12V Generator in '55 Buick Special - added radio/SiriusXM

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hi guys,

I've had this Buick for about a year now. Drove it last summer without issues after spending a virtual fortune at the garage for needed repairs 'n such. (Well worth the spend though!)

Near the end of the summer last year I had a radio installed, with a SiriusXM Sat. Again, no issues. There was no wiring for a radio originally, so Mr. Dude who installed the system and speakers had to wire it up from scratch.

Here's where it gets a little strange;

I've been driving Buick this year nearly every weekend without any issues at all. (aside from a gas gauge not working, and a temp gauge not working, which are being replaced this weekend).

Everything works, and works very well. HOWEVER.... the wife noticed last weekend that when we go over 30miles (speed) the radio stops working, but when I slow down, radio comes back on.

Baffled, I tried something - pulled the headlight switch ON so my lights were on and the problem with loss of power to to the radio was gone.

I'm kind of freaking out here because this obviously may cause chuckles to some, but to me all I see are dollar signs and a new generator or a rebuilding of this one.

Can I possibly be pulling too much voltage from the generator just by adding a radio? No amp... just a brand new Sony radio with removable plate, USB and AUX inputs, and the 2 6x9 speakers in little boxes and nothing else. Not even a cigarette lighter.

Is my generator dying?

Should I upgrade to an alternator?

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Todd

[TexasJohn55]

Sounds like you may have some grounding issues. The body is not grounded properly. My fuel guage didn't work until I ran a ground wire from tank sender plate screw to body. Check ground straps from body to frame and engine. TexasJohn

[old-tank]

See your radio installer. That radio may require a stable and 'clean' voltage that may not be possible with the old generator/voltage regulator.

[Joseph P. Indusi]

Along the lines of thinking expressed by old-tank, the voltage output of the generator may be getting too high at 30 MPH and above and this modern radio may have a voltage sensing circuit that shuts down this radio. BY pulling out the light switch you are placing a load on the generator and thereby reducing the voltage somewhat, but enough to keep the radio on. I would suggest that you fully charge the battery, start the engine and run for 10 minutes at road speed. Return to the safety of your driveway, connect a digital voltmeter to the battery and with the engine revving around 2000 RPM check to see the voltage at the battery. A reading of 13.8 to 14 is about right. If you are seeing over 14 volts this is likely too high. A tell-tale sign of excessively high charging voltage is if you need to add water to your battery frequently.

Bon Chance.

Joe, BCA 33493

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Sounds like you may have some grounding issues. The body is not grounded properly. My fuel guage didn't work until I ran a ground wire from tank sender plate screw to body. Check ground straps from body to frame and engine. TexasJohn

I agree!! Grounding problem.

Ben

[TexasJohn55]

I think Willie and Joe both have valid points and suggestions. If voltage is indeed running too high, it seems that poor connections or high resistance connections anywhere might cause the regulator to run high OR just a bad regulator. I just thought it was prudent to consider grounds also because of guage issues. Seems to me, even without any more input, he can fix the problem, assuming he heeds all advice given. TexasJohn

[buick5563]

I agree with what has been said already, so I would check there first.

You shouldn't need an alternator just for the stereo, though. I have an aftermarket stereo in my wagon, and I have installed several newer no-frills units in other cars with generators with no problems.

[60FlatTop]

Try drawing a schematic of the radio circuit from the battery positive post to the negative post. Then make a sketch of the actual route detailing the junctions and connections. You'll probably see the problem right away.

Bernie

Edited May 18, 2013 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Wow guys! Big thanks to all of you who posted replies to this! I hadn't received any email notifications letting me know there were replies so I do apologize if my reply back is late.

Turns out, it was indeed a simple ground issue. In fact, after taking my dash apart to change a gauge cluster (amps, fuel, temp and oil) I found the one of the lightbulbs was broken, but "flickering" on an off when ever I hit a bump. It was kind of just dangling and bouncing around hitting a bare wire to another lightbulb. These is all fixed up now. New gauges work nicely and look even better (newer) than the original I just pulled out.

