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Tow Vehicle Recommendation -- Dodge Ram?


scott12180

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Hi all,

I'm going to look at a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Cummins Turbo Diesel (12 valve) engine. The truck has nearly 200,000 miles on it. It appears to be very clean and well taken care of, but I don't know the history.

I've heard that these engines suffer fuel pump failures at high milage and this is a $1500 repair. Any comments on if this is true? Anything else to be aware of?

Is 200,000 miles alot for this truck? I don't want to be continually doing repairs. Or are these things pretty tough?

--Scott

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Guest imported_Matt M, PA

I can't speak for the durability of the Dodge diesels. My guess is that they are as dependable into the higher mileage area as the Fords or GMs.

My bigger concern would be that the entire truck has 200,000 miles. And, it's 11 years old. Lots of things wear out simply due to age. And, the mileage means everything has worn simply from use...regardless of how well it was maintained. The transmission, joints, springs, steering, etc...even the seats will have been worn.

Unless you plan to tow alot...maybe you could set your sights on a younger, less miled gasoline powered truck?

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Hi Scott,

I've had my newest Dodge about three weeks. I looked at about six Dodges recently before settling on a nice one. My biggest concern was rust, which almost all of them had.

I looked at some diesels, but the price was almost double that of a comparable gas job. I bought a 2001 with a V8 and 105k miles. The one diesel unit I liked was a 1999 with 70k miles for $16k. I paid $9k for my 2001. So far I like it a lot. The front end is a little loose, but I think it's the track bar, which can wear out in 50k miles, and is an easy repair. (there is a cheap rebuild kit for the track bar)

My first Dodge was a '94 V8 with 235k miles on it. They can run for a very long time, but at that age and mileage, things do start to break rather frequently.

If the price is right on the truck you are looking at, give it a good looking over. Rust is a major concern with these trucks. They also tend to have AC evaporator failures which runs about $800 to fix.

As much as I wanted a diesel, I couldn't justify the extra expense. The 5.9L V8 is a proven and durable engine that tows well. The new 5.7 Hemi is a beast although the long-term durability is unknown.

Good luck, and let me know how you do.

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My '99 Dodge Turbo Diesel just turned over 200 thou, likely about 25 thou of that was towing a large trailer with heavy antiques aboard. In my opinion it is the perfect tow vehicle. Just pulled a 24ft enclosed trailer 450 miles with a 5000# car on board and averaged 14 mpg. I would never buy one with an automatic trans for towing. My Son has a 2001 6 speed which is even better.

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I have a '98 Ram 2500 4x4 extended cab, long bed that I bought 18 months ago with 65,000 miles. It's a gas V8 (5.9L) and I often long for a diesel to get up hills with a full bed. A small-block just isn't enough to move all this steel, even when it's empty.

Things that have recently needed attention on my 65,000 mile Ram are the brakes (all-new calipers pads, rotors, front hubs/bearings, rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders--about $1000 with 2 long days of my labor being free), U-joints, both in the driveshaft and the front axles, and some A/C repairs. Also, my driver's seat is caved in--I suspect the previous owner weighed north of 450 pounds.

The Rams are notorious for weak transmissions, but the diesels don't use the modified Torqueflite that the gas models do, so I can't speak to that. I did install a monster transmission oil cooler to help keep it alive. And the door bottoms rust quickly on every single truck--I fixed the passenger's side last April and will do the driver's side next spring.

The bottom line is that the heavy-duty 2500s need expensive parts when they break, and stuff does wear out eventually. I understand that the diesel engine itself is virtually indestructible, but everything else around it is aged and used at 200K. Be prepared for ancilliary stuff to go wrong at that mileage.

Nevertheless, the truck is plenty tough. I've hauled a pallet of concrete (50 80-pound bags), 3 yards of gravel, and pulled a trailer with my Mustang on it. It gets 10 MPG empty or full, but it hasn't skipped a beat yet and takes just about everything I've thrown at it. I won't say I'm a converted Dodge fan, but I am a 2500 fan--these suckers can <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">WORK.</span></span>

Hope this helps.

PS: The headlights suck.

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We have our third Dodge Ram. First we had a V10 five-speed standard-shift Ram for my husband. Then we got a V8 automatic for me to haul my horses in a two-horse trailer. (We had both trucks at the same time.)

Now we have a 2004 2500 Dodge Ram Quad-cab six-speed standard-shift diesel. We haul a 35' combo car/camper trailer with it. We haul a Legends racecar in it with all the tools and extra parts and wheels/tires.

