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paint and break fluid


fredmeyer

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Guest bofusmosby

If you switch to DOT-5, you'll need to completely clean ALL of the old fluid out of your system. If there is a trace of the old DOT-3 left, you'll have big problems. This will include the master cylinder, the brake lines as well as the wheel cylinders.

Edited by bofusmosby (see edit history)
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I am glad I started this thread. We get lots of silly stuff plus things I can use. This incompatability thing must be serious. I have so much rust in the master cylinder that I am also taking all the wheel cylinders off to clean up so I should be able to get it clear. Not sure why so much rust but the brakes were the first thing I did when I started this restoration and the car has not really moved more than a few miles in the 6 years or so I have been working on it then this spring after sitting for 4 or 5 months the master cylinder started leaking a day or two after I moved the car out or my garage for a wash job. As a side item this is a 30 Chrysler and the master cylinder repair kit from NAPA is their part #1. Still available. Thanks everyone.

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I want to stress what bofusmosby stated when converting from DOT 3 to DOT 5. As stated, "ALL" fluid must be removed. I recently changed over one of my cars from DOT 3 to 5. I pulled a vacuum on the brake system to clean out the DOT 3 but apparently that, and bleeding was not enough. As previous posts have stated, the combination of 3 and 5 turned to sludge over a few days and made braking horrible until I was able to get it all out of the system. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

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When converting to Silicone brake fluid, you really should replace ALL the rubber components, specifically including the flexible rubber brake lines, wheel cylinder and master cylinder cups. And everything should be thoroughly flushed with something like isopropyl alcohol and then blown dry with oil-free compressed air. Doing any less is begging for problems down the road.

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Guest bofusmosby
Not sure why so much rust but the brakes were the first thing I did when I started this restoration and the car has not really moved more than a few miles in the 6 years or so I have been working on it then this spring after sitting for 4 or 5 months the master cylinder started leaking a day or two after I moved the car out or my garage for a wash job.

Remember, the DOT-3 will absorb moisture. This in turn will cause rust throughout the system. I re-did my brakes (37 Pontiac) a couple of years ago, and since then, have driven the car 40-50 miles tops. Down here in Florida, there is almost always high humidity, so I will probably need to go through my brakes again soon.

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Ken, that was a groaner for sure.....you sure know how to drum up laughs...bet you realize when you try to take notes with a broken pencil it's pointless.....

One issue with the silicone brake fluid is that it'll leak out of the smallest hole or gap, so your cylinders have to be perfect, and you may have problems if you've sleeved master or wheel cylinders.

On a similar note, I tried using synthetic gear oil in my Hupp transmission, but it also finds the smallest hole or crack, and leaks out like crazy, and I would have sworn the tranny was buttoned up tighter that Dick's hat band....

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