But...... and this is a frikkin BIG but........ Here's a far more serious issue that occured on a drive earlier today that left me on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere waiting for CAA to come pick us up and take us home;

Gassed up by dropping in 20.00 regular at the local station where I always get gas.

Hopped in and headed out to a l;ittle place the lady and I like to hang out and watch boats in the river while we munch on burgers and fries. But.... We didn't make it today.

Rounding a long stretch corner I felt the Buick bogging.... I let off the gas, turned down the radio so I could hear the engine.... it bogged again.... I hit the pedal and she took off no problem. Then... she bogged again and when I hit the gas, she died.

Luckily, I managed to pull over in front of an empty sugar shack on a lonely stretch of road. Put her in park, tried to start her up and it seems like she's not getting any gas to the carb.

I was there for at least 1.5 hours trying to start her up. It just seems like there's no gas making it to the carburetor. As if the tank is empy. But the tank isn't empty.

Do you think my fuel pump is dead? Here's the clincher - when trying to start the car, NOTHING happens unless I pull the lights on! The hell?? I'm reading through the manual now to get an understanding of how to check the fuel pump. There don't seem to be any leaks of gas anywhere.

Todd

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Try drawing a schematic of the radio circuit from the battery positive post to the negative post. Then make a sketch of the actual route detailing the junctions and connections. You'll probably see the problem right away.

Bernie

Just to add; If I could draw the digram I certainly would. I'll be the first to admit that I'm FAR BEHIND in any mechanical know-how as you cool cats are. I'm admittedly, "learning as I go". Granted, the radio was installed last year professionaly, and I had no issues with it all summer. I tend to drive with the lights on during day anyway, only because here in Quebec, it's "the law" to drive with "daylight running lights", which I don't have.

I'm also wondering now if installing an electric fuel pump may correct the issue as I'm thinking the problem is the ful pump Thoughts? Sorry If I'm posting all over the place. I'm actually really depressed over this now.

Todd

[Bhigdog]

First thing to do is ascertain if it's a fuel or ignition (electrical) problem. Pull the air cleaner and crank the engine for 30-40 seconds. Assuming it didn't start open the choke and peer down the carb whilst pumping the gas (with the key OFF). IF you don't see gas being squirted down the carb throat it's a fuel problem. If you do see gas don't waste time on the pump look at electrical........Bob

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Bob,

Taking your advice, here's what I just did;

- Turned key to ON, cranked for 30 seconds. (man that's a long time for a crankin'!)

- Lights OFF, radio and SAT OFF.

-- No start.

- Removed breather, key OFF, pressed pedal, NO GAS appearing inside carb.

- I then reached in an pulled on the pedal linkage and HEARD gas squirting. Looked inside carb and SAW gas squirting.

- Key ON, cranked engine, she started right up.

- Checked wipers with engine running, they's a working.

- Buick is now idling nicely in my driveway with breather OFF.

I'm a little perplexed here....

The choke on this Buick is really touchy. And, I made a bit worse today by playing around in there while waiting for AAA to show up.

Any thoughts on this? Primed the carb by manually pulling on the accelerator linkage, and then started fine, but when only pressing the gas pedal to prime the carb - no gas?

Todd

Edited May 20, 2013 by BuddyBuick (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Well, you need to see what's happening at the carb when a helper depresses the pedal. Carb linkage may faulty.........Bob.....

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Bob,

Had the little lady pressing the pedal. No gas. But as mentioned, when I yanked on the linkage the carb filled up nicely. I notice the dashpot rubber looks a little deflated. Is that normal? Either way, I shut her off after letting her run for a good 10 mins. Started right back up again though. It's getting dark here now, I'll have a closer look at the linkage tomorrowe after work and let you know what I find.

