nickelroadster

The only thing that looked very good to me was the VanDerBrink auction outfit. Next time I have a large auction I know who I would like to hire as auctioneer.

There are several years of Nash that use an Autolite dual distributor. I believe they usually go for about $100 on ebay. Not aware of other cars tha tused this but tha tdoesn't mean there are not any.

nickelroadster stands for my 1915 Oldsmobile. It is a nickel car and it is a roadster so it kind of fits.

I suggest that you have a little patience. I would think that someone near bye would scoop this up. Patience, and good luck.

I would tell your mechanic that he should take plenty of pictures when he takes your car apart. I am not sure I wouldn't tell him it is his responsibility to find the correct way of putting it back together.

Chances are it will be darn near impossible to match paint that is eighty years old. You may be able to come up with something you could use, but only use it very sparingly. Not only is it going to be impossible to match the paint ingredients, The amount of fade will also be undoable. Solid colors can sometimes be somewhat matched, but anything with metallic or pearl would increase the difficulty exponentially.

It is probably a modifies Pontiac straight eight with lots of chrome pieces.

I thought you were supposed to post a price?

As long as you are having fun, it makes no difference. Every now and then you may want to re evaluate your holdings and your direction but as long as you don't die before you finish most of the stuff it is all right. I am at least as guilty as you and I just don't worry about it.

I would bead blast and get the part that needs nickel plating plated and then use a resin with black dye. Good place to get the resin is Micromark. You should be able to sand and polish to a proper sheen with this kind of material. Therre are quite a few door handles from the twenties that had this type of plastic finish.

I would also recommend Jason. He just rebuilt one of mine that is very similar