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Help me say yes!!


Dangeroso

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Huge fan of the Reatta since I was a wee lad in high school when it came out. Here's the thing. I found a 1990 for sale in my area. It is the coupe, no sunroof. It rode very well on the test drive. The following are wrong with it. Very minor rust, solid body, interior I would say very good. The tape deck doesn't work, one of the headlight motors is out, the ac does not work, the plastic piece where the horn is fell off, the pinstripping is a bit worn, leather seats have no tears but a little cracking, the steering wheel isn't 100% sturdy could use a tightening, I turned on the defrost and the light didn't come on, rear seemed to work fine, it has 118,000 miles, tires look fine. It's a nice car but I need to figure out what a good price would be. Can anyone give me a ballpark?

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Guest daveagain909

$1500 I do not like rust and it has a lot of problems, I would look else where. Where do you live? and about how much do you want to pay?

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Ohio, so rust here is unfortunately normal. It is minor though. No holes or anything. She's asking $2,000 for it. Which I am very afraid of. I was thinking $1,500 like you said myself but I didn't want to offend. The issues, air, headlamps, and minor cosmetics am I looking into too much effort even at $1,500? I want to keep it as original as possible.

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The expensive part is the a/c, if it has the original compressor it probably needs to be replaced. The rest just sounds like it has had little maintenance which is a worry in itself.

"Very minor rust" depends on what you are used to. My 90 'vert could be described that way, I spent two days underneath with a wire brush, emory tape, and rustolium, & almost passed on the car despite being "solid" but the price was right, had under 100k, presented well, all major components worked, and was local. Even so I have repaired/replaced more than I expected & is ongoing.

This has always been my experience & would figure at least a week on a class 2 car to get it "right".

My rule of thumb is that a Reatta coupe is going to cost between $4k and $5k in 1Q09. You can pay it up front and enjoy now or in installments which will probably total more. Your choice. Do you enjoy working on cars ? Have a garage ? Feel comfortable with a DVM ? Have a high speed Internet connection ? If so a Reatta can be a hobby, learning experience, and a lifestyle as well as a car.

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I forgot the cruise is not working either. So, I am looking at paying a few bucks it looks like. Damn damn damn. It is such a rare find in this area. So I know I would be putting a good 3-4 into it which I am not sure about. Why couldn't it look like some of yours in the pictures "out of the box" lol.

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$2K for a 118K car is a decent deal. If you live where there is rust, you can probably go until August to get the AC fixed.

The other problems you noted are not that difficult to fix.

If you could get it for $1500 that is even better.

There was a grey and a silver exterior. The grey is very low production and with blue interior even lower.

If it is silver there were 579 made, if grey there were 411 made.

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See now you're talking me into it. I would have to say it was the grey color the interior is for sure the light blue. I just don't think I could pass at $1,500 the other 500 can go to fix something is the way I am thinking at least. The owner told me she doesn't even notice the ac with the windows down in the summer.

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Guest jamhudson

If you can do all the work your self like I could I would buy it. If you have to rely on someone else don't buy it unless you have more money you want to spend on it. As for me being retired with a warm shop to work in with plenty of tools and lifts I would enjoy working on it. Working on it in the drive way are a cold car shed would be no fun to me. You will find plenty to fix on most 4 and 5 thousand dollar cars but for the most part you can ride now and tinker later.

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Guest CL_Reatta

Heres my 2 cents... I paid $1800 for my car a few years ago... 180k at the time, NO RUST AT ALL (im in Michigan... more rust here than ohio) that price included a new headliner, and radiator.... I had no issues other than the sunroof... $2k is a bit steep for that car. I would offer $1500... after telling the prices of all the items that need to be fixed (which will add up to $500) then go up to $1750... say $1800 if a free tank of gas is included or something small like that... Reatta's dont rust much.. even in the rust belt, you can find a much nicer Reatta for $2k if you look

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dangeroso</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah absolutely valid point. I don't think the owner appreciated the car as a collectors car. It's a shame honestly. Your 88 looks amazing by the way. </div></div>Thanks. It is a pretty nice car. It has all original paint and has a nice interior. On close inspection it has some spider webbing to the clear coat and a few rock chips on the front but overall a nice car.

When I got it some of the usual things were wrong. The accumulator needed replacement, headlight motors rebuilt, and it needed front brake pads, and rotors. I replaced a lot of other parts as a precaution such as the dogbone, rebuilt the alternator and replaced all the fluids and filters. I have put a lot of work into it but I'm happy knowing I have a nice, solid Sunday driver. I probably have more money in it than I should by standards in some areas, but in my area, nice Reattas are harder to come by and therefore bring a higher price.

Like others have said, unless you are able to do most of the work yourself you might be better off spending more money up front and get a better car that you will be happier with. It just depends on how nice you want your Reatta to be.

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Guest MauiWowee

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> There will always be another... </div></div>

That is exactly right. Don't be in a hurry. You say "rust" and everyone here has their own horrible mental picture of an example. The thing is, there are some dangerous structural problems that occur with even moderate underbody rust. The cradle for example. Be prepared to travel for a good car. Some of the issues this car has can be taken care of for less money than you think. Most shops sell you a new headlight motor. Here you can find out how to rebuild them and take care of the real culprit....the bellcrank. For less than $50. each.

Use JAXED to look for cars. Cars.com.

Good luck, and stick around. cool.gif

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Guest Bobby Valines

I always ask over the phone. ( whats the lowest price you will take for the car ) If your a OK mechanic and have tools and a garage I would say go for it, there cool cars, people here will help as much as they can to get your 20 yo. car to run right. If your not good at working on cars you have no business buying a 20 yo. car.( you'll go broke keeping it up ) The thing you got to ask yourself can I fix this car with out spending a ton of money.

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Wooohoooo! Yes that is sharp looking. I sent the seller an email asking about it. It's a bit of a drive there but going back in the Reatta would be worth it.

All of you have been very helpful. Once I find one right for me I would be proud to be a member of this club. You really look out for people. I have seen many of these clubs where they ignore the newbies completely. I really appreciate all of your help. Now, I may be back asking more questions if I need more help on this one. grin.gif

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Dangerosa,Is this car in Westlake by any chance?................The car Maui Wowee posted previously here looks good,and the pro's are ;original owner,non-smoker,"no Known problems,no rust"?That car is in Kirtland which is east of Cleveland.I live in North Royalton if I can be of any assistance. We have a pretty good chapter of the Buick Club in north-east Ohio. Good Luck.

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Yes the car is in fact in Westlake. That is where I am from. Did you see the listing on Craigslist? I was so excited to find one 5 minutes away from me. I seriously think it is a gorgeous car, but I don't know that I want to put that kind of cash into fixing it myself. I guess my school of thought is I like to break things on my own. LOL

The one that Wowee put up looks solid. It says moonroof option too, but you just can't really tell from the pictures, which would be a pretty nice bonus too. I did send out an email to the seller. I sure hope he replies. Funny thing is my wife and I were just out around Kirtland on Monday! It's a bit of a hike, maybe a little over an hour but with my trusty GPS it makes it a lot better. I hope I can go check it out Sunday.

Thanks for everything!

Jason

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It says moonroof option too, but you just can't really tell from the pictures, which would be a pretty nice bonus too.</div></div>I don't want to be such a downer but keep in mind that a sunroof can be a potential source of problems that can be expensive to fix. They are also a place you need to look at carefully for rust before purchasing the car. They have their own rust problems even if the rest of the car doesn't. Read all you can here on the forums about sunroofs to arm yourself with information about potential problems with sunroofs so you will know what to look out for before purchasing cars with sunroofs. There is a recent thread started here about sunroofs that will help you a lot.

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Well if there is anything else you would like to know I will try to jog my memory.

Cruise not working

Air not working

right light motor not working

that plastic piece on the horn broken

cassette not working

Steering wheen tilt felt a little loose

That's all I got though.

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There are two things that bother me about this car.

First is the cradle bolts, when you said minor rust.

Check them!!!!!

Secondly the steering wheel. to tighten it is not a job for an amateur and it can be dangerous. The tilt unit becomes loose and one or more bolts can come out.(there are only three)

You did not say anthing about the windshield. is it crack free?

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Guest imported_barra

Reattas don't "sit" well. this one has been driven slightly more than 5000 a year. I bought an 89 for $2500 and put almost $3000 in it and it still needed the ABS teves unit replaced. At its current age, things like the gasket between the intake manifold and the thermostat start to deteriorate. People drive these cars and ignore the things that need fixed until it is very expensive to restore it to an enjoyable experience level. There are better ones out there for about the same price.

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I like having a roof-vent but it gets hot here. Keep in mind that the moon-roof also reduces the headroom so sit in one if you have a long torso and like to sit upright. There are ways to get another 1/2" without major surgery but that is about it.

Is the standard seat any lower than the 16-way ?

My 88 has a number of extra touches not found in other years and really wish some were on the '90. GM has a habit of bringing a new car out with the kitchen sink and then decontenting slightly in successive years. The 91 does have enough improvements in the powertrain to make that worth it so my ideal collection would be an 88 coupe and a 91 'vert but not there yet.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Padgett,

What did the 88 have that make you like it over the 89? I believe it could have suede on the sides of the seats, a piston to open the glove box, the gas filler and trunk opener switches under the tape deck instead of in the glove box. But the lack of the keyless entry system makes me prefer the 89. Are there more differences between the two I don’t know about?

Mike McDonald

Space Coast, FL

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Biggest annoyance on the 90 is the lack of the keyless glovebox. Leaving the top down means locking the glovebox and to add gas you have to unlock the glove box, open it, push the button, lock it again, etc. Sometimes I just use the manual release in the trunk. Am thinking strongly about adding another gas door button next to the tonneau release.

It also does not seem to have a headlamp retract button which is very useful when working on the headlamps. Has anyone ever added an 88 button panel to a 90 ?

Have had a RKE unit for several years for the 88 but just have never gotten around to adding it. Wiring is not that difficult.

Suede was limited to the first thousand or so 88s and the sunroof option was added later (mine is a June 88 car). Must admit I also like the early console design better, have no need for a coin holder and with no place to put a cup holder on the 90, a 91 armrest is necessary

And of course the 88-89 touchscream/digital dash is not only fascinating but more informative and seems more reliable than the 90-91.

Under the hood it is much easier to change the serpentine belt on an 88 but the later cars have an improved timing chain and every year the 440T4/4T60 trans was made stronger. Of course the real improvement was the 91 "L" engine, 4T60E trans, and Delco ABS.

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