I really appreciate the advice and tips/suggestions you guys give. This little issue depressed the hell out of me earlier.

Todd

[TexasJohn55]

Todd, You had obviously run the carb dry and luckily cranked long enough to get it primed back up. You likely have a problem sucking air into the fuel stream. You didn't say if you still have the glass sediment bowl behind the carb, if so , was it dry? There are several ways to troubleshoot delivery problem and determine if there is air in fuel or if it vapor locked. First would be a thorough inspection of fuel lines and hoses from pump to tank, look for any wet spots or cracked hoses. If the rubber hose at tank is old, you may have to drop tank to get a good look. There are two options for visually determining it there is air in fuel. One is to use clear hose at suction side of fuel pump and run it. Second is to install a tee and small secondary hose temporarily on the pressure side of pump with a ball valve on the end. make it long enough that you can comfortably submerge it in an open container (bucket) and gently open valve to bleed off some fuel and see if it continues to show air bubbles in bucket. It should clear quickly if not sucking air. Both methods together would be ideal. BE VERY CAREFUL AND HAVE AN EXTINGUISHER HANDY. If you make the bleed line long enough to get out of the engine bay would be safest. If these tests show no air in fuel stream then it may be vapor lock. Don't discount a restricted supply line to tank. A brief shot of compressed air back thru line should clear it and gurgle like mad at the tank. A note about using clear line only, with full carb and minimal fuel flow at idle, you may have to drive it around to get sufficient flow to clear line initally whereas the bleeder would do that instantly. Just some ideas, there may be others equally valid but I like to "eye ball" the problem. Oh! By the way, you still have a grounding problem. Again, check ALL ground straps. The battery grounds to the engine, there must be good straps to the firewall and frame, if in doubt, add one to the firewall and fender well for testing. TexasJohn

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hi TexasJohn,

Yup. The carb was run dry. Initially, while on our drive, the car sputtered and bogged like it was running on empty. Keep in mind, My fuel gague doesn't work as I'm waiting for a new sending unit (eBay purchase should be here this week).

Upon cranking and cranking and cranking, I was too daft to even do the check that Bob had pointed out above (look inside the carb for gas entering) and chalked it up to a pump issue. (That's me, the guy who panics all too often!), but after doing what Bob suggested, she fired up.

The little glass bowl you're referring to, I've read other posts where folks are talking about this little glass bowl - oddly, I don't have one. I have the Carter 2bb carb, and not even a fuel filter anywhere. Something I'd like to add and soon.

I'm printing out your suggestions and tips if you don't mind. I'm a stranger to vapor lock, but have read about it recently.

My concern is this seems to be a problem that'll happen again, and I don't really want to be far from home (like we were today) when it happens again, or in traffic somewhere. I'm a little guy ad had to push this Buick off to the side today. Thank god it was an isolated place!

Just a question - do you think a faulty sending unit could contribute to something like this? I know mine is faulty because even with 3/4 tank of gas the needle is always just above "E". I just installed a new gauge cluseter yesterday as well, the gauge for gas is prodicing the same level result as the previous one.

Todd

[TexasJohn55]

Oh! By the way, you still have a grounding problem. Again, check ALL ground straps. The battery grounds to the engine, there must be good straps to the firewall and frame, if in doubt, add one to the firewall and fender well for testing. TexasJohn I don't think the sender itself could cause it but cracked or broken pickup tube could.

[JohnD1956]

Todd, can you clear up a few things indicated in your threads for us?

In post # 9, can you go into more detail what you meant by this " Do you think my fuel pump is dead? Here's the clincher - when trying to start the car, NOTHING happens unless I pull the lights on! "

Then in post #14 you said :"Had the little lady pressing the pedal. No gas. But as mentioned, when I yanked on the linkage the carb filled up nicely". May I ask if you still have the gas pedal start hooked up or are you using a separate starter button located on the interior somehwre to actually crank the starter?

