Pickup Truck transport options

[Guest BJM]

I am going to get a truck and trailer early 2008 so that I can buy and pickup old car projects myself without relying on others or commercial transport.

My last truck was a 2000 Ford F150 with 4.3L V6 and I picked up a 54 Chrysler New Yorker from South Dakota with it and it did OK. On some hills coming back I had to downshift from 5 to 4 (it was a manual).

Other then what may only be a once or twice per year transport of vehicles, I will not need a full size truck, nor do I want one because of their greater girth, weight, length and slightly poorer gas mileage.

I want to get a Ford Ranger 4x4 with 4.0L V6 or an equivalent Toyota Tacoma, Nissan, or GMC Canyon. The GMC is my least favorite because of cheesy plastic interior but if the straight 6 has the most torque I would consider it.

My point is: would these smaller trucks be OK for 1-2 transports per year of the typical heavy 1940's to 1960's vehicles or am I just pushing it?

I know from experience that gas mileage is not a whole lot better with the "minis" so that's not a major concern. My other two uses for 4x4 are winter driving (in Iowa) and spring turkey hunting. I had a long wheelbase Chevy Silverado this past spring that got stuck hunting partly because it was so long, so that is another reason I am hoping to get a shorter wheelbase truck.

Your thoughts please.

[57plymouth]

You will be pushing it. The small trucks are not design to tow the weight of an old car. The engine and tranny isn't the worry, it's the tow vehicle weight and the brakes.

[Friartuck]

I also say that you would be pushing it. An article that explains trailering:

http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

Jake, I am going to encourage you to reconsider the long wheel bases. You have a lot of fishtailing with the short trucks. You will have to add load levelers and sway bars. Also, even with electric brakes on the trailer I like the added weight a full size gives. My 1996 Silverado has over 200,000 miles and probably about 1/4 of them are from pulling 4400 lb Roadmasters all over the country. Aside from brake pads the truck has never had a wrench on it. Not even the transmission. And I haul in overdrive until I get into hilly/mountinous country then I drop it down into 3rd. I've slept many a night in the camper bed and at 6'2" need that long bed to stretch out in. I would love to have a Z71 and am always on the lookout for a 2000 or so to trade for. But honestly as good as my 96 has been I am sorta afraid to let it go. So for stability and breaking I would suggest a full size.

Oh and another thing whatever you get pay attention to tongue weight when loading. I loaded a Century up one time, front end first and didn't have a engine and tranny in it. Had to stop about 50 miles down the road and reload it back end first to keep it from wanting to sway.

Oh and as far as gas mileage. With the 5.7, 14-15 LOADED, and that's at 70-75 mph interstate. Local roads around 12-13. you'll be hard pressed to beat that

[Guest BJM]

Well so far 0-3. I was hoping to get an off-new truck about two years old to avoid paying the ungodly sum the dealers seem to want for a new truck, BUT if I get a new truck maybe I can get a numerically lower axle ratio for better gas mileage when I am not hauling.

Thanks for all the good points - I had not considered the length as a positive. i knew about the concerns regarding brakes/transmission etc but thought maybe for the 1-2 times per year I would haul, they'd be OK.

[CarlLaFong]

GMC Canyon. The GMC is my least favorite because of cheesy plastic interior but if the straight 6 has the most torque I would consider it.

The GMC Canyon does not come with a six, inline or otherwise. 4 or 5 cylinder only

[jeff_a]

Jake,

You could always try the Tim Taylor approach and get a 10-year-old Dodge pickup with the six-cylinder Cummins diesel. This motor is noisy, and adds maybe 4 grand to the sticker price of a new truck, but I've pulled an 18,000-pound trailer over the continental divide using using one (in a '92 1-ton xtracab w/AT). This was a little bit of an overload, of course, but it would pull a car-hauler like it wasn't there. Just my 2 cents.

It would be kind of cool if you could go to big auctions with a 2-car trailer and a big "for hire" sign on it & make a little money on your way back home. I suppose the catch would be that everyone wanting to use the trailer would want it going the wrong direction. ---Jeff

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Other then what may only be a once or twice per year transport of vehicles, I will not need a full size truck, nor do I want one because of their greater girth, weight, length and slightly poorer gas mileage. </div></div>

This is an excellent argument for not buying a truck at all. For such limited need it would be <span style="text-decoration: underline">vastly</span> more economical to <span style="text-decoration: underline">rent</span> a tow vehicle for the times you need one. Any U-Haul, Ryder, Budget, or Penske place will do. Also, for more local/shorter duration hauls it may be even more economical to rent the local Home Depot or Lowes truck for towing, although with them you'll have a lot less help setting up the tow rig.

It might cost as much as a couple hundred dollars for really long distance/duration hauling, but getting 12 mpg to buy milk every week will cost you <span style="font-style: italic">thou$and$</span> every year these days. Plug in the numbers for your use pattern in the vehicle-specific analysis forumulas at fueleconomy.gov to see just what these things cost to run.

