Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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Roger, your work amazes me! "ve been following this thread from the beginning and it has inspired me to try a project. I am building a 1/6 scale replica of the engine from my '36 Dodge but it in no way can measure up to your level of detail. Even in 1/6 scale i find it extremely difficult to make small parts so detailed.Th model is made from mostly wood, plastic and some brass but I have no specialty power tools to aid in construction. Here a few early photos of the project. It's almost completed now after 2 years. Thanks for posting this thread and I really look forward to seeing the completed model!

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Your Dodge engine is good looking! Don't think that my first model was so detailed...Without a minimum of equipment, some parts are difficult to shape. A lathe is required with the possibility to use it as a milling machine; the Unimat3 is for that suitable, unfortunately, no more available since years, except on eBay from time to time.

1:6 is really a large scale...Too large for my lathe, I never could do the wheels!

Do you intend to go further, I means with a frame or more accessories like the air cleaner?

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8 hours ago, jpage said:

Roger, your work amazes me! "ve been following this thread from the beginning and it has inspired me to try a project. I am building a 1/6 scale replica of the engine from my '36 Dodge but it in no way can measure up to your level of detail. Even in 1/6 scale i find it extremely difficult to make small parts so detailed.Th model is made from mostly wood, plastic and some brass but I have no specialty power tools to aid in construction. Here a few early photos of the project. It's almost completed now after 2 years. Thanks for posting this thread and I really look forward to seeing the completed model!

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Can you put a dollar bill with it so we can see the size difference? That looks fantastic.

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I have it completed except for the spark plugs and plug wires. It has all the accessories on it. I'll have to see if I can get some good closeup pics. my camera doesn't take very good photos up close!. The model is 8 1/2 inches long. The head measures 3 3/4 in. long and 1 3/16 wide.

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33 minutes ago, jpage said:

I have it completed except for the spark plugs and plug wires. It has all the accessories on it. I'll have to see if I can get some good closeup pics. my camera doesn't take very good photos up close!. The model is 8 1/2 inches long. The head measures 3 3/4 in. long and 1 3/16 wide.

 

What is the story behind the project? That is really neat. Thanks for sharing.

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I have been building models since I was a kid, usually all antique cars and trucks which sparked my interest in old cars. I haven't done any real modeling for many years because when I was in my teens my dad told me that I was too old for toys like this so I stopped. I love detailed things, so when I saw Roger's thread and the skill and attention to detail he puts into everything, I decided to try something in a large scale just to see if I could do it. I'm not an engineer or very skilled for that matter but it's always a challenge to figure out how to fashion an item out of scraps that you might have lying around. Most everything, like the starter, gen., oil filter, manifolds block and oil pan are wood with plastic details. i did make some things from brass. Metal always gives a sharper detail  and a more realistic look as with wood you have to contend with grain and shrinkage. I'm going to try to post some more pics today if I can. And, Roger, please don't think I'm trying to hijack your thread, just wanted you to know that your work is inspiring. I thought this model would be easy since I had all the parts here for measurement, now I'm thinking about what to do next. Might try an antique tractor. You would think that something this small would be cheap to build but those tiny bolts are expensive! I can just imagine what Roger has invested in those models he builds!

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Here's more photos of the engine. Sorry for the poor resolution on some. If you look real closely you can see one spark plug lying on the head. I don't know if it can be seen but there is a copper mesh filter behind the screen in the air filter.

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Edited by jpage (see edit history)
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Again, nice engine jpage! About the costs: compared to a restoration from a real car, almost negligible...

 

Many things happened the last few days: as it was rather warm outside, I decided to make the negative form for the headliner. Halas, when I was ready to do it, there was a nasty wind! Imagine small patched from fiberglass on a table with gusty winds…they don’t stay on the table for a long time! As everything was prepared, I decided to do the job inside. To clear the air, I opened enough windows when the job was done.

I will have to rework this mold because for the moment it is like a modern headliner glued on a substrate. I will have to add the specific shape from a headliner when they still were attached to the roof with wires.

