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Need advice on buying a wood bandsaw


RansomEli

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Hey guys,

Need to do some woodwork and want to buy a bandsaw. I see models going from $150 to $2500. I'd like to stay under $300. Can you recommend a model to buy? How do Harbor Freight, Craftsman, Ryobi and Skil compare?

Thanks in advance.

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Guest BobD735

Hi,

Received my Craftsman 12 inch bandsaw, Model 113.24200, as a birthday present, from my wife, 40 years ago. It cost new, $196.98, which included the stand. Other than replacing blades, and a couple of worn rubber tires, the 1/2 horsepower machine, has performed faithfully. I use it daily, in the restoration of the wooden body members of my 1920's Chalmers automobiles, as well as all of my many other woodworking projects.

Wish I could help you more Ransome Eli, but as you can see, I've gotten way out of touch with what's out there now.

Wish you all the best, in finding what you need, for what you have to do.

Regards,

Bob

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Avoid Harbor Freight and Craftsman. Ryobi may be okay in the right model but don't try to go low end as you will be cutting two and three inches of hardwood. I would look for a professional model from say a cabinet shop going out of business. If that fails I would not spend less than five or six hundred dollars.

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How deep a throat do you need,,I think this would be priority,,

Is it a short job,,or ongoing,,

Might be cheeper if a one time thing,,

If it was light in weight,,you could make a C shape frame as a JIG saw

I saw a frame that had a 5 ft throat,,home made for a special job,,that

no one else wanted to do,,neat trick,,

Hope this helps,,Cheers,Ben

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You haven't given near enough info. What type of wood work do you want it for. A POS HF saw might be fine for very limited use on thin soft woods. Contour or re-sawing hard woods or using the saw on more than a very occasional basis, not so much. Under $300 is a tall order unless you will be happy with a POS that will frustrate more than satisfy.

If you up your budget to the $1000-1500 range you should be able to find a used DoAll saw in fair condition. Most are variable speed that range from 100 to 5000 SFPM. That means it will cut, with the proper blade, pretty much any material you can fit on the table from foam rubber to tool steel. Most have 3 phase motors so you most likely would need to re-motor the saw but that is easily done.

I picked up a very nice 16" DoAll on EBay for $300. I had to drive 4 hours and it needed a lot of TLC but it was basicly sound needing nothing major. I use it at least a couple of times a week for something or other. And I have used it to cut foam, plastic, tool steel and everything in between.................Bob

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I agree with Bhigdog Bob, having some more info would be helpful on what you intend this band saw to perform. I have a floor mount Craftsman from the early 80's vintage that has a 12 inch throat and I also bought the speed reducing unit for cutting metal. It has a cast iron frame which is durable enough for the hobbist. Something not mentioned here is how much space do you have to store this saw. Suggest having it on casters to roll around the shop, especially if the peices to be cut are long and require special manuevering. Generic rolling caster platforms are available from several woodworking suppliers, if the unit you decide on doesn't already have casters. Also consider the blades, have an assortment of 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 inch blades with various teeth per inch (TPI) on hand for the task at hand. Pay attention to the 1) upper and lower allignment blocks, 2) tension for the blade being used, and squareness of the table to the blade. I would suggest looking for a used saw from someone who is moving (craigslist or ebay seller that is close). Is there a wood working shop in your area, and if so, put the word out, someone may have one in their shop that may sell. You have a choice of bench or floor mounted models, all depends on the size and versatility you need.

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I am a recovering tool hound.

That being said, if you "need to do some woodworking," I would seriously seek out someone to do it for you. Chances are a professional or talented friend will cost less money than investing in a decent bandsaw. Plus, there is a serious learning curve with possible trips to the ER involved.

It is a lesson I have been reluctant to learn. But I am working on it.

After I removed a wart with a soldering iron and a can of compressed air a few months ago, I decided my DIY adventures had gone too far. Although, I have always meant to have my appendix removed. . . . how hard could that be?

Edited by Dwight Romberger (see edit history)
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Thanks for all the advice. I want to build a body for my 1908 REO 1 cyl. I also want to build a 1913 speedster body for another project. I don't want to pay someone else - I'd rather slog through the process myself.

From all the advice, I think I'll start looking for a good, older model,,

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Thanks for all the advice. I want to build a body for my 1908 REO 1 cyl. I also want to build a 1913 speedster body for another project. I don't want to pay someone else - I'd rather slog through the process myself.

From all the advice, I think I'll start looking for a good, older model,,

Most high school systems back in the day had 'Shop'. For that class they almost always had a couple of 14" Delta bandsaws or equivalent. Unfortunately a lot of schools don't have 'Shop' anymore and hence those bandsaws were sold. If you look around your area you should find a store that resells used equipment and will have multiple bandsaws to choose from... most with a warranty. Check the bearings on the wheels and main shaft (where the power is applied) and make sure isn't excessive play. You can change the bearings but you should be able to find one with good bearings. In my opinion, refurbishing older equipment is much better than buying the cheap stuff today. It certainly has turned out very, very good for me. It can be a good bit of work, but then doing said work enables you to really understand how the tool performs and how to get the most out of it.

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