Then you can buy a more use-appropriate vehicle for your other needs. I'd suggest a cheap/used 4x4 (Suzuki, Geo Tracker, Jeep Wrangler, Ford Ranger (my choice, parked next to the Prius in the driveway!), etc.) for winter/hunting coupled with a car that gets good mileage. The fuel savings alone could easily be the difference between driving a used truck and a new car.

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave@Moon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Plug in the numbers for your use pattern in the vehicle-specific analysis forumulas at fueleconomy.gov to see just what these things cost to run. </div></div>

I just went to their site to see if the larger, tow-appropriate trucks are listed and for the most part they are not. The Ford F150, Chevy 1500, and Dodge 1500 are the biggest trucks they list. Most people I know prefer to go up one size larger at least for the greater tow rating (i.e. F250, etc.).

However, a quick comparison of the F150 4WD with the Honda Civic Hybrid (@ 15K miles/yr., $2.80/gal) shows a fuel savings of $1800 per year, or about 1/3 the cost of the payments on the Civic. The difference between the Civic and a heavier truck will be even more, especially for an older model.

It's something to consider.

[FomocoService]

I wouldn't try towing an old car with a mid-sized pickup..

For one the old car would in most cases weigh more than the truck- not even counting the trailer.

A higher set of gears will help you on the interstate,but starting off you don't go anywhere very fast.

A friend had a 99 F-150 V8 auto, with a set of 3.08 gears ... once you got rolling you were fine, but getting started was 0-60 in about 4 miles. Not to mention he had to start off in low and shift the trans like a manual tranny.

I've got a '06 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and 3.55 gears. I average about 18mpg on the interstate with a car and trailer. (But we have flatlands here in FL)

I drive my '56 in town and trips where I don't need to haul anything. 25 in town/28mpg highway.. not bad for a 3100 lb car with 51 yr old technology!

[Jim Bollman]

I'll add my vote for nothing smaller than a full size pickup. I towed my Crosley on a trailer, much lighter than what you are planing, with my 1998 F150 V6 5 speed, no problem. I would have had no problem with a somewhat larger car on an open trailer as long as I was only taking on Eastern style mountains or flat lands. I ran into a problem when I wanted yo haul the tailer and a slide in camper. I did it locally but it was working very hard and I would not have done it in the hills or long distance.

I just replace the 98 with a 2000 F250 diesel 6 speed. I have only put 2000 miles on the new truck but I'm already impressed. Better fuel economy a trips by several MPG, better local driving by a couple of mpg. I did a 600 mile trip last weekend with the camper and trailer and got better mpg than the F150 did with just the camper. All that with a very stable feel and no down shifting for every little hill.

I bought the F250 out of the salt belt so it is in great shape, I fell into a low milage for a diesel (65000 miles) by shopping around on the internet (AutoTrader). I end up spending a bought what I was expecting to spend on an F150 with a V8 (maybe a year or two newer with comparable miles).

[RocketDude]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 58Mustang</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The GMC Canyon does not come with a six, inline or otherwise. 4 or 5 cylinder only</div></div>

Hold off for a couple more months. The Canyon/Colorado will have a 5.3 V-8 available in Feb '08. I will be standing at the dealership with my checkbook as soon as the first one hits the floor....

[imported_buick5563]

I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 (that's a Ford Ranger with a 4 liter V-6).

I have hauled a 16 foot trailer with cedar logs before, but I got pulled over when I tried to pull the back end of a 60 Cadillac due to the fact that the Officer couldn't even see my truck's mirrors. I know that I should have had towing mirrors on it, but even when empty, you are REALLY pushing the truck's transmission and brakes. Engine not that big a problem and Mazda claims something like 7000 lb towing capacity... bunk. They also claim 20 plus on the highway. Nope. Even empty.

I like my truck, it's the second "Ranger" I have owned, but I bought it so I wouldn't have to haul giant loads of plywood or refuse when I remodel. I like having to call for deliveries or trash pickup (or auto transport). It's safer and for me more cost effective.

My boss has a Dodge dually 3500 that he is running 100% biodiesel, so I can see where a diesel COULD be more "non foreign oil dependant" but I don't personally want to spend 60 grand on a truck.

But then again, I'm lazy

Mike

[charlier]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BJM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to get a Ford Ranger 4x4 with 4.0L V6 or an equivalent Toyota Tacoma, Nissan, or GMC Canyon. The GMC is my least favorite because of cheesy plastic interior but if the straight 6 has the most torque I would consider it.

My point is: would these smaller trucks be OK for 1-2 transports per year of the typical heavy 1940's to 1960's vehicles or am I just pushing it? </div></div>

It might be prudent on your part to make sure that the weight of your trailer and the vehicle you intend to tow are within the published towing capacity and ratings of the tow vehicle. If the weights are not within the towing capacity and you are involved in an accident you could have serious legal & financial problems as a result.