Also regarding your gas tank sender unit, can you tell us if the fuel line is connected to the gas tank sender unit by a metal coupling, or a short piece of rubber hose?

Lastly, can you post a picture of the engine showing the area on top where the fuel line runs from the fuel pump to the carb?

Thanks

[buick5563]

I'm also wondering now if installing an electric fuel pump may correct the issue as I'm thinking the problem is the fuel pump Thoughts?

Yes.

Sorry If I'm posting all over the place. I'm actually really depressed over this now.

Todd

Don't be. We have all been there.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Oh! By the way, you still have a grounding problem. Again, check ALL ground straps. The battery grounds to the engine, there must be good straps to the firewall and frame, if in doubt, add one to the firewall and fender well for testing. TexasJohn I don't think the sender itself could cause it but cracked or broken pickup tube could.

Ok, I'm thinking having the radio installed was a bad idea. This car was never equipped with one. but I just had to have 50s tunes playing whilst driving this beast all over the place. I know a few of my lights are not working - the light for the "radio panel" which was just replaced yesterday with a new bulb is still not working even when grounded correctly, and the dome light USED to work, but now doesn't.

I'll take pictures tomorrow after work of all this - it's dark now, and I don't have a good enough light to get out there and take any decent shots for you to see and its raining. :/

Todd

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Todd, can you clear up a few things indicated in your threads for us?

In post # 9, can you go into more detail what you meant by this " Do you think my fuel pump is dead? Here's the clincher - when trying to start the car, NOTHING happens unless I pull the lights on! "

Then in post #14 you said :"Had the little lady pressing the pedal. No gas. But as mentioned, when I yanked on the linkage the carb filled up nicely". May I ask if you still have the gas pedal start hooked up or are you using a separate starter button located on the interior somehwre to actually crank the starter?

Also regarding your gas tank sender unit, can you tell us if the fuel line is connected to the gas tank sender unit by a metal coupling, or a short piece of rubber hose?

Lastly, can you post a picture of the engine showing the area on top where the fuel line runs from the fuel pump to the carb?

Thanks

Sure John. My apologies again I guess I'm only adding to confusion here. But here goes;

Regarding my fuel pump post, I assumed that because the car just died while coasting along nicely at about 70 that the pump just "quit" on me. First thought was - damn... out of gas already? Becasue that's what it "felt" like.

When I got the car home, and saw the reply from Bob, I immediately went out to the driveway with my chick and had her pressing on the gas pedal so I could see if gas was getting into the carb prior to starting. Non gas. But when I pulled on the linkage inside the engine compartment, I heard and saw gas going into the carb. Started the car and she fired right up.

As for the sender unit, I have no idea - yet. but I'll have a look tomorrow after work and post pics of what I see. It's pretty foreign to me. Sorry.

I will definitely post pics of the engine and everything else you feel would help to resolve this.

Todd

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Yes.

Don't be. We have all been there.

Thanks Mike that's greatly appreciated. Also, do you reccommend the Airtex brand fuel pump?

Todd

[buick5563]

Todd,

In my judged 55 with the factory fuel pump, I run a 4-6 lb auxiliary fuel pump. Most likely a Mr. Gasket brand from O'Reillys.

On my wagon, I removed the factory pump altogether. I just installed a Carter 7-9 lb rotary type, which is louder than the Mr. Gasket version I replaced when it went bad (got all clackety and really loud when hot). Admittedly, I have never checked the pressure at the carb since I installed the Carter, but I have driven it approximately 500 miles in the last month with no ill effects (no flooding etc) and I drove at 75 mph yesterday in 90+ degree heat and no vapor lock.

Speaking of the wagon AND getting back to your original question in this thread, last night I had my Kenwood stereo, electric fuel pump, lights and under dash AC unit running. The amp gauge would drop to full discharge at traffic lights, but at highway speed, my stock generator kept up fine. An alternator may still be in the cards for me in the future when I install undercar neon.....

