Advice me to buy a classic collectible

[Mika Jaakkola]

OK, help me out , every tip appreciated.

I'm at the point of my life that I decided to get something interesting.

But what?

With the funds I have I might get a good "standard" american vehicle.. but maybe I would like to get "not so good" classic car?

<span style="font-weight: bold">Is there any possibilitiesto find</span> Franklin,Auburn, Cord(810/812), Pierce Arrow, Packard or something like that for $10k-$20k ? I mean in drivable/restorable condition.

Am I nuts, or just missed something?

I have never owned a pre 1938 car, but are those wooden frames always gone?

Any other interesting makes that I should consider?

As a "standard" car as a choice for me;

I have always liked Chrysler cars, but then on the other hand, I'm looking for a BIG luxury car, a 4 door preferred. I guess there's only Imperials & New Yorkers available.. pre 1956 ?

Thanks for replies!

[R Walling]

Franklins start at about $12,000. Auburns - $13,000

Pierce Arrows-$28,000, Cords - $30,000 if you could find any of the above at that price!

Imperials start at about $6,000.

Of course you can pay $100,000's more for a good one.

Chose the poison that suits your budget and taste. They will all kill you if you get passionate over them.

[Jim Rohn]

there is a 1927 laSalle phaeton on the for sale board ....

[Barry Wolk]

If you're willing to come into the '50s, the Continental Mark II is really quite the bargain. Considering that there were only 3,000 made for the '56 and '57 model year, they're really reasonably priced.

In fact, it's the best of the "classic" world, fitting all the criteria of the CCCA, except for age. In addition, it also brings to the table the first of Ford's 12-volt cars.

[Guest Orphanauto]

I would suggest looking in a book showing all the cars of the 40's, and one of the 50's. Then find the ones YOU really like, after all, this is for you and you should get something you will really enjoy. I personally love the orphan cars, of which, a 1937-40 110 Packard, would fit the Packard classic you mentioned. They made alot of them, they can be bought already restored, for around 15000. give or take. A great price for a cool car. The 110 was the 6 cylinder and entry level Packard. True, it's only a six, and not the big V12, but the V12 is $100,000, and only a few made, verses, a 110 that because they made so many, parts are easier to get. Best of luck, also, since you got our attention, please send a picture of what you get, haha, thanks...

[supersix]

In addition to what Barry said about the Continental Mark II, in my opinion, the Continental Mark I usually is a bargain, and convertibles are readily available.

[Reatta Man]

Mika,

YOUR definition of what is interesting is probably your best guidline.

Many cars today haven't caught on with the collector car trends, but still have very loyal followings. So, as one car dealer told me years ago, no matter how unusual a car may be, "there is a butt for every seat."

Best bet is, if you lock into a make and model, find out how difficult it is to keep it going so you can enjoy it.

Out of the brands you listed, many of them are near the point to where some parts almost have to be fabricated or duplicated. Can you live with that, or would you rather have something a little more mainstream in order to keep it going when you need spare parts?

Personally, I think your mention of Chryslers and Imperials are very good options. Imperials were practically made in collector car numbers when they were brand new. There are lots of Imperial followers out there, so your chances of finding a low-production car that is nearly perfect condition from one of those guys for a great price is possible.

Good luck!

Joe

[Steve Braverman]

I paid $13,500 for this car in May of 2000. This is me picking it up before driving it 900 miles home. I would say the prices have not changed that much for these cars since then.

[alsancle]

Here is a 29 Auburn Conv for $26k

38 Caddy Conv for 28k

Here is a 36 Pierce Arrow for $16k

[TexRiv_63]

Mika,

This is a great time to buy a prewar car, especially 20s or early 30s. The original owners or restorers of these cars are dying off, the interest level in them is low among younger hobbyists, and the lousy economy is bringing more to the market at realistic prices. As always, closed cars are much more affordable than open ones and the amount of work you are willing to do will determine how much car you can get for your money. Go for it and good luck!

[Mika Jaakkola]

Thanks for the great replies guys, thanks!

What I began to worry is where to get parts for (for example) Pierce-Arrow or Auburn ?

I guess the Kanter doesn't help me on that one.

Packard might be easier on that ?

Am I worrying too much? I saw used distributor caps for PA on ebay from $400-$600 ... brake parts? No avail?

Steve, how about parts on Franklins? I guess you'd be the best one to answer? And you almost got me. Franklins looooook so greeaat!

For the first time I really have looked the prewar cars (classics) and i really like the 4door club sedan -body style.

look what I've found:

http://www.nepclassiccars.com/packardstandardeight.htm

That's interesting

[jeff_a]

Mika,

You have a good question. I think what you are asking is, "Instead of buying the usual kind of American collector car that you see at car shows, maybe I could buy an <span style="font-style: italic">unusual</span> car that is more rare. Maybe I could buy a drivable/restoreable pre-1938 car that needs work for about the same cost as a better-condition post-1938 car. But what should that be?"