[Guest 4buick7]

I would definitely recommend a full size truck for towing automobiles. Since it's a once or twice a year thing a 1/2 ton should be adequate. It would be able to handle the towing and still be comfortably used as a daily driver. I would not be comfortable towing a full-sized car with a mini-truck. You would be exceeding most if not all the maximum limits the truck was designed for. Also, your choices would tend to be wider looking for a full sized truck in most used car markets. I also feel a short bed works just as well as a long bed. Several responses have indicated a long bed is the only way to go as you should have as long a wheelbase as possible for towing. Don't forget that most full-size trucks sold in the past 10 years have super-cabs, quad-cabs, etc which increases the wheelbase exclusive of the bed length. My quad cab short bed Dodge has a wheelbase similiar to my old regular cab longbed Ford. I tow an enclosed trailer and the ride quality is not a problem.

[novaman]

The biggest thing with the shorter WB of a 6' box over a 8' box is ride comfort. I've towed my trailer with a '76 GMC 6' stepside and a 80's something (forgot the year) Dodge with a 6' box. I use an equalizer hitch. I never ahd any problems and I actully perfer the shorter WB. Now, with the shorter WB I'm not refering it using a mid-size or small truck because as stated before, you'd be over the max limits.

[Guest BJM]

Well Dave, I have many reasons for a pickup other then the twice per year anticipated project vehicle transports. I also need a truck to haul and pickup house items and I do quite a bit of hunting and hiking and would rather not be stuck back in the boonies because I did not have 4x4. of course, 4x4 can be had in an SUV and there are a couple of those I like (Jeep Commander) but then why get an SUV with 4x4 when you can get a truck?

Also we have inclement weather up here so 4x4 is needed a few times in the winter and finally I need a truck to haul heavy parts back and forth to the machine shop. Bottom line is if you need a truck and you do not have it, then it does you no good so it's best to have one around that meets all requirements. That's pretty much why I was trying to get a "so called mini" truck like the Ranger or Colorado, etc.

[Guest BJM]

Rocketdude,

That's about the time I was considering looking too, about 6 months from now. Thanks. That certainly is a big enough motor for hauling as my 4.3L V6 F150 did the job before. The question would be brakes, transmission, etc - it will take some looking into, careful thought - comparison in length and etc.

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BJM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well Dave, I have many reasons for a pickup other then the twice per year anticipated project vehicle transports..... Bottom line is if you need a truck and you do not have it, then it does you no good so it's best to have one around that meets all requirements. That's pretty much why I was trying to get a "so called mini" truck like the Ranger or Colorado, etc. </div></div>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'd suggest a cheap/used 4x4 (Suzuki, Geo Tracker, Jeep Wrangler, <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #CC0000">Ford Ranger</span></span> (<span style="text-decoration: underline">my choice, parked next to the Prius in the driveway!</span>)</span>, etc.) for winter/hunting coupled with a car that gets good mileage. The fuel savings alone could easily be the difference between driving a used truck and a new car. </div></div>

I use the Ranger almost exclusively for hauling. It gets about 2000 miles/yr.

[Guest BJM]

I currently own a 87 Mazda B2600 4x4 with "only" 94,000 miles but I am constantly fixing something on it. I am sure it would probably be OK for local hauling for a few more years but anything outside of a 50 miles radius could be iffy. I have not ruled out the option you mention, but every time I call about renting a dolly, a truck or something, I get grilled on use and am worried about getting in trouble for non acceptable use.

All of the non ownership of a truck/trailer options can lead to hand wringing and schedule issues. YOU are counting on someone else to "come through" with the rental.

Meanwhile someone who has a sweet set up ready to go has no issues bidding on something on ebay or going to an auction ready to buy, no I prefer convenience over trying to arrange a costly rental hoping everything will work out.

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BJM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Meanwhile someone who has a sweet set up ready to go has no issues bidding on something on ebay or going to an auction ready to buy, no I prefer convenience over trying to arrange a costly rental hoping everything will work out. </div></div>

I'd like to hear your significant others opinion on that strategy in about 2 years. I don't know how many times I have heard Rita exclaim "I'm gonna...sell/have someone steal/ set fire to... that &%^#$&%&*$$* trailer some day if you don't stop buying so much junk!!! My reply to that is generally, "I'd like to have seen you haul those 5500 brick out in the patio in your Volvo Wagon."

Personally, if I could find a 98-2000 Suburban with around 80-90,000 miles and had some way of knowing that it would be as trouble free in the next 100,000 miles as my Silverado has been, I would trade for it. I've had a camper shell on mine since it was new and anytime I need to haul something bigger than will fit in it, I just hook up to the trailer and go. "Guys" drive trucks..."real men" pull trailers.

[Mark Shaw]

I too have a Chevy Silverado. Mine is a Z71 with a 5.3L V8. I get 20 mpg on the highway unloaded and about 13 mpg towing heavy Buicks.

Get a full size truck to tow vehicles. A half ton will work OK for open trailers...you might want a 3/4 ton for enclosed trailers...for the extra weight & wind resistance.

Keep it legal for your own good and everyone else on the road.

[Dave@Moon]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I prefer convenience over trying to arrange a costly rental hoping everything will work out. </div></div>

Fair enough. Just remember you're paying about $2000/year for this convenience whether you use it or not <span style="font-style: italic">just</span> in fuel costs. Five years of that, with the cost spread getting larger every year, and you've got yourself another decent Buick to show!