Jump to content

Texacola

Members
  • Posts

    171
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Texacola

  1. Is that the one the Club recently purchased at auction which will be or is on display at Meadow Brook Hall? Solid Gold
  2. The piece of "round stock" is either the remainder of the support rod or something someone stuck in the hole. In either case the hole in the bracket is for attaching the support rod that runs between the two headlights.
  3. DB went to 6 volt during 1926. Your headlight is the same style I have on my 1927 (Sept 1926 build) .
  4. Jim's Battery Mfg. neither answers their phone or returns calls. My guess is they are a small business unable to keep up with demand (only co. producing repro batteries). I was only able to reach them by email which they would return to string you along. Waited months for battery with no luck. When you call message states "all agents currently helping other customers" . I do not believe there are ANY agents on any lines (a bit of a scam). I went to Chevrolet and purchased a current Delco (last one lasted 21 years on a tender in a "62 Vette). In my opinion reproduction batteries are no longer available and as an NCRS master judge point deductions should be limited due to this fact
  5. Someone here must know the answer, but from what I have read Dodges' were not built in Canada until after Chrysler bought DB in 1928. Prior to that DB's were sold through a DB Canadian sales organization.
  6. The broken ring may have been the cause of you vibration. I once broke about one inch of the land between two rings that caused a vibration and one heck of a rap at all rpm's. From the sound and vibration I thought I blew a piston. Amazingly it didn't even scour the cylinder wall. Bill
  7. Hey Mike, Short of putting a spare motor in the back seat lol . do you have a ceiling structure above (can't see it in pic.)? I have joists above mine and have used that structure when needing to apply downforce on a frame/suspension etc. All you would need is a couple of 2x's placed between your frame and the joists as far back as possible. Just a thought. Bill
  8. Franklinman, It was common for engine pad and body # stampings to be hand stamped using individual letters/numbers placed in a holder which keeps them in perfect alignment, which as Mike said does not look hand done. You can duplicate the exact stamp you need from this post. It is not cheap but the company I used about 30 years ago is still in business. (Superior Steel Stamp Co. Cleveland, OH.). Jay has provided the height (1/4") and from the posts above all numbers from 0-9 have been provided. All you need to do is copy these posts (gives correct font) . The stamp company can replicate these #'s and the A exactly . I know they can provide the individual #'s and a holder and maybe provide a single use stamp made from one block of steel? The additional info you will need (maybe Jay can provide measurement) is the overall length of the serial # and the distance between the "A" and the first number. Again, won't be cheap but it can be done. Bill
  9. DB26 Had a thought regarding the wire you found in the water jacket. Have you determined if it is steel or perhaps a "sacrificial metal" that someone put there as an anode?
  10. Jay, great data! The first page is a bit generic while the second page fills in some of the gaps. Page one says The C motor gets the air cleaner (what I always thought) but the second page shows "all engines" getting the air cleaner in June on the B engine. Page one shows the C motor coming in at about 6000 vehicles into the '27 series. Page 2 says there was overlap to car # A-762,525. I think both of these issues resolve Wheelmangs' concerns. His '27 series could have a B motor with an air cleaner. Thanks for the info, Bill
  11. Wheelmang, per the published chart The 1927 series started on July 1, 1926 with car # A-702,243. so you car is a '27 series, as is mine A-770,913. What I don't know and have never seen is the actual dates when DB changed from A to B to C motors. I'm far from the last word on the subject but my opinion is your engine is correct to the car and the spread between VIN and engine# is within the 50-70k range. I always thought the " Air Cleaner" 1st came on C motors but your car (& engine) might be real close to the change over to the C so maybe late B motors had the new set up?? Can't remember if you pulled your pan but B motors have three bearings, C motors have five.
  12. DB26, Based on your exhaust manifold it would appear you have a "B" motor (1st version of the 6v 2 unit) that came out in 1926. Later in 1926 the 2nd version was the "C" motor as shown by Wheelmang. His is the same as mine which was built 9/11/26 (a '27 series). The 'lump" on the side of your exhaust mani is the "Carb. Hot Air Stove" which appears to have a hole at the bottom front where an pipe elbow would connect and enter the hole between the valve covers. You will notice that Wheelmangs does the same thing but uses the later C motor hot air stove/air cleaner combo and a Y pipe. The question is do you have a "B" motor? Or did someone in the past change exhaust manifolds?
  13. Moose, You may remember from prior posts that our '27 p/u's are within 10k units or 10/11 days of each other. I was also missing the spare tire carrier (which mounts under the back of the truck and I believe unique to to the commercial car models. I found one on ebay awhile back ,lucky as I believe they are quite rare. I have attached a pic I received from the seller before he removed it from his '27 (he turned it into a hot rod). You may be able to make one. Bill
  14. Mike, I wish ! Problem is I need to build another garage first.
