1955 Sludge

[Paul Falabella]

Took the valve covers off to paint, found pretty thick chunks of greyish sludge in outer part of heads.Dug out what I could with finger. Probably why valves tick a couple secs after start up. Worth flushing engine? Drop pan and see whats down there? Leave it alone?

[Guest shadetree77]

I would definitely drop the pan. I've heard lots of horror stories about sludge in the oil pan (as well as experiencing my own). Especially if your car sat idle for any significant length of time. If there's sludge down there, it will cause problems. I didn't drop mine when I bought it (wish I knew then what I know now) and it stranded me 20 miles from home on the way to a car show. That greyish clay-like stuff will spread through and completely clog your oiling system. I dropped my pan and could not believe what was in there. Around 4 inches of sludge and a perfectly preserved acorn (go figure on that one!). I also pressure washed the crankshaft and surrounding areas and completely disassembled and cleaned my rocker shaft assembly, oil pump, and oil filter can. I forgot to take pictures of my own cleaning process but here's some pictures of a fellow forum members experience. Mine looked similar but the sludge had more of a gray tone to it.

Edited August 22, 2012 by shadetree77 (see edit history)

[Guest GaWajn]

If you see sludge up top, there is bound to be more on the bottom. I would open her up for a cleaning.

That is what I found when I removed the pan from my 52 Pontiac eight.

[Paul Falabella]

Nasty pictures. Just finished cleaning heads. Dug what I could out with my finger(gloved of course). Then went in with Qtips. Then a paper towel. Outer part of head is lower than inner so inner pretty clean. Took a little schmutz off the valve train too. Gonna have to get that pan off,though my sludge don't look near as bad as these pics.My sludge is more grey than brown. Goes better with a black car I guess.

[Fr. Buick]

To pull the pan you will need to remove the cross-over exhaust pipe and the idler arm to let the steering linkage drop down and out of the way.

THEN, remove engine mount nuts, lift engine with a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan, and add some wood between mounting pads and the frame for extra height.

Let the engine down to rest on the wood and you should have enough room to pull the pan.

Once you see what lurks therein, you will be glad you did all this work...

[old-tank]

To pull the pan you will need to remove the cross-over exhaust pipe and the idler arm to let the steering linkage drop down and out of the way.

THEN, remove engine mount nuts, lift engine with a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan, and add some wood between mounting pads and the frame for extra height.

Let the engine down to rest on the wood and you should have enough room to pull the pan.

Once you see what lurks therein, you will be glad you did all this work...

On my 55 Centurys I have not had to raise the engine...otherwise the procedure is the same.

Willie

[Bhigdog]

On my 55 Centurys I have not had to raise the engine...otherwise the procedure is the same.

Willie

Agreed...............Bob

[Guest 54fins]

Assume the worst with sludge. It will plug an oil passage when you least expect it. I use atf and diesel fuel to clean it out. Do it now before the weather cools off, and pigs the cooling system. Don't be fooled by a nice running engine.

[old-tank]

I use atf and diesel fuel to clean it out.

Fins---

Just a "little" point of disagreement: Never put anything in the crankcase except quality engine oil.

Willie

[Paul Falabella]

I was gonna ask about that. After cleaning the heads and pan i was going to fill with a thinner oil, run it a little and change it soon after. Figure any residual, especially in the heads would wash down.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Paul, if you are talking AFTER the pan is dropped and cleaned, that is not a bad idea. "Back in the day" [ how I dislike that term] we did this if the owner requested us to do so. We would use 10w bulk oil, run until oil was warm and then drain and refill with proper oil of owners choice. Did it do any good? Did it do any harm? I don't know!!

