vintchry

Typically George, the welting as you call it or webbing as it is typically sold, goes under and over the aprons. I have seen it just under before, but not commonly. The webbing also goes under the hood shelves to their ends. Rob Burchill hattiesgarage@comcast.net

I have a Model 72. What size are your drums? emzee

Keiser, It does not appear to be an 8 cylinder Chrysler 31-32 as the shutters are an operating style and all of these appear to be fixed. The 6 cylinder is finer and capped with a stainless trim if I recall correctly. Had a 6 on the wall for years and finally found a good home for it so I can't send you photos. I don't believe this grille is Chrysler at all, but is very interesting. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Tom, That uses a spanner wrench that is included in the original tool kit. For the tool you can make one out of steel bar. Email me and I will forward a photo of mine. Common tool and most machine shop supply houses still offer them. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Sent you a pm. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

dbsb, I believe those are referred to as a "step" ring. They have been out of production since the early 30's. It doesn't mean you won't find a set, but they will be extremely difficult. I had a new set of pistons made for my 28 '62' at Aires(sp) Piston in CA. Very happy with the quality and fit. They now use a standard ring. Not an inexpensive venture but very well worth the price. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Sent you a pm. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Jack, that is a good question, but all seemed well in that regard, no issue on a hill rolling backward or forward after the brakes were applied. Rob

All, I am perplexed by an issue with this 52 Saratoga. A semi automatic, fluid level is correct and it acts like the emergency brake is on when backing up. Noises, clanking and a drag. The emergency brake is NOT staying or dragging. Is there a valve or port that is not releasing? I have not drained the transmission and added new 10wt non detergent. I do have that. Driving forward all is well, shifts nicely and even kicks down when asked to. When on my 4 post lift and the rear wheels raised enough to not touch the driveshaft will freely turn clockwise but not in the opposite direction. Thoughts? Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Bkgc5, Are you buying or selling? These are wonderful cars to drive, comfortable and easy to steer and brake. If it is a good original, getting it running and stopping is what I would do. Does it run and drive now? Rob

I have a wonderful unrestored 26 E80 serial EW013W. It was owned by a man from CT for many years, went to Maine and then I got it. What a car to drive and enjoy. Seems most of these went overseas and there are several in Australia and GB. PM me for photos etc. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Tom, I have 4 WW 7.50 x17 Tires. Denman take-offs very presentable and useable. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net 240.344.2922

Rooney, If you check on the HCCA (Horseless CarriageClub) website, there is a truck and trailer package for sale that is less money than buying just a good truck. It is not your trailer of choice but a good unit and should have been well cared for by the recently deceased owner, a respected brass tour guy. Go to classifieds and cars for sale. It is not on hte AACA forum. Good luck, Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Steve, I applaud you choice of trailer. Featherlite has provided a good, well built trailer but may be a little on the high side for what you are looking to do. Don't get me wrong - it is always smart to buy quality. My concern for you is your choice of tow vehicle. Even adding the safety of a gooseneck or 5th wheel unit, they are most stable with a dual wheeled truck. Take a look at the towing capacity of your truck and start adding up what the trailer and load will add. I go back to a former site on this forum about what tow vehicle should I get and I will stand firmly on BRAKING as the single most important aspect of what you are going to do. A heavy half ton (1500) does not offer a safe braking capability for towing anything approaching a gooseneck/5th wheel trailer. Think long and hard before venturing into a trailer of this size and weight. Your truck will certainly pull it but stopping is another matter. When the day comes and you are going down a mountain or long descent and you find the seat covers in your abdomen you will understand what I am saying. Always buy to stop, not pull. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Which series CD do you have? 1st, 2nd or Deluxe (3rd) I may have. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast/net

Dave, Plymouth and Dodge offered 20" wheels for Rural Mail delivery. Those appear to be 35-36 but I am aware they were offered up until at least 38. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Looks like a 24-26 Dodge. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

KMS. 28 Chrysler could be right as I did not see the engine area. If you have 6 bolt wheels/rims then it is an early series 60. They used the same dash as an early Chrysler 4 and the 50/52 series. Also the headlights are typical of the early 26 60 series. pm me and I will email you some photos of my original unrestored early 60 series touring. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

Henry, I sent you an email but incase it doesn't go thru, call me at 240-344-2922, am local and can see anytime. Rob

I think Chevrolet 4 , depending on the exhaust manifold (single port or 2 port) 26-28

VV, Since the headlights don't appear to have the glass jewels in them for high beam indicators they should be correct. You can have Depress Beam or Tiltray depending on production date. The reflector will tell you which you have if the lenses are incorrect. The fenders are correct. Sounds like you have a Business Coupe if it is a 3 window as the Sport Coupe has 5 windows and the rear window rolls down. Is your car complete? Are you intending to restore it? A friend recently purchased a Sport Coupe and is looking for a parts car if you are aware of any. I did have the center steering levers recast for the series 62 if you are restoring this. Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

What series 26 Chrysler are you asking about? There will be great variances depending on which model you have. Do you have an engine number or Fedco? Rob hattiesgarage@comcast.net

24 Roadster, I have used the Eastwood product with great success, but I buy the SS and the gray and mix them together to give a nicer look than either by itself. A little more expensive but a great look. Rob hattie's garage

Jake, On several of my cars there is a felt sealer, most of the time it is so oiled up it is hard to dimension but almost always is approx. 1/4" thick. The width is various as it winds its way along the frame and inner fender line. Typically is riveted in place and is always so oil soaked that color appears black. Check with McMaster Carr for product, also Restoration Specialties, in Windber PA and Restoration Supply in CA. Rob

I totally agree with TrulyVintage. Nobody talks about stopping. Your most important factor regardless of what you are towing. Almost anything will pull, most SUV's, 150 series pick up's and the current offering of import trucks will NOT stop you when the time is urgent and necessary for a life or death situation. Sorry guys, American iron of 250/2500 or larger gets the job done. Motor is entirely up to preference and 4x4 is dependent on your home terrain. Brakes should be your first concern, drw next, 2 or 4wd depending on your location and needs and cab size. Any normal size tall or average enclosed and all tag along open trailers fit in this planning. Age of the truck depends on your needs, comfort arrived in the 90's. Earlier stuff works well but is more truck like in ride and appointments. Rob