Kidding guys.

Dayum!!!

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hey Mike, I watched little video clip of the instalation of one of these eletric ful pumps. They mention a switch installed as well. This is the Airtex model found here - ( https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=293410&cc=1320017 )

Is the switch absolutely necessary? I'm a little paranoid now about installing anything "electric" as ground issues seem to be haunting me wherever I go so I'm weary about installing anything that requires power. haha.

Todd

[buick5563]

There are two good reasons for a switch. The first, most important reason, is that if there is a problem that involves fire, you can cut off the fuel supply. Your engine would probably die from choking on the smoke, so you would want to have another shutoff than just the key. That is also important. The electrical source needs to be key operated, not just a battery hot lead!

The other reason, is that when it is cooler out you won't need the fuel pump (if used as an auxiliary) all the time. Therefore, you can just use it to "override" the vapor lock for thirty seconds or so. You will probably need it less often in Quebec than let's say Austin, Texas

I mounted a small toggle switch on my driver's side kick panel. You can barely see it for judging purposes.

I guess another paranoid person's reason for the switch especially if you only run the electric fuel pump, would be a theft deterrent. Assuming somebody could figure out that you step on the pedal to start it, the car would only run until the gas in the fuel bowl was used up.

Oh yeah, your car doesn't have the glass filter. It most likely has the "pancake" type right behind the carb. You can disassemble them and blow out the funk with carb cleaner.

Edited May 20, 2013 by buick5563
Spelling (see edit history)

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Mike - Fire, you say? That's good enough reason for me then.

Just an FYI, I went out this morning and started the Buick no problem. Didn't have to touch the choke, didn't have to pump the gas pedal. Turned the key to ON, pressed slowly on the pedal, than to the floor to press the start button, and she fired right up. No issue.

The little "pancake" thing behind the carb, I will have to have a closer look when I get home from work. I'm going to take some pictures of the engine and carb, and underneath so the guys can see stuff they're asking to see. (lines etc).

Thanks!

Todd

[avgwarhawk]

Ok, I'm thinking having the radio installed was a bad idea. This car was never equipped with one. but I just had to have 50s tunes playing whilst driving this beast all over the place. I know a few of my lights are not working - the light for the "radio panel" which was just replaced yesterday with a new bulb is still not working even when grounded correctly, and the dome light USED to work, but now doesn't.

I'll take pictures tomorrow after work of all this - it's dark now, and I don't have a good enough light to get out there and take any decent shots for you to see and its raining. :/

Todd

I installed a $35 radio that plays MP3 music from a thumb drive or SD car. Plus it is a A/M F/M radio. It is mounted under the dash. The dash retains the original radio. The car still runs the generator. I have no issue with the player at any speed. I have over 400 songs from the 40's and 50's on the thumb drive. Anyway, the $35.00 car stereo MP3 player works fine. Your's should as well. The radio should be powered independently. Grounded well.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info. That's the thing - last summer when the radio was installed (this is a sony radio with USB drive and MP3/AUX inputs and CD, wired with a SiriusXM Satelite receiver (for my 50s songs) and was working well all last summer, and even at the start of this season.

I can't think of anything that changed since. I'll have to get under there and take some pictures and post 'em.

Todd

[Guest 54fins]