Ben

[Guest 54fins]

if you are not comfortable with ATF or diesel in your engine, use the lightest possible oil you can find. The Buick shop manual recommends 5 or 10 wt to flush, followed by using 20 wt as the regular oil. you will find that old sludge will not easily dissolve. worse, detergent oil can break loose a sludge ball that will plug an oil passage. This is the tricky part of reviving an old engine and it is Russian roulette. If the sludge is very visibly bad, you will need a solvent as it can be like tar. Diesel is the lightest hydrocarbon that still lubricates, Kerosene is lighter. If you have to go that route, you can take a drill and run your oil pump and hand turn the motor. 5 or 10 wt oil still needs a running engine, as it has to get hot to dissolve the sludge. But running, a plugged passage is going to wipe a bearing or stick a valve. If you don't get the sludge out it is highly likely you will ruin your motor. If you use a solvent, be very careful. ATF is a 10 wt oil but has a lot of additives. Old Tank is right, if you are not sure just use motor oil but get the lightest possible grade. Run it nice and hot for a few hours and then change it again, but do take off the valve covers and dump it all over the valves. See if oil is squirting around the valve rockers and that all the valves are travelling with no noise. Be vary wary of any metallic sounds.

[Paul Falabella]

Will not get to dropping the pan for a little while. Will not be using the car too much till then. I am only assuming sludge in the pan because of the sludge in the heads, while I'd consider a significant amount, nowhere near what I've seen in some of the pictures. I think I got most of so will run the engine a bit and change the oil with regular oil. Will do the thin oil routine after the pan cleaning. Not too comfortable with non motor oil products in the crankcase. Just my thinking.

[buick man]

Here you will find my humble contribution made last year regarding this very same subject: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/nailhead-pan-clean-up-photographed-308763.html

[KAD36]

As long as we are airing dirty pans...

So my engine was probably lucky. We hauled the car out of my grandfathers shed in 1982 after being off the road since about 1968, my cousin and I ran 2 oil and filter changes of 10W with a bottle of Rislone added, and off the car went for another 5 years and 40,000 miles of full time round the year service. In hindsight should have done this after it was taken out of the garage. My only casualty was that my lifters were pretty noisy until I recently rebuilt the valve train and went with a new 56 lifter/pushrod setup.

[buick man]

Here you will find my humble contribution made last year regarding this very same subject: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/nailhead-pan-clean-up-photographed-308763.html

Edit: Oh and Paul go here to read about properly cleaning your rocker shafts/arm/lifters and a little chemistry thrown in to boot: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/how-do-series-learn-how-we-322149.html

Regarding Transmission Fluid, Kerosene and all the rest. Transmission Fluid is a Fluid not an Oil. Kerosene will carry away any solute in solution leaving no residue. Brake fluid Dot 3 for example will dissolve varnished contaminates just like lacquer thinner and then kerosene can be used to carry that solution away from the surface in question.

When I pulled my 57 off, it took about 10 minutes to do so not counting the time it took to remove the bolts. Just removed the 2 bolt off of the frame on the passenger side where the cross member attaches to the idler arm, put the 2 bolts back in for safe keeping, lowered the cross member as it drops down at that point, removed the lower flywheel cover, ( 4 small bolts) and went about removing the pan. Do not remember is the 55 has the rear type pan or not

Recommendations:

If you are going to do this right, remove the radiator, fan, water pump and cross bar in front of radiator so as to gain complete access to the engine.

Remove the oil pump, disassemble, clean and check for wear. There is a spring and check valve in there that will no doubt be gummy beared.

Remove the oil filter boss from the block, clean and make sure to remove and clean check spring and ball valve in this as well.

Remove the intake manifold with carburetor attached and the lifter valley cover as well.

Remove valve covers, rocker assembly, push rods and lifters making damn sure not to mix up where they came from so a labeling and ledger system is required as well as having plastic compartmentalized holders to store each part in. Clean, Verify and Reassemble as pointed out above provided link.

Obtain a large concrete mixing tub from your local lumber store, a 6 x 6 piece of heavy plastic ( 4ml or 6ml) and place under your block area. Clean the lifter valley area out completely using first Orange blaster Degreaser, then some Dot 3 Brake Fluid to remove the varnish. Brake fluid is a Fluid so it will wash away with simple water. Repeat as needed using the various and obvious brush and pick tools needed. Do not use anything that has metal in it to clean. Such as brushes or picks. Use wooden tooth picks and plastic brushes. Clean to your satisfaction. Then Flush Clean Lifter Valley Areas - Including Lifter Bores and the Entire General Area upon completion with Kerosene.