I appreciate that you live in Finland and probably have to translate your words from Finnish into English. I notice that there are several people from Finland who post messages on the AACA forums.

You can select any type of antique car you want, of course, which makes your question so interesting. Have you considered a Peerless? The reason I ask is that there are already 2 in Finland, maybe 3.

Good luck in your enquiries about various makes of cars to purchase! ----Jeff Brown

[Steve Braverman]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mika Jaakkola</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Steve, how about parts on Franklins? I guess you'd be the best one to answer? And you almost got me. Franklins looooook so greeaat!</div></div>

Franklin parts are not hard to find if you know where to look. The Franklin club is a very good network of people. When I needed a tune up, a trip to Pep Boys (large chain parts store) got me a set of points and a distributor cap. They are the same as Chevy. Internal engine parts are available from Egge Machine.

I drive my car a lot, and have had very good luck with it. If you are serious about a Franklin, make the trip to the Franklin Trek this summer. You will be able to see, ride, and probably drive most of the different years and models. You may even go home with a car. We currently have members with Franklins in most European countries.

[Guest abh3usn]

I would look at cars such as a 1931 Hudson, 1934 LaSalle, 1934 Packard pheaton, 1929 Cadillac, 1929 Studebaker, 1934 Hudsons are goregous, 1939 Cadillac, 1939 Buick, 1937 Lincoln Model K, 1930 Lincoln ..

[TexRiv_63]

Mika,

Your concern about parts is a valid one. Pierce Arrow parts are hard to find, especially for a one year model like my 28. The 29 to 37 cars are better supported and repro parts are available. You will always be better off with cars from companies that survived as more parts were made to keep the older cars going. Whatever you decide, join the clubs that match your choice, those are the folks who have the parts and knowledge.

[Mika Jaakkola]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jeff_a</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mika,

You have a good question. I think what you are asking is, "Instead of buying the usual kind of American collector car that you see at car shows, maybe I could buy an <span style="font-style: italic">unusual</span> car that is more rare. Maybe I could buy a drivable/restoreable pre-1938 car that needs work for about the same cost as a better-condition post-1938 car. But what should that be?"

I appreciate that you live in Finland and probably have to translate your words from Finnish into English.

</div></div>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Jeff, I'll tell you a secret, I use Google translator </span>

Just kidding! Seriously, we finns study english since the third grade. You said the thing I have in mind. Too bad I couldn't even say it as good in finnish than you did in english

[Mika Jaakkola]

Steve,

again, thanks for the comment. I have really had lot's of information to decide what make should i look after and what things should I consider.

The most important thing for me is to get on the road as soon as possible, and keep it on the road. Really drive the car(on summer months). The car don't have to look like new, I have a rest of my life time to do the cosmetics

[TG57Roadmaster]

Hyvää päivää Mika,

How exciting to start the search for a prewar car; it's a wide-open field, with great variety available. I echo the choices others here have made, and recommend a '39-'41 Cadillac Fleetwood. We missed picking up a really nice '41 60-Special for about $12,000 that would have been a fine driver/project car; I still regret it!

A Fleetwood or 62 Series Caddy of that era qualifies for CCCA, too, and mechanical parts are fairly easy to find. The cars are visually stunning and easy to drive, to boot. The further you reach into "orphan" territory, the harder the parts are to find.

A search engine I use often is jaxed.com, that lists all current (and recently ended) ebay and Craigslist offerings. Don't hesitate to call on your "network" here to inspect any cars offered in the U.S. before you committ to a purchase; we have a far-flung bunch of motorheads across the continent that love looking at cars!

Good luck, ja nauttia metsästää!

TG

[Mika Jaakkola]

hahaha, TG, why in the world shoud I "enjoy hunting" ?

Nice post though And thanks for the tips.

A Cadillac? I think it's too ordinary? I might go for a Packard?

Though I don't have a "man who owns one" I could ask from

[Mika Jaakkola]

Oh, now I got it. About hunting a car I though you ment "Nauttia kesästä"

[Guest brockway]

Go for it Mika !

Now is the buyers market and time for sweat deals. If you want to buy a pre-war car then it might be wise to first buy a Model T or A and learn the basics of technical side and maintenance. I'm not an vintage car expert but I bet many things were done differently back then. Searching for parts might also be difficult especially for orphan makes.

For my taste late 20's cars are perhaps aesthetically best looking and offer more comfort, ride and technology (front brakes, electric start etc.) than 1910's or early 1920's cars. They are now sold in very reasonable prices. It is good for the buyer but on the other hand it's a shame to see them go at so low-prices. There is simply not much interest towards antique cars. Buying an antique car is therefore not an good investment option unless it is a known quality brand. Pierce-Arrow produced very good cars. There is one P-A Coupe project car for sale at Old Cars World company (in Finland). Maybe you want to check it out.

Maybe one day I'll buy a pre-war car too but now I have too many projects going on

[TG57Roadmaster]

Mika,

I guess <span style="font-style: italic">nauttia metsästää</span> got a little lost in the translation...glad you figured it out!