Modern radios have some pretty cool electronics, but the generator/ voltage reg should keep you within range (11 to 14 volts). As for amps, radios take virtually nothing unless you are an irritating kid with a huge bass booster. But if you can't make it work, run a separate wire from the battery terminals and that should even out the voltage, and ground at the battery. I have always found old cars get finicky about the grounds. I assume you left the original radio, mount it under the dash and do put a fuse in the line just in case you ever get a short. The generator is pretty bombproof but the faster it spins the higher the voltage. The regulator has to play referee and doesn't always work right. The battery itself will act as a voltage regulator. Now the gas- old cars vapor lock pretty easy. The electric booster pump is pretty much mandatory if you get above 90F. Keep in mind, it won't hurt the original pump, leave that one in there. The pancake filter is small and old tanks (pun intended) tend to have 60 years of rust, dirt and varnish in them. The rust will drive you insane, because when the car sits it will losen up. Sounds like the rust game, the car sits and the rust settles. Running, the fuel pressure packs it into the filter and in the carb. An electric pump won't help, you gotta get out all the rust. Here is my suggestion- remove and clean the pancake filter. Leave it out, rig in a see through filter. If any dirt shows up, you will need to get a new gas tank, or have your tank cleaned by a tank shop. Avoid trying to put in sealers- once rust starts, it never stops. Every speck has to be out of the tank- completely.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hey 54fins,

I definitely don't have any subs in this Buick. Just a couple of 6x9s in the back. Nothing fancy. I'm not into the drum n bass stuff. 50s played through an old transistor radio would be good enough for me.

Everyone seems to be pointing to the ground issues. I guess i'll have to have another look for a ground issue. Although, at this point, I'm not even touching the radio until I get this fuel thing sorted out. I'll take the pancake filter off and clean it out for starters though. Mind you, last summer I had the car in the garage getting it tuned up and fixed up, and I mentioned to the guys that the car had sat for 5 years before I got my mits on it. They removed the tank and cleaned it out, and put new gas in it. No issues.

It wasn't until my Sunday drive that this happened. Keep in mind, unlike Texas or Vegas heat, I'm up here in Quebec. Sunday, the temperature was a mild 16 degrees celcius. And the car was running beautifully until it just felt like the tank was empty. Though it wasn't empty.

I did what Bob suggested though, and pumped the gas pedal and checked for gas squirting into the carb. None. But when I pulled on the throttle linkage gas shot in in there and I started her up no problem.

Again this morning, I went out (and it rained all night) and started her up with no problems at all. So I guess this boils down to an intermittant problem.

I don't think vapor lock would affect me up here like it affects you guys down there with all that high n dry heat. ?

Regardless, I'll take anything off and clean it well and or replace if need be.

In a nutshell, the carb was bone dry when this happened. This is what led me to assume my fuel pump died on me. Is it possible the fuel pump just stopped working for that moment, but then somehow just started working again?

Is this the glass bowl filter I should be looking at?

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1955+Buick+fuel+filter&_sacat=0&_from=R40

P.S. the photo in my avatar and in my gallery here was taken last fall. The place where Buick stalled on me is literally right across the other side of the road where that pic was taken. Creepy!

Todd

Edited May 20, 2013 by BuddyBuick (see edit history)

[Guest 54fins]

yes, that's the one! Physically seeing the gas flow will save hours of guessing. If any dirt is seen, time to pull the gas tank. If air bubbles are seen, you can zero in on the fuel pump. It is a simple device, just a diaphragm with 2 flapper valves. The flapper valves can stick open or fail, and the main diaphragm will do like all the rubber parts on the car- eventually deteriorate. You are not in vapor lock country, but the electric booster pump is still prudent. First, gas evaporates so the electric pump can prime your carb and make starts much easier. Then when the fuel pump fails you will still be driving. Also, when the electric pump fails you will have the mechanical pump- reliability! If you go for judging, you can pull the glass filter. as for the stereo, I have had no problems on the generator but I did make my own stereo. On a 55, you have a nice double din slot behind that speaker cover. Most stereos are not too fussy about voltage, but a real new stereo may have a touchy power supply to protect the unit. Run a positive and negative straight from the battery and that should smooth out the voltage changes for your stereo. Those old wires also get flakey.

[buick5563]

That's what I did, them reinstalled the grille. I can remove the grille if necesaary:

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Guys, 54fins and Mike;

I'll definitely grab a fuel filter kit and install it. I can't get parts around here for the Buick, and have been using CARS and eBay primarily.