Then acquire some clear plastic 3/8 ID tubing and a cheap drill operated pump along with a 5 gallon bucket and a variable speed drill and 2 gallons of Kerosene. With all the above parts removed, take and stick the tubing up into the orifice opening where the oil pump shaft went. Use a little duck tape to secure but should be stay put making sure the O.D. of the tube is a tight fit to the I.D. of the pump shaft opening. Replace your cleaned oil boss along with just the filter can housing and bolt back into place making sure it is properly fitted and just tight. Then fill your bucket with a gallon of 1 Gallon of Marvel Mystery Oil, 1 - Quart of Lacquer Thinner and 1-pint of Kerosene. Attach the cheap roto pump to your drill and start spinning, easy at first and not too fast, just a slow to medium spin rate. The solution will go up the tube and up into your block. It will then go up through your oil boss and up into the block, pushing through the factory center bored passage ways of the crank and cam areas. This will effectively flush the main oil gallery system out. The crap will fall down into your concrete mixing bucket which is just long and wide enough to catch all droppings. Stop when you are about 1/3 way down from the top on your solution in your 5 gallon bucket. Stop and let it sit over night. Cover the solution bucket for safe keeping. Then the next day, start the drill up again and do another 1/3 solution flush. Then stop, cover solution bucket and let system soak n rest. Then on the 3rd day, use the rest of the solution in your bucket. Set yourself up with a 1-1/8 socket and 1/2 inch drive ratchet and apply it to the crank hub bolt head so you can spin the engine in a clockwise fashion while you are pumping the solution through. Either have a helper do this while you are pumping or pump, stop turn the crank a few turns, then pump a little, stop turn the crank a few revolutions, then repeat. Now let things rest overnight. On the 4th day, remove the drip concrete mix bucket and drain into a designated 5 gallon holding bucket. If you want as I did, you can obtain automotive paper filters from you local automotive paint jobber. They give these away free along with stir sticks and are very handy for filtering solutions of all kinds. I then take a funnel and filter the crap out of my solution. I do this 3 or 4 times and then you have a dandy cleaning solution to be used on other parts when needed. Just make sure you get a container with a sealable lid.

So now you are ready to put the concrete mixing bucket back under the engine. Pour a Gallon of Kerosene into a clean 5 gallon bucket and start the drill back up at a slow spin rate and let it flush. Go through that 1 gallon completely. Then pour in another 1 gallon of clean Kerosene and repeat the process again. Let the engine rest and drain for 1 hour. During this time you can be cleaning up your 5 gallon bucket and cleaning your concrete mixing tub for the next step.

Remove the oil boss/filter and clean again. Reinstall.

Now pour a clean 1/2 gallon amount of pure Marvel Mystery Oil into a clean 5 gallon bucket and start the drill up again with a slow spin rate. This will pump and saturate the engine blocks complete oil gallery delivery system. Let the engine rest and drain for a couple day.

During this time, continue and complete the cleaning all of your lifters, oil pump etc if you have not already done so.

Now Remove the Concrete Tub from under the engine and filter this into a sealed container bucket. Replace tub under the block.

Reinstall the Lifters, Push Rods and Rocker Arm Assemblies.

Now get a cheap gallon of single 30 weight Dino Oil and again spin the pump while also repeating the crank turning procedure applied above. Pump and turn the crank clockwise. Watch for the oil to come out of the front ends of the rocker shafts. You will also see oil going into the valley area as well. Oil will be dripping as well out of the cranks journals and cam journals.

You now have a properly cleanly flushed and primed engine.

You can take it from there.

Hope this helps everyone in doing theirs as well.

Edited August 26, 2012 by buick man (see edit history)

[Paul Falabella]

Just started for first time since cleaning the heads of sludge. Always had a few seconds of valve tick when starting cold . None this time. Will be be keeping use to a minimum till I get to clean the pan.

Man, some of these cleaning methods would put you on the EPA's Most Wanted List !