  15. Hi Mike, Great pic. I have the Dodge Bros. sign, the Texaco sign and the tanker body (but shorter) that is on the tanker in the foreground. One of these days I'll finish my DB Texaco tanker. Bill
  16. I was thinking the same thing, i.e. could the 1st # be a 9? Also , would a "C" motor bolt up using "D" motor mounts?
  17. Jan, Your serial # indicates a build date of Oct. 6, 1926. Robert b identified your vehicle as a model 124. From what I've read the model 124 went into production in Mid-1927 ??
  18. Jan, I have more questions than answers. First, do you know if the engine you have is original to the car? Second, are you certain that the 2nd # is a 9? I also would say the J should be a # not a letter. I have a "1927 series" built 9/11/26....serial # A 770,913 which has its original engine ....C 842-314. Early 20's the engine # was approx 50k higher than the car (serial) #. By late 1926 it was about 70K. If your engine is indeed original that would put your serial # around A 750xxx with a build date in August 1926, making the 9 questionable as the serial # would have to be either A 690xxx or A 790xxx both in my opinion not compatible with that engine #. I am by no means the last word on the subject ,only my opinion based on my vehicle and several others with DB's with similar build dates and # ranges. Bill
  19. Matthew, Is the A 554254 (early March 1926 build) your title #? I can't read the other #, but if it is after 7/1/25 it would also be a 1926 Series. My understanding is that the original VIN would appear on the frame (as you show) and on a toe board plate affixed to the interior floor (toe) board and not stamped on the body. If like CT . your state likes to see two places on the car with the same Vin. then maybe someone stamped the body ? (no toe board data plate?)
  20. Yep...yours is a '27 (series). I had to climb over some stuff to get to it but I just re-read my #. I recorded it wrong 4 years ago. Thought it was 20404. Turns out the 0's were stamped lightly and upon a closer look are both 9's. My # is 29494. Actually a little after yours.But in the same period. Remember the "Commercial Cars" are on the passenger frame and the VIN's are in sequence. So the 10K vehicles between our two trucks was mostly cars.
  21. Yes the wheels are 21" which are correct. I missed that yours are 24" which I believe are correct for earlier years ('25?). Your frame # would be 21" so who knows? I would check your Budd Body # to see if its before or after mine. My truck was restored by someone in Pa (originally titled there) about 15 years ago. The roof was redone and maybe not 100% correct. The over hang appears correct as it has an original metal piece above the windshield that juts out supporting the overhang.Most screensides I've seen have it.Pick ups?? The bed was redone in wood, not a bad job but I was going to replace it. I found a 1920's three compartment tanker body so its going to be a small Texaco tanker.....when I get around to it. Bill
  22. Moose, Your frame and engine #'s show your truck to be a 1926 build ('27 series). My truck is kind of in storage so new pics are a problem. I could only find one pic on my computer and have tried to attach (not sure it worked...never done it before).Anyway it would appear your cab is the same as mine. Not sure there was a difference between '25 and '26 built cabs...my guess they are the same.My guess is your '51 reg was for a different truck as the frame # clearly shows its a '26 (27 series). Mine was titled as a 1927 but I have seen several with VIN's after mine (in your range or after) that were titled as 1926 models. Guess it depends upon the State,etc. One thing you could check is the Budd Body tag on the firewall. I'm not aware of ant lists which recorded the Budd #'s but I have to believe they would be in sequence.My truck was built approx 10k before yours and carries Budd Body # 20404. What is yours? If its after that I'd say your cab is also original to the chassis/engine. As for you spark control rod...it should go behind the engine to the right side. A late '27 (D motor?) would have a different distributor position and spark control set up.
  23. Hello Moose, I seemed to have missed this thread from the beginning. Anyway, I have the identical truck (actually "Commercial Car"). I believe yours is totally original and correct (there always seems to be a question concerning screenside vs p/u configurations). Yours ,A780xxx was built approx. 9/21/26 ('27 series). Mine ,A770xxx was built approx. 9/10/26. Our engines C864-xxx and C842-xxx are within perfect range. Commercial cars have a heavier transmission with reverse up to the left.....yours is correct. The only difference I can see between our two trucks is the back of the cabs. Yours is enclosed with a small window and mine is open with a roll up flap. Both have the bracket loops on the side of the cab just behind the doors on each side which were for the screen attachment on the screenside trucks.My guess is all the DB cabs had them . The question is did they start off as pickups or screensides? Mine was originally titled as an "Express"....??? Bill
  24. High A-400's would be a " '26 Series" but built in late '25. So it could have been registered as either a '25 or '26 depending upon the State (I guess). I have a '27 Series (high A-700's) built in Sept '26. Have seen more vehicles built after mine (still in '26) that were registered as '26 models rather than '27's......so who knows?
  25. I have a 27 series (Sept. '26) "commercial car" (3/4 ton ). It has a heavier transmission (with no lock) than passenger cars .Consulting the Mechanics' Instruction Manual it appears that was the case until car # A875-380 (about March 1927) when cars received the same trans. as commercial cars. Bill
×
×
  • Create New...