Guest chrishanlon Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hi everyone - I thought I could pass along a helpful hint. If you are like me you do not like taking apart a car and the putting rusty parts back in it. About a year ago I bought a $70 gallon of chassis saver paint. Good product, but I found coverage terrible and cost per foot completely insane. Two weeks ago I ripped out the seats in my 52 Hornet to paint the floor. For the heck of it I went to my local farm store to see what they might have. They carried four colors of the rustoleum contractor grade - black, red, orange and brown. I bought a gallon of black for $29. This product is crazy good and the coverage is incredible. I ended up painting the seat frames too. The stuff absolutely will not scratch. I tried to do so with a screwdriver. I literally could not even make a scratch mark. After the project I tried to find out why I had not heard of it before. Nearly impossible to find data on it and it is not carried in any major retailer. The only thing I can figure is that it would completely end the 3.99 quart business they have. Anyway - thought you guys might appreciate a good tip - and, no, I don't work for rustolem or a farm store - haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Chris, do you have a part number, or maybe a picture of the can? I went to the Rustoleum site and couldn't find a Contractor Grade. There are Commercial Rustoleum paints, Industrial paints, and Hi Performance paints.......didn't know Rustoleum made so many different types of paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chrishanlon Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Hi all - it is "high performance protective enamel" - the can was stamped, manually, "contractor" sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Did you use any kind of primer or just used the Rustoleum on bare metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chrishanlon Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Bare metal prepped with a wire brush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Chris, Would that store you bought it at be Tractor Supply? Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vacabill Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) Chris, Would that store you bought it at be Tractor Supply? Howard DennisWal Mart has it online for 27.88. They may have it, in the store. My local tractor supply didn't have it Edited July 13, 2013 by vacabill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chrishanlon Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 It was in a local farm store in ETOWN pa. Happy to post number if anyone needs it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 It was in a local farm store in ETOWN pa. Happy to post number if anyone needs it. Could you post the part # and exactly what they call it so I get the same product? Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Are you referring to this stuff?Rust-Oleum Professional 1-Gal. Flat Rusty High-Performance Metal Primer-182769 at The Home DepotNot necessarily the color, but the specific type of paint?I have found this stuff at my local Home Depot in several colors. The local farm/tractor store has it, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard1 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Rustoleum suggests a primer firsthttp://http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/high-performance-protective-enamel/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Saw that, also oil based I have used some of their other "Professional" Series and have been very happy with them. Nice smooth coat, covers well, and holds up to abuse. Well so far anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Actually looking at it, on the 1930 i was working on I had used the Rust Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spray, Gloss Black, as well as the Satin Black. I really liked the way it Sprayed, and the fact that I could holdthe can upside down and still get a good even spray & coat !! Plus the Cans are a little larger so you get mor paint No problems with it sticking to the surface and staying put !!Of Course I used it over the Rust Oleum Professional Series Primer !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My27ChryslerModel50 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 (edited) I have nothing but high praise for Rust-oleum paints..The large color assortment and finishes are perfect for us car restorers.... Ive used many of there spray paints on various restoration project and its allways exceeded my expectations! The only thing I recommend to all is to prep the area clean wipe with a tack cloth and let the paint dry thoroughly. Rust-oleum paints tend to take longer to dry so give it a few days to harden.. Edited August 18, 2013 by My27ChryslerModel50 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I brush painted my 1931 with Indian Red Rustoleum when I was 15 years old and it is still holding up after 45 years...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 I used another "well-known" universally available product on my truck frame - body parts before that - guess I should've known better!!! - a total waste of time, money and effort! Use the RustOleum. I have a stockpile of Hard Hat Spray Bombs! Haven't used them yet. 'Nuff said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 I used Rustoleum primer and paint on my Model A Ford chassis in 1965 and it still looks good. The gloss is gone but it looks proper in satin, and it hasn't peeled or flaked off. I used the primer on the body then also and the last time it was painted it about wouldn't come off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburn653 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Car in my Avitar was painted with Rustoleum gloss white and OSHA safety orange in 2005, as a "joke". Well, it's held up so good that I don't plan on repainting properly until it needs it... at this rate, another 20+ years. Touch ups are a cinch too! Sanded to bare metal, used bare metal primer (multiple coats, sanding between each) then 6 layers of top coat (cheap foam brushes). I wet sanded with 1200 grit and polished a few spots. Not a show car, but presentable (ask Curt). Total cost of $250 for paint, brushes, sandpaper, primer, masking tape, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Well, if I'd have used RustOleum on my '36 Sedan forty years ago; I wouldn't be looking at tin worm repairs now! Too soon old - too late smart, I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom colarusso Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I painted my Olds with 8cans of rustoleum last winter just to keep it sealed, It still looks good and the car has been outside all year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I spent a few years painting cars and I have to say the only place I would use Rustoleum is on undercarriages or interior parts like seat frames. It is an air dry enamel with no hardner and some day if you guys have to strip one of those paint jobs you will find out why I don't like it. If you have to sand it down, be prepared to strip the car back to bare metal because that's usually where you're going to end up. Maybe you'll be happy putting another coat of Rustoleum on it if it's working for you, but it's going to be a serious PIA to take that vehicle back to a proper automotive finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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