[buick man]

Paul: You have to recycle. That is the key. Anything you remove from the car your have to recycle.... eventually.

Just draining the oil and running the car is the same as machining the parts without removing them but to the overall detriment of the engine and it's longevity.

No In and Out Burger service here.

You will be rewarded with what you put into this procedure. Otherwise your local mechanic and machine shop will have you on "their" most wanted list.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

As long as we are airing dirty pans...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]151229[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]151230[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]151231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]151232[/ATTACH]

So my engine was probably lucky. We hauled the car out of my grandfathers shed in 1982 after being off the road since about 1968, my cousin and I ran 2 oil and filter changes of 10W with a bottle of Rislone added, and off the car went for another 5 years and 40,000 miles of full time round the year service. In hindsight should have done this after it was taken out of the garage. My only casualty was that my lifters were pretty noisy until I recently rebuilt the valve train and went with a new 56 lifter/pushrod setup.

Picture #2 is scary!!

Ben

[wex65]

Took the valve covers off to paint, found pretty thick chunks of greyish sludge in outer part of heads.Dug out what I could with finger. Probably why valves tick a couple secs after start up. Worth flushing engine? Drop pan and see whats down there? Leave it alone?

Thanks Paul. I had already decided my winter project was to pull the engine and detail it. Based upon this thread and the fact the engine ticks for a few seconds when started I suspect my winter project probably just got a little bigger.

[KAD36]

Our "theory" back then, as we stood staring at the car covered with dirt, dust and floor varnish, was a 2x warm up, light weight oil, additive, drive and drain would have done a better job. Guess no detergent can get dirt and pebbles out of the oil pan. Who knew? The "ticks" eventually turned into "clacks" but she kept on runnin....at least pedestrians heard it coming and got out of the way. Funny how fast paying that tuition bill drains the car maintenance funds.

Its quiet enough to sneak up on people now.....:cool:

Edited August 30, 2012 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[1953mack]

. . . . . if you are not comfortable with ATF or diesel in your engine, use the lightest possible oil you can find. The Buick shop manual recommends 5 or 10 wt to flush, followed by using 20 wt as the regular oil. you will find that old sludge will not easily dissolve. worse, detergent oil can break loose a sludge ball that will plug an oil passage. This is the tricky part of reviving an old engine and it is Russian roulette . . . . .

It's a proven fact that 5 out of every 6 Buick Owners that have tried this were happy with the results!

Al Mack

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

[buick man]

Some good thought here. However, I don't think the Buick shop manual was referring or even considering the proper flushing of an engine that has sat since Nixon took office. True those shop manual flush methods are reasonable and not an overall hassle but are intended for in-service vehicles at oil change. Very appealing to the easy going collector who just does not know any better or worse and would be led to believe this would work for his or her mummified show piece as well.

[Guest shadetree77]

Some good thought here. However, I don't think the Buick shop manual was referring or even considering the proper flushing of an engine that has sat since Nixon took office. True those shop manual flush methods are reasonable and not an overall hassle but are intended for in-service vehicles at oil change. Very appealing to the easy going collector who just does not know any better or worse and would be led to believe this would work for his or her mummified show piece as well.

Exceptionally well said sir. If you have an engine that has been sitting for any length of time, you are fooling yourself if you think any type of "flush" will work. You need to get in there and get your hands dirty. Take everything apart and clean it thoroughly! Time consuming, you bet. Annoying, you better believe it. But in the end, you will prolong the life of your engine. I guarantee it.

[KAD36]

Yes - well said! One thing is for sure - the engine sure is rugged.

Edited August 31, 2012 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[Guest 54fins]

I do agree. The oil passage to your valves is very tight and a piece of gunk will plug it fast. The exhaust valve will then stick, just for a nanosecond. The piston then hits it at 45 degrees, bending it so it can't return. it then ripps a hole in the piston, destroying what was a rebuildable head, a piston and possibly ruining your block. The nailhead won't forgive poor oil service and an oil change won't make up for the years of neglect. You gotta get the gunk out or your engine may become a boat anchor.:mad:

[buick man]

. . . And a high five to that 54fins!