapointed with the quality of that housing from Glenn. Good move on its purchase

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I have heard back from 'Speedy Cables' who say they can make me a new one if I send them mine as a pattern.

Ray.

IF you are still thinking of an original I have contact in Kansas who had one from a 26 Dodge. Just waiting for him to check his inventory and get back to me. If you decide to have a new one made just let me know so I don't waste any time or money on it.

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