You might not want to let Cad-LaSalle owners that their cars are "too ordinary."

Regardless, there are some very fine cars out there to choose from.

TG

[poci1957]

Hello Mika, just a thought on this, since you have Chrysler products a 1938-48 Chrysler or DeSoto might be a good buy for you. As stated above, a lot of older owners are leaving the hobby and these quality cars are not hot items among younger buyers, so (if you find one) they can be bought cheap, often in nice partly-original condition, garaged for years but dirty and just waiting for some care and upkeep. The mechanicals would be familiar to you, the style is nice inside and outside and you would not have to worry about wood body parts, vacuum tank fuel systems, etc.

If you do want something different, maybe a 1936-41 Packard 120 or a 4dr Buick, Olds or LaSalle? Anyway, I agree there are lots of possibilities, enjoy the hunt and good luck, Todd

[jeff_a]

Mika,

I'm glad I understood your questions and comments correctly about finding an earlier collector car. It looks like you are getting a good response from the other forum members. Your mention of the issue of parts availability shows some good judgement, I think. If that was your main concern, you might want to consider a Ford. However, even a Model A, which you can still buy hundreds of new parts for, has some parts which are no longer made (engine block, frame, torque tube, some body panels).

Have you ever looked at brockway's Vintage Ad Album, located at the bottom of his posts? Raul Valkila has two interesting old cars listed under "A place in Lahti, Finland". One is a great-looking Chrysler {looks a little like a 1934 Airflow}; and the other, photo #1625, is a rough-looking "mystery car" {looks a little like a 1929 Peerless}. These autos might not be for sale...but at least they're in the same country as you!

[Curti]

If you decide on a 1934 - 1936 Auburn, almost everything is available. Even the radios have been reproduced, and a good one at that.

[Mika Jaakkola]

Thanks for the replies again. This has started to feel quite difficult.

The problem is that - at least for me, even $10 000 is quite lot's of money to send someone overseas that you haven't ever even met and hope that the car REALLY is there.

Also, in my price range, or higher, the seller might be more anxious to get the car sold "without problems". I mean without the buyer hassling with transportation or funds sending issues.

Seems that this would be lot's easier with budget of $1000

Well, have to keep on trying.

[Guest Orphanauto]

Since you are overseas, the best thing to do is have someone in here check the car out for you when you find one you are interested in. There are people who do that for a living, aldso, check on how much it will cost to have it shipped, that will give you an idea of how much budget you have, best of luck...

[Mika Jaakkola]

I guess I made some progress today. More on this topic shortly

[Guest AlK]

Mika

I PM'd you

[Mika Jaakkola]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AlK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mika

I PM'd you </div></div>

AIK, thanks, mail'd you back

[Guest AlK]

MIKA

I understand completly. Let me know if you ever change your

mind

Good luck

ALK

[Mika Jaakkola]

Thanks again for helping me out on this one. I should get my classic home in couple of weeks, so I will post more information then. :-P before that, I keep you all excited

[Guest StrombergEE3]

Strongly recommend you attend car shows, "bug" owners, and beg rides BEFORE buying anything. You need to think hard about what you want a so called "collector car" for. Most of us will be delighted to answer your questions, and help you develop info. so you can make an intelligent choice.

If you came up to me personally with your question at a car show, the first thing I would want you to get educated on, is how much automotive technology changed in the 1930's, to reflect the dramatic changes in driving conditions as road conditions improved.

Let me give you an example of how dramatic the technological changes were.

A 1931 car was essentially a motor-powered wagon, with wood frame, "buggy" springs, and could not handle sustained speeds of over, oh, say 45 mph. Its un-powered mechanical brakes did not produce the stopping distances we have today.

A 1941 luxury car could be ordered with factory air, thermostatically controlled forced air heating, power windows, independant front suspension. It has a modern welded all-steel body. Its combination of a "high-speed" rear axle gearing, four speed automatic transmission, "insert" style connecting rod bearings, and pressurized cooling system, will enable you to drive 90-100 mph all day long in quiet pleasant comfort. Its hydraulic brakes would give you stopping distances almost as good as today's cars.

Understanding how automotive technology evolved, and how that relates to what YOUR personal needs and desires are, is crucial to making an intelligent decision as to what is a good collector car for you !

Edited August 30, 2009 by StrombergEE3 (see edit history)

[Guest dgiorgi]

Hi, Here is my 2 cents for what it's worth. Fords have all the repros you will ever need , but I always favored the entire MoPar line because they have ALL steel bodies , original hydraulic brakes, rubber motor mounts and all 32-34's have the very small windows which appear to have been chopped. The frames on these cars are super strong. Of course the classic Cadillac's, Packards, Cords, and Auburn's along with several others still used the metal over wood and if you love antique autos, you have to admire the wookmanship of these fine autos. If you do decide to go this route , depending on your talent and or money they are always a fine investment.In fack I think they all are. There is a beautiful all original 32 Auburn coupe for sale on eBay now. I wish I could buy them all...Good luck in your quest.