I took a bunch of pics on my phone - no idea how good they'll look but I'll upload 'em all once I post this response to you both.

54fins - the organge thing in the picture, there's a rubber hose on it as well - what is that?

Your engine looks nice! chrome!? Awesome! My engine is a real mess. It's all original, as you'll see, and hasn't been cleaned up much yet. But that's a project of mine to start this coming weekend.

My buick never had the factory radio. You'll see the chrome plate still there.

Mike - That was a brilliant idea putting the radio behind the little grill! I'll move mine and do the same thing! I'll post my pics and you'll see where mine is now. I'm kind of embarrassed now.

Also, came home from work bout 20 mins ago - started the buick, and she fired right up. let her run 10 mins, shut her off, then when I tried to start her, is seems like the bendix was not moving. My starter was rebuilt last year. But.... here's the funny thing... I pull the lights on and then start the car and she fires up. This is intermittent and it's freaking me out. Ground right?

Todd

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Ok guys, here are the pics.

Don't mind the engine, she's a mess. But she runs nice.

[JohnD1956]

One thing I noticed in your engine compartment photos is that it appears the yellow wire to your coil may be grounding against that manual choke cable when the air cleaner is on and tightened down. It also looks like it could be being pushed by the accelerator linkage which may push it into the air cleaner causing a ground. I also noted no signs of arcing so I am probably wrong about this but I would recommend loosening the coil and spinning it a 1/4 turn in the bracket.

The other thing I would recommend is moving the fuel line up and out of that valley between the head and the intake manifold. You can definitely be impacted by vapor lock which is vaporization of the gasoline in this line due to over heating. That head is hot and the intake is hotter since there is exhaust gas flowing through it with out the benefit of antifreeze coolant. So put a little more distance between the line and the engine parts, and that may eliminate some of the stalling while driving.

As to the starter situation, I do not have any answer. But behind the engine there should be at least one, possibly two thin braided ground straps that go from the engine to the body of the car. Check to see if they are there and if so, clean up the ends where they make contact with the body of the car. These are mostly unnoticeable but they provide the ground circuit for the body to engine if your battery negative cable is hooked to the extra hole on the drivers side motor mount, like it is in my 56.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

John,

Thanks for these observations. The yellow wire I only noticed on Sunday when I got the car home and poked around the engine compartment a bit. I'll definitely take care of that. I checked it, and the connection has actually begun to fray a bit, so I'll solder it, then cap it off.

I just checked, and sure enough, the breather is pushing on it.

The choke is something I managed to adjust a bit, but now that you mention these things, I'm thinkling it may be best to try rerouting the choke cable a few inches away from that area. The choke cable and choke has always been finicky.

With respect to the fuel line, I know which one you're talking about - what would you suggest I do in order to accomplish this? Replace the entire line? Can this line replaced with a rubber one?

I'll check those ground straps too. But I'll have to do that tomorrow. I really appreciate all these suggestions and advice guys. Wow. No joke you guys rock.

Thanks very much, John.

Todd

[JohnD1956]

You're very welcome Todd. Glad to be of any help. As far as that fuel line, it is cheap enough to run a new one, and that way you can save the old one for a template if you ever need it in the future. I saw 54 Fins has run a rubber fuel line outside of the valve cover and up to the carb filter. That is an option I had not seen before but it has a lot of merit for driveability concerns. Still If that line ever leaked or ruptured it would send gas directly onto hot exhaust manifolds and I'd be cautious about recommending that approach. If you measure the gap between the lower edge of your air cleaner and the intake and then make a new line so as to place the new line 3/4 of the way within the top of that gap I think you will be okay. But I was just using an IR thermometer to check the temp of my 56's gas line and I think one big heat source for the gas is the fuel pump itself. I am almost tempted to try and incorporate a transmission cooler in my gas line to see if that would reduce the temp of the gas significantly. Then again I'm not sure that is even necessary or desireable. Anyway, go for the new line and let us know if it seems to help out.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

Hi John,

I'll definitely take your advice and reroute that gas line. I have to install a fuel filter anyway, and do a much needed cleanup of the whole engine and wires etc anyway so that'll be my project over the next couple of weeks.

