BearsFan315 Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 finally got in my 2 copper crush washers i have been waiting for. these are for the 2 screws that hold in the dipper distribution blocks/tubes. installed them and now the bottom end oil feed is complete, only oil feed left is the line that runs from the oil distributor valve to the rocker arms. i will install that once i flip it over and get the head set & installed. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 now that the bottom end is done, oil feed lines and Oil Distribution valve & Oil Pump in place, oil pan gasket installed and seated. Time to flip it over and start on the top half. When Flipping it over I used both my Engine Stand & Engine Lift. Wanted to ensure that if it slipped in the stand the Engine Lift would have it Slow and steady wins the race. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 19, 2021 Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 i placed it on my Wooden stand i made years ago. prepping for the head install, i bought 4x .500-13 UNC bolts 6.00" long and cut off the heads and the cut in a slot for guide pins, per the manual this makes installing the gasket and head a lot easier and prevents sliding of the gasket. I did a test and the gasket can only go on in one direction, so can not put it on backwards or upside down. I went with 6.00" long bolts as i knew that they had to be longer than the head is deep or i would not be able to get them back out Was wondering should i spray/coat the head gasket with Copper Gasket spray for extra security ? i know this is a common practice, but is it worth it ?? note pins were randomly installed just for test purposes, they have been relocated and set per the Repair Manual guidelines. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 Got the Guide Pins in the designated holes per the Repair Manual. cleaned up the block deck and head surface. then cleaned up the copper gasket and put a coat of copper gasket spray on it and let it dry. then dropped the gasket on the block, then placed the head on the gasket, and put in the NEW head bolts. tightened them in stages per Manual in proper order Head is on and secured in place... you can see that the 6.00" long guide pins were perfect for this application, pretty tall head on this 194 !! top down of block cleaned up and guide pins set top down with head in place side view head in place, can see the guide pins head installed and torqued in place 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 thought i took a shot of the copper gasket installed, before the head ? not going back now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 Looking great Jerry. I always use the copper spray especially on these old engines with low torque values. I’m still waiting on the 30’ engine to get done. Really aggravating. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 7 hours ago, chistech said: Looking great Jerry. I always use the copper spray especially on these old engines with low torque values. I’m still waiting on the 30’ engine to get done. Really aggravating. Thanks Ted, my 3 month project took almost 16 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Share Posted July 21, 2021 this morning, before work I chased the threads on the push rod studs, and then installed the oil return tube, from the head o the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Share Posted July 21, 2021 while doing this, i noticed marking on the block i have not seen before... this is on the passenger side/push rod, between the distributor mount & the fuel pump mount. looks to be "10E" any clue to what this is or means ?? considering it stayed on after cleaning and going through the engine tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 25, 2021 Author Share Posted July 25, 2021 Ran the Rocker arm feedline, new copper tubing from the Oil Distributor Valve to the head, through the block. ran it long so that once i get the rocker arms in place I can cut it to length and install the connector that fits into the rocker arms. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 25, 2021 Author Share Posted July 25, 2021 then was time to oil up and drop in the tappets... i had stored them in a bag with a light coat of oil. then drop in the push rods 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 26, 2021 Author Share Posted July 26, 2021 well a suggestion from a few of the guys over on VCCA, they recommended putting a bend or low spot in the tubing and/or putting a copper feed wire on the line. the goal is to keep any oil that may run down the tube from going back through the other side and making a mess. so i ventured into both worlds. another suggestion was to wrap some copper wire around the tube near the top to prevent the tube nut from falling into the rocker arm cavity if you ever loosened it and it slipped through the opening, which would require you to remove the push rod cover and installing a new gasket possibly. the bends came out nicely, will have to clean up the tube a little, and not sure IF i will keep the nut catcher on the top section or not. may have to mentally remind myself ot keep the nut from slipping through if i ever remove the rocker arm anytime down the road. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 You must be getting pretty excited knowing you’ll have the old girl on the road soon! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 well took a week off and spent some time with the kids and grandkid... nice to get away and relax some Now back to work on the engine, i was NOT content with the feed tube i installed, so it got removed and a new one put in. Yeah i am picky, no Ted, not that picky 😛 i am happy with the new feed tube, will have to get some pictures. started test fitting the push rod cover and the valve cover. debate is should i assemble then paint it as an assembly with the covers on ? or do like i did last time and paint the block and covers independently and then assemble ? i know that from the factory they assembled then painted ?!? hoping to have it close if not ready to paint this weekend. will need a few days of warm sunny weather to paint it. Part of test fitting the covers was to make sure they are flat as well as trying to knock out and remove any dents, dings, they may have to make them look nicer. not doing a show car restoration, doing a daily driver restoration, BUT putting in the time while I'm at it to make it look NICE! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 (edited) Painting the engine when it’s altogether will give you less leaks. The paint help seal the edges of the cork gaskets and prevents them from weeping oil. Done it both ways and painting assembled has always been better. I do paint a lot of the components first then scuff them with a red pad. I will then completely assemble the motor, wipe everything down with Prepsol, then paint the motor. Found this to be the best way. Of course, I’m picky though!😁 Edited August 12, 2021 by chistech (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share Posted August 14, 2021 (edited) Well today i starting working on the Push Rod Cover. cleaned up mating surfaces, did a few test fits, and made sure the cover fits flush with the gasket installed. I made some custom spaces from small tubing/pipe that will keep the cover rom caving in IF you tighten it up too tight. i also used boned/sealing washers with the rubber side to the cover. i allowed enough space to tighten the cover snugly and not cave it in. it holds the cover flush against the engine block & head. I also put a bead of Permatex 2 on the gasket to help seal it and prevent leaks. The cover will be painted when i paint the engine as an assembly. Next up will be the valve cover, as it sits over//on the push rod cover Edited August 15, 2021 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 Flash Back... here are a few shots of the NEWer Rocker Arm Oil Feed Line. the tube comes from the Oil Distribution Valve, and rises, then slopes down slightly through the block into the other side, then does a drop the 90+ degree back up, this side is shaped similar to a pee trap in a sink drain. i did this so that if oil gets on the line that the low point will be the lower section and it can drip then run and drain back to the oil pan. did not want it to weep over to the manifold side and have it dripping there. i did test it out with my oil can, slowly put drops of oil random places on the line and then watched it till it dripped. seemed to work, so i am happy with this configuration. I bent the tubing on the bench bend by bend fitting after each bend on the engine using my tube bender 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 (edited) In regards to the leak issues, and slope of the block around the tappets and drain back hole. here are some head on shots, where you can see that at least on my 1929 block that each side, slopes away from the cylinders as well as each side slopes down towards the drain back hole that goes to the oil pan. this is why some have oil leaks on the push rod cover. the oil drains towards the cover in the center of each side, and may puddle or weep through the gasket, especially cork. my way to help lessen the leak is to use Permatex No2 along the bottom edge of hte block and push rod cover (both sides of the gasket) and then partially up the sides (typically to the head gasket line). yeah it makes it a pain and destroys hte gasket IF you ever have to remove it, but how often are you removing the push rod cover ?? You could just Permatex one side of the gasket to the cover itself and that may help a ton as well, then if you ever need to remove the cover the gasket will be preserved and can be reinstalled, as it is glued to the cover not the block. you can see the slight slop towards the drain back hole in the center between rod 3 & 4from the left same for the right side Edited August 17, 2021 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 ok, so now about the spacers and washers i used behind the push rod cover. i used a piece of steel spacer, just large enough to go over the 3/8 studs and provide a solid backing for the washers. i cut the steel spacer to length after doing some math. there are 2 shorts pieces, and then one longer piece. these are the sizes that worked for mine, may not work for your, have to test and tweak to your application. they are 3/8 bonded sealing washers from the local hardware store. I put them in my vise and then pressed them flat to remove the cone out of the washers. you can cut the sleeves shorter to accommodate the washers if so desire, i wanted maximum rubber against the back of hte cover and no chance of the metal roughing it up or working a hole in the cover. then installed the spacers on the studs, and slid on a washer, then the cover goes on. I like how this works out and gives support to the center of the cover as well as keep you from over tightening and pushing the center of hte cover in and popping the gasket seal. This method worked for me previously in vastly reducing/preventing oil seepage from the push rod cover so doing it again on the rebuild. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 15, 2021 Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Well been busy with other things around the house and yard, but got the engine ready for paint, masked off a few places and items, and a few more things to do before paint. plan to get it on the engine stand, clean it up and paint it this weekend if the weather cooperates. getting close to paint. then final assembly and then install !! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 (edited) Been a little slow on the restoration and rebuild of my 1929 Engine, finally was able to find a good paint prep cleaner and a good 2 day window of weather. forecast was for mostly sunny weekend with temps around 85. since i have the car in the garage i will have to paint in the driveway. Got up Saturday morning, was a little overcast but no rain in forecast. started prepping driveway for painting, and realized the sun was beating down and making everything including me HOT. so i drug out my 10x10 pup up tent and used it to shade my paint area. Rolled out the engine and then did my cleaning & prep. used a waterborne cleaner first, then onto a solvent cleaner. wore gloves and did not touch. then masked off the engine stand to keep it red, since it is borrowed from a friend this also allowed time for the cleaners to dry out completely. Edited September 20, 2021 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 applied 2 light coats of Self Etch Primer, mainly to the block and bare cast iron parts. i was also painting the intake manifold and the flywheel cover. this was rattle can primer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 next up was to apply the Chevrolet Gray. This was a pint i purchased from The Filling Station mixed my PPG. was spraying with my HVLP, which i have never sprayed with before. so did some practicing with thinner, working on fan, feed, etc. and got it to a comfortable fan spray. then onto paint. total nightmare. it wanted to splotched out and splatter. no matter what i did. i finally got it to spray decent out of the gun and away we went. 2 light coats spacing between per instructions. allowed it to sit and dry for a few hours, and then looking at it the cast iron looked great, but the sheet metal covers and parts had horrible orange peel. so I cleaned it up and put it away and for the night. Sunday Morning got up and went out and did a light sanding on the orange peel on the metal, and then cleaned as before. did a once over on the engine and used a sticky to mark light spots for touch up. Broke out the HVLP and tried again. tinkering with the gun and air and paint feed and fan spread I got it to spray clean, neat, and evenly. I applied 2 light coats on the engine over the sheet metal and touched up a few light spot, spacing the coats as per directions. looked a million times better, so sit aside to let it dry. few hours later went to look it over and it looks good, so cleaned up and drug it bag into the garage to cure. in a few days or so will start to bolt on the accessories and then the transmission and get ready to drop it in the car. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 went out this morning and started to remove the masking... starting to look more like an engine every day !! I know the color scheme is NOT 100% correct, but it is what i like and what i am doing for my car. all the bolt on items, minus the Intake Manifold will be black i love the contrast. And i only SHOW my car to share it not to get points or trophies. i love it i enjoy it i drive it. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 BearsFan315, color looks great to me. Beautiful work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 in rebuilding the engine on my 1929 only problem i have had was finding someone to resurface the pressure plate. everyone i went to said they could not do it, and offered a few options. last week i called a local engine machine shop and talk to the buy about resurfacing it, and he asked about it, and said are those the old school pressure plates with the springs ? i said yes, he said that is the problem, can not machine them because the springs would cause it to walk and bounce around and get a crappy surface. then it hit me, i asked him what if i took it apart and brought just the plate, he laughed and said oh yeah should not be a problem. asked me to bring it by and let him look at it. so the next morning stopped by and talked to him, and he said no problem, give me a few hours and i'll have it ready for you. so went by at lunch and bamm all done and ready. looks great. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 so when i got home that evening, rebuilt and put the pressure plate assembly back together. it is now ready to be installed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 bolted on the water pump with new gasket, this is the NEW style water pump with bearing and NO packing. looks like the original without the maintenance \ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 about to the point of dropping then engine onto my build stand and start bolting on the transmission components. then time to install into the car !! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 last night got motivated and decided to transfer the engine from the engine stand to by building stand. this stand i built a while back for building this engine along with the transmission and associated parts. also the stand i use when i pull the driveline from the car. holds it all and supports it nicely. i put it on a large Harbor Freight furniture dolly so i can roll it around, spin it, etc. plus i use my stool and roll around. Stand has a transmission support that i drop in when i bolt on the transmission to support the cantilever load. Engine Stand with Transmission Support in place 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 first thing was to install a new transmission pilot bushing. cleaned out the hole, put a light coat of grease on the new bushing, and then lined & squared it up and gently pressed it in. went in nice and easy. used a 9/16 deep well socket to ensure it was properly and fully seated 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 next up was to install the cast transmission/engine support housing. this bolts on to the back of the engine and serves as the 2 rear mounting points for the driveline. the transmission bolts on to this and is basically cantilevered. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 next up was the flywheel this is one heavy beast, trying to hold it in place, line up the pin with the hole, and then seat it on the end of hte crankshaft so that you can get a screw started. got it done and it is one and secured !! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 next is hte fun part, installing the clutch (New C&P Automotive/Billy Possum) and the pressure plate. luckily Chevrolet used a standard spline clutch for so long that you can pick up a clutch alignment tool for a few dollars from almost any parts store, i just happen to have one on hand from a previous installation. this tool helps line up and center your clutch plate. with out it you will have a fun time when you go to install the transmission and line up everything to get the transmission shaft all the way into the pilot bushing. it is fun enough trying to line up the pressure plate, which is no lightweight. have to hold it up and line up the key seats and make sure that the bolt holes line up as well. 3 options, and usually is the third one that lines everything up. once lined up install a few screws to hold it in place, then install the remaining, then torque them all down. granted the clutch disc typically will not moved since it is pressed into place, i like to leave the clutch tool in place till i go to put on the transmission. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 Looking very nice! Went to the machine shop today and checked on the status of the 30’ motor. They ordered rings and are waiting on them of course. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 29, 2021 Author Share Posted September 29, 2021 well got the transmission mounted and secured last night. all set up and pretty close to installing in the car. will do most of the bolt-ons once it is in the car, easier and less things in the way when installing. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 been waiting for my Manifolds to come back from the machine shop, when I had them machine the mounting surfaces, they did not take them apart and machine the mating surfaces, so I dropped it off to get done. want to make sure all mating surfaces are flat so that I get a good gasket surface for sealing !! I dropped them off 2 1/2 weeks ago on a Wednesday and was told they would be ready by Friday, then by Wednesday, then by Friday, etc... finally called them Wednesday and was given a promise by Friday, I chuckled. Then this morning around 930 got a call they were done and come pick them up. engine is ready to go in but need a solid day clear on my schedule to drop it in, as I have to roll the car out, then set up the engine hoist and engine, roll car partially back in the garage, and then drop it in, and then dance once again to get the car back in the garage. garage is not deep enough to get it done with everything in the garage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 I picked up the 30’ motor today from the machine shop. I’ll be following your footsteps! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 (edited) Got the engine and transmission ready to go back in. before i put it back in, is there anything else that i should check, replace, do before hand ??Engine has been completely machined and rebuilt .030" over,. new pistons, rings, cam reground, crank straight and ground, new babbitt all around, all mating surfaces machined (manifolds, head, block, etc...)Transmission rebuilt with kit, new shafts, gears inspected, new bearings, new replacement front cover with seal.U-Joint rebuilt and greasedNew O-ring & washers in the Mushroom HousingFlywheel & Pressure Plate resurfacedFuel Tank was cleaned out Rear Differential, Inspected and new Gear Oil installedNew Brake Linings on all 6 brakes (4 driving, 2 parking)cross shaft rebuilt and lubed up New wiring harness installed Edited October 20, 2021 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 I have a spool of copper/nickel line that i used to run new fuel lines on the 1930 canopy. i was under the car this morning before work looking it over. simple run along hte fuel rail with a few clamps inline holding it down. should NOT be that hard to run a new line to the front. i know the copper nickel is NOT as flexible as the copper line. only fun part would be going through the hole in the frame rail bracket. will require bending and straitening the line as i pull it and run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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