When the polyester was curing, I began to plan the CONTINENTAL letters for the hood and the trunk. Front and rear letters are the same, with the exception of the middle “N” at the hood because the letter has to follow the hood’s shape.

Fortunately for me, the shape of the letters is rather simple compared to the word “Studebaker” or the “TORONADO” letters; the easy design of the letters was partly offset by their small dimensions: 1mm height, 1.5mm in length, except the “I” of course. I began with the easy ones: the “C”. After three tries, I had it. Fortunately, I had a milling tool which is 0.2mm thick; I did almost all the work with that tool. I had mixed feelings about the “A” and its hole: I drilled 2 holes of 0.3mm next to another; I succeed on both letters without breaking the bit. The “N” was mostly done with a file; I had to do 8 letters to have 6 decent ones.

Once plated with nickel, the letters will be glued on the paint with transparent silicone.

Sorry for the dirt around the letters; I noticed that after the picture was done…

856 CONTINENTAL letters.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
Replaced "B" with "A": no B in Continental! (see edit history)
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This is for JPage,

Going with 1:6 Scale allows you to get into more detail as the engine is larger.  There is a guy, Louis Chenot  who absolutely blew us all away with his 1:6 scale Duesenberg  Phaeton.  His engine RAN and I have attached the clip on U Tube showing it running.  I live in Carlsbad but when he was here demonstrating the engine at the Joe Martin's  "Craftsmanship Museum",  I had the flu and was not able to attend.  

First Run of Lou Chenot's 1/6 scale Duesenberg engine - YouTube          

 

You can also see his car on You tube too.  

 

He completed the Duesenberg and won the "Craftsmanship of the Decade" award from the Joe Martin foundation.  Joe Martin has passed but his company, Sherline tools, is still in business.  With no heirs, he left a good part of it in Trust for perpetuity. The Museum houses a beautiful array of hand made model engines, airplanes, trains, boats, steam engines, etc., etc.  If you are ever in So Cal, don't miss this museum.  It is a living museum with craftsmen working in the back showing visitors the operation of their tooling (Lathes, milling machines, etc. etc. and they are actively working on different projects and models.  Worth a visit.   
 

Louis has "lent" his Duesenberg to the museum and it is on display.  He is now working on a 1:6 scale Garwood with a Liberty engine.  Don't know if the engine will be running but knowing him, it probably will.  

 

So, J Page, (didn't get your name) is this engine going into a 1:6 scale automobile or truck?  Or are you just doing the engine/transmission?  The quality of your replication is spot on.   Kudos to you.  

 

For Roger, we just got the pictures back on the Forum.  They were upgrading or ?  and all of the pictures were not attached and we could not see the progress for over a week.  But they are back now and now we can see what you have been up to and what JPage was talking about as we could not see what he had attached.

 

Looking forward to the next post.

 

Randy

 

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Roger,

 

Cutting the lettering for the Continental is spot on.  IF you were to enlarge them, they would match the 1:1 car.  I do not envy you finishing them (final filing, sanding and polishing) for the plating company.  I was working on a very minute turnbuckle (1:50 scale for a Military Flat Car with a WW II Sherman Tank as the payload.  When I get it done, I will send you a pic).  I spent 1 hour working on the tiny hooks to secure the load and spent an additional hour and a half on my hands and knees looking for the parts that I dropped (several times)   :-(    I am going to put down a white sheet next time I do something like this.  Irritating.   

 

We are all awaiting to see how the headliner will come out.  Nice to know that the weather is starting to change back to Spring time.  Not there yet but coming.   We here in San Diego almost washed away.  More rain in Southern California that has been here since the early 90's.   We broke rainfall records and we are not done with the rainy season yet.  So much for living in a "desert".  

 

Always in Awe and respect for your craft,

Randy

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As the weather was almost like spring time, I could do the positive shape for the headliner. As the polyester has to cure one or two days, I began the emblems located on the front fenders. Each part is done with 5 separate elements silver soldered.

