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wex65

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About wex65

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  • Birthday 08/06/1965

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  1. Not looking to make a buck on this. Make a $20 donation to a cancer charity and cover shipping and I'm good. Worked fine when removed.
  2. Thanks Tim. I will look back through photos I took before stripping the car down. My guess is that the butchered hole was an electric temp gauge someone had fitted to the car.
  3. Trying to get the firewall in paint in the next week but have a question. The thing has a LOT of holes but to be honest the mostly look factory. Cant find a resource to check what should and should not be there but the only hole that looks like it was eaten through the metal by a beaver is circled. I shot some primer over it to make the holes stand out. Can anyone confirm whether this is 'surplus'? Thanks,
  4. Many thanks for the feedback guys, I am more looking to have something original looking as the car itself is pretty original. Datatags can do an anodized one for $100 including shipping but it isn't so much the cost that is important to me but authenticity. If the original was a decal then that's probably the way I will go. The car doesn't see rain and does like 2k miles a year so I think it should hold up pretty well. After all, the original looks like it held up for 60 years and I would like to think the materials/adhesives used now are better...hopefully.
  5. I am looking to freshen up the data plate on our 55. The metal plate itself is in great condition. The transparent/black plastic cover that has the Ford writing on it is lifting in several areas and honestly all I need is a new plastic cover. So, does anyone sell these? That way I could simply lift the old one, clean the plate and apply a new cover. All the information remains on the metal plate so this seems like a simple exercise. If no one does make/sell them if anyone interested if I get some made up.
  6. I am on a 3k mile trip in 4 weeks with a gaggle of other Model As and the chase vehicle will be holding spares for each car. We decided it would be prudent to carry a spare starter so whether working or core isn't an issue as we will be getting it rebuilt ahead of time. 25430 is ZIP, WV Thanks,
  7. As the title says, looking for a starter motor for a '55-'56 or so 322 Buick. Thanks,
  8. Thanks guys, the cover and pins arrive later this week. I will post an update once the new cover is in place in the event it helps others. The old wiring behind the dash was "interesting" to say the least. The mods made by a PO left my scratching my head... All new looms going in so should be back to factory spec, except for the 12v conversion.
  9. Thanks Paul. I removed the cover and heater and am trying to get my head around how these pins work. I ordered a new cover and set of pins from NPD and will look at the new ones. It appears then they are installed from the engine compartment side of the firewall and spring open, holding the cover, meaning they stay inserted?
  10. I suspect there is a knack to this but how does one remove the pins holding the firewall cover in place?? I tried my usual delicate approach (brute force) but no joy. Thanks, Paul
  11. Thanks, I played with it a little this morning and think I have found a way to get it to align. If it works I will post back here... I agree though that removing the lock from the equation will be helpful.
  12. I know this was rhetorical but yes, I have.
  13. Is there a way to align the glove box door? Got my freshly covered dash back in the car (need to repaint the glovebox door as I managed to chip it!) and the glovebox door doesn't line up. To be fair it never did. Wondering if there is a way to align it?
  14. Typical, 2 mins after posting here I found this... CONVERTING THE 1955 THUNDERBIRD FROM 6 VOLTS TO 12 VOLTS by: Walt Knuckles Edited by: Bob DePaola Some of you are making way too big a deal of the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion on the 55 Thunderbird. For instance, you don't, or should not need a wiring diagram. You don't need to rewire the car. All the wire for the 6 volt system is twice as large as need be for 12 volt service. The only thing you need to change under the dash is the dash light bulbs and maybe the cigar lighter if you still smoke. The polarity for the clock must be chan
  15. Bumping this up as I am in the same boat. The car had already been converted to 12v but as part of redoing the dash I purchased a brand new 55 dash loom and now that I am installing it I am wondering what differences exist between the 'standard' (6v) install and for 12v usage? I bought new gas/temp gauges which are 12v but again I am unclear as to the changes needed. Surely there is a 6v to 12v conversion resource out there somewhere?
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