fredmeyer

Check Restoration Supply co. at restorationstuff.com. They have the ends in different diameters. I am going through this same thing with a 30 chrysler and I think they can come up with what I need or close enough to make it work. I saw this name on a similar question somewhere in this forum.

Just a thought if you have checked all the obvious things. If you can get a dwell meter somewhere check that. The points might be open a bit too far not letting the coil charge enough for proper spark. Or you might try closing the point gap just a little and see what happens. I don't know what the dwell meter should read.

Isn't it behind the dash in a Chrysler with the ignition key built in? That makes it much different and very much higher in price and you won't get one at a NAPA store. A regular coil can be used but you will need some kind of switch to take the place of the key and need to do some extra wiring.

Not sure what you have but I always thought 6 volt cars didn't use resistors. They were used when we went to 12 volt and the higher voltage burnt up the points. The resistor cut the voltage through the points closer to 6 volts, but when starting the resistor was by passed to give more spark and when the starter was shut off the resistor is back in the circuit. Can anyone straighten me out?

Thanks Marty, Thats is the sort of thing I was going to attempt to do rather than spend $350. I have in the meantime had good luck with mine. I put a 6 volt coil in with a plain old toggle switch to turn on and off. It still wouldn't work.(the smallest spark you could imagine.) I got a new set of plug wires and replaced what was there along with the coil wire. Still didn't work. A local mechanic friend suggested I check the battery ground and put a strap between the motor and the frame where the battery was grounded which I didn't have at the time. I removed both battery cables which didn't look bad but shined up everything and put the strap to the motor and it started right up. The starter always did turn over well so I never thought of going to the cables, but this was the trouble. I tried my old chrysler coil and it works just as well as the new one. Strange, but it is now working. My mechanic friend suggested that the starter has such a large amp load that it will find a ground somehow but the spark is all voltage and that is a different game.

Mine isn't quite so square as yours. The sides, top and bottom bow out just a slight bit. The inside switch looks the same as yours. I might be on the wrong track anyway. I just tried to hook up a new coil and I still can't get anything. I am now suspicious of the coil wire. May have been my problem all along. I am going to make a new wire and see what happens.

Thanks for the great pictures Keiser they made me brave enough to pull mine apart. I have done a bit of digging and Jay Astheimer told me to call a firm called Atwater Kent in Worster, Ma. who still make these or will rebuild your old one. Very helpful and he knew exactly what I was talking about and had them in stock but for $350. I am not sure what I am going to do but its good to know they are available.

I think I burnt out the coil on a 1930cj. The type with the key built into the bottom of the coil. Has anyone tried to retrofit a switch on the key mechanism and then just used a regular coil. It is well put together and doesn't look like chrysler meant for us to be messing with it or at least I don't see a way to easily separate the coil from the key part of it. I am guessing the coil is internally wired so that the bat. terminal goes to some kind of switch off the key which when turned on sends power to the other terminal and to the points. Should be able to Rube Goldberg something that will work. Any advice??

I am glad I started this thread. We get lots of silly stuff plus things I can use. This incompatability thing must be serious. I have so much rust in the master cylinder that I am also taking all the wheel cylinders off to clean up so I should be able to get it clear. Not sure why so much rust but the brakes were the first thing I did when I started this restoration and the car has not really moved more than a few miles in the 6 years or so I have been working on it then this spring after sitting for 4 or 5 months the master cylinder started leaking a day or two after I moved the car out or my garage for a wash job. As a side item this is a 30 Chrysler and the master cylinder repair kit from NAPA is their part #1. Still available. Thanks everyone.

I didn't know that water jacket. that's an easy solution. Thanks

I stand corrected dep 5, I should have braked instead of broken.

Is there a paint that I can use on a master cylinder that won't peal off when I spill break fluid over it.

I am having my 1930 Chrysler six four door sedan repainted. My body man has discovered dark blue paint on the doors and rear below the trim molding that runs all the way around the car. Not on the fenders, under the doors, or on top. Not sure about the hood he hasn't gotten that far yet. I thought the car was all black. Is this a legitiment color scheme. I have seen pictures of older Chryslers like this but no 1930. Any one have any ideas or pictures? He says he can come up with the color if his book goes back that far.