Here is a picture from the real part, followed by my interpretation. I’m just wondering how I will polish that…

 

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Roger, I just don't know how you do it!

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6 hours ago, jpage said:

Roger, I just don't know how you do it!

Well, with some imagination, a fine milling tool and file and patience. To tell the truth, I was not sure if those small parts would look like a gob of brass and silver solder...

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Roger,

Under the magnifying glass (the forum watchers) of the public, you are producing magic.  Like at a magic show, we, the audience, are always awaiting the next trick that you pull out of your hat.  Those are TINY parts.  Finishing the emblems for the plating company will be fun !  They are so minute, if there are any flaws, they will not be noticeable, only to you.  One day, there will not be any more parts to make or parts to prep and paint.  This story is an excellent diversion from our daily lives.  We check in here and get our "dose" of Roger's Magic.  You wow us all.

 

Randy

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Just wait Randy: I preparing the steps for the hood ornament. from the dimensions I got from Germany and from somebody from the Mark II forum, this piece is...rather large.

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It does not happen a lot, but this time I don’t know how further: thanks to the mild weather we had recently, I could “cast” the headliner shell. After trimming, it goes into the roof, but the fitting is not perfect as I removed here and there too much material.

Initially, I had the idea to use off-white satin to represent the headliner. That material is very thin; probably by applying cement on the shell, the glue will go through the satin (more from it later). To avoid the problem, I imagined cutting the shell into 7 segments at the lines which are figuring the suspending wires and glue the material from behind. I anticipated following problems: the alignment of each panel may not match the next panel exactly; the satin must be cemented on the roof at the sides, not at the shell. That cemented satin on the side could be pushed back when I will attach the side and front brass molding, ruining the headliner. OK, I could try and in case of catastrophic failure redo another shell. Misshapen are sometimes there to find a better solution; I prefer however to avoid waste.

The next solution would be to install definitively the shell into the roof and cement the satin directly on it. I tried this morning to spray some “Display mount” from 3M; as expected, I had the fingers full of that stuff which go through a thin cloth very easily.

The other solution I see is the use thin leather for the headliner. Not quite correct, but who is looking at the headliner from a scale model?

Maybe one of my readers has a solution I could use…

 

 

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859 Shell into the roof.JPG

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Roger,

 

I continue to be in awe of your skill.  Way over the top compared to my modest abilities.

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Roger,

The problem(s) with the 3M aerosol product is that you have to have the fabric positioned EXACTLY before you press it into the headliner. Once it touches the glue, it is nigh on impossible to move it and the glue is almost instant. plus you have overspray that has to be cleaned up. I may have a solution to your adhesive.  The product is called Aleene's Original Tacky Glue.  It is all purpose and when applied in a thin coat it shouldn't come through the satin or fabric. It is used by crafts people gluing fabric and most everything.  Since the California Air Resources Board has banned most products that have lacquers or spirits the industries have had to come up with water based products. Aleene's is a water based product and clean up is easy. Also it is not aerosol. It comes in a bottle or a tube and you can experiment with the fabric to see how it will work.  If you local craft shops there do not have it, let me know.   I will pick up a bottle and ship it to you.  I use this product for a lot of my needs.  It is  used here extensively in the crafts hobbies.  It is made by Duncan Enterprises  here in Fresno California.  I was first turned onto this product in my scale model railroad hobby.  The guys used it to attach the track to the road bed without using nails (on N scale).  The good thing about the glue is that if you want to remove the item or cloth, it will release without tearing up what you are gluing it to.  It is water based and it should not damage your poly roof liner.  With this glue, it dries clear and you have the ability to move or "position" the fabric before the glue dries.  Doing a small area at a time will allow you to get good results.  Email me  and let me know.  I will swing by the crafts store tomorrow (The 11th) and pick up a bottle or tube.

 

Hopefully, this  will solve your problem.

 

Randy

 

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