I will stick with steel tubing rather than rubber. Last thing I want is dripping gas and fire.

Thanks!

Todd

[Guest 54fins]

I'm going semi luxury old school rat rod chic. So, don't use my photos for judging! Also, my observations are based on experience but take it all with a grain of salt! I did a Skylark and then had it judged, getting a silver. I judge the 50's class and I think I'm getting somewhat knowledgeable, but still learn something new everyday. I am into (at this point) doing it my way, but I like to document deviations and leave everything possible to go back to original. I'll do a senior someday but for now I'm into cruising. keeping everything perfect is more time than I currently have. So I'm offering drivability suggestions but take mods very carefully. Anyhow, most 50's cars will vapor lock. The metal fuel pump on the motor and the fuel lines get hot. This is why you must keep a fire extinguisher in the trunk. If the fuel leaks and ignites, the motor keeps pumping fuel on the fire but that's another subject. I may add a fuel shutoff solenoid. The Buick portholes were going to be heat vents. The engine compartment at very slow speeds recircs the hot air over the radiator. The higher the pressure, the less fuel vaporizes. Personal opinion, booster electric pump is mandatory if you like to drive. Stereos are also, you must have tunes to set the mood. Drink holders are a must. Old wires are big trouble. The Buick has a simple wiring setup and it's very hard to get behind the ignition switch. Electric problems will ruin the experience. On mine, I am going for the Buick green peeling away over chrome. I want to see the fuel in a period correct glass fuel filter and the rubber hose was easy. I Also took off the front clip and detailed the engine bay. It is very hard to work around 1000 # of steel and I rigged a radiator support so I could get the motor tuned up. I am also building a wire harness. Once you get all the wire issues and fuel issues squared away, the car can be quite reliable and fun to drive. Last, service every fluid. Engine, tranny, diff, brakes, grease fittings (dozens of them). 99% of failures are first old fluids, second old wires then fuel delivery. The last one is murphy's law but if you hit the 99% the 1% aint bad.

[Guest BuddyBuick]

54fins,

Everything you've just mentioned in your reply is pretty much what I'm about to do with my Buick - I want to "update" her, but I don't necessarily wanna go all-out rocker with her. I like the classic, clean look, but I want some of the bells and whistles. The hidden stero blew my mind. It's an awesome idea I don't know why I didn't think of that. I can still do it though. And I will.

I bought a cup holder with little flip up lid where I can store some change, bolts, fuses and bulbs, or whatever - a console tray. Sits nicely there. I like it. And it's not bolted there. It just sits there and can be removed just by lifting it out. 14.00 at Canadian Tire.

I'm going to pick up a little fire extinguisher though. I hadn't given that any thought until you and a couple others started talking about leaking gas, manifolds and FIRE. I didn't sleep very well last night. Thanks.

I don't have a home garage where I can start ripping Buick apart, though I do have a large private driveway. My only concern is neighbours not wanting the street looking all rednick - kind of what I am, I guess. I know we're the only rockabilly folks on the street. They don't seem to mind the car though. In fact, everyone seems to really dig it.

I do have some tweaks and work to do on her. I'm expecting more shipments of things for her - J-strips, door weather strippings, carpeting etc... So I WILL be out there all summer putting my own "signature likes" into her. That's for sure!

I like what you're doing to your engine. I dig the chrome and the way it's looking. I'm aiming for the same thing.

She's my first ever classic ride. And definitely won't be my last. So I guess I shouldn't really focus on keeping her classic 100% for shows if I'm not going to put her in shows.

Again, thanks for all the tips!

Todd