We LOVE this truck.

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Guest prof pat

What ever you do, do not get an auto trans, my 96' ram, with the 5.9 gas engine was more than good enough, however, I would pull a car trailer, loaded with one or another antique auto and blew the torque converter twice, at a cost of over, 2K each time, even with a large cooler. Great truck, very poor transmission to say the least.

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Apparently the transmissions are different on the V8 than the diesel/V10. Also, I've been told the trans was improved after '98. All are very expensive to replace or repair. I just had mine serviced at the dealer for about $200. Cheap insurance for a $3000 trans.

Also, I think after '99 they all got four wheel disc brakes, a big improvement.

Take care of it, and don't beat the crap out of it and it will run forever.

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The'99s are notorious for tearing up automatic transmissions. When I bought mine I had a tough time finding one with a standard trans. They always command a premium over automatics. Remember, the diesel version weighs over 7000# and like any piece of equipment actually designed and built to WORK rather than just look good, regular maintenance is mandatory and repairs are expensive. I have towed a 4000# trailer loaded with a 6000# '58 Cadillac Hearse from Daytona Beach back to PA, averaging 14mpg and seldom having to downshift lower than 4th gear. You also need to shoe them with properly rated tires. They will just tear up undersized or under rated tires. Unless towing a trailer I almost never use first gear, it's not necessary. I always feel safer knowing I have more than enough power and more than enough weight to control a fully loaded trailer. It's all relative though. My last tow vehicle was a Ford F150 6 cylinder and I managed to tow anything I needed to tow with that but I was younger and more foolish then.

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Our 2001 has done a great job. Its for the 5.9L V8/auto with factory tow package. I've upgraded shocks and done nothing else. Got around 60K on it now. Very comfortable and I like the looks too. Ive generally towed the Model T on an open trailer but It has hauled heavier stuff with ease. Gas consumption is reasonable for a truck and on a long haul with steady highway speeds I've managed 12-14 with it. That would certainly drop if I was moving a big Packard in a box.

Terry

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We bought a new '99 3500 Cummins Diesel dually with the five-speed manual trans. at the shop where I used to work.

I can’t say enough good things about that truck. I drove it pulling a 24 ft. box trailer with a 1941 Cadillac inside from Detroit to Bethlehem PA (Burn Concours) and the truck didn't even know the trailer/car was there. That truck went up and down the hills of PA with power to spare.

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I've got a '95 3500 diesel with auto trans. It's got 102,000. I had two seals in the transmission that rolled over therefore losing reverse and I believe it was 1st gear. I just replaced all the ball joints and control arm bushing because I knew the joint boots have been ripped for about a year and a half and there are no grease fittings on them. While the arms are off the truck went ahead an put in new bushings.

My truck gets used to tow an open trailer with my Chevy II or a 3,000 lbs slide-in camper with about a 1,500 lbs trailer in tow.

I've been pleased with my truck and wouldn't be interested in trading it. I special ordered mine and was thinking only of the current needs at that time. I should have gone for the entended cab and my sister nad brother-in-law moved to GA therefore wouldn't be using the camper therefore should have manual trans (my driving preferance although girlfriend wouldn't be able to drive the truck)

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injection pumps go bad, with the new low sulfer fuel the pumps do not get enough lubracation then they go bad, and the repalcement pumps are the same as the orignal at least that is what they told me on the last one i change about 1 week ago. usually change 2-3 pe month

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Scott the $1500 fuel pump failure are on the 1998.5 to 2002, with VP-44 and electronic fuel injection. the 12V you looking at should have that issue.

My 2001 with big injectors, large exhaust, some elctroinic upgrade to the fueling, and you squeeze 350 hp to the re wheels easy, the 12v can turn up to vary easily if you need some serious power in hill country. push the fuel plate forard or $100 you can get a numbe ber 10, it a slippery slope $$$$$$. Ask hoe i know, but in t Dodge is my second old car hobby.

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I have a 93 1 ton dually cummins diesel 5spd standard and it has 172K on it. I think it is just broken in. I had to have the clutch replaced 2 months ago, but then I was pretty hard on it. I have towed big Packards from Alabama to Ohio and New York, from Wisconsin to Ohio, New York and home. A 56 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer to Oklahoma and back, crush and run for driveways, concrete blocks, a home made pick up camper, this to me has been the greatist truck ever made. I know it will probably give up the ghost some day but may I no longer need it when it does. I'm not sure a big lottery win would get me out of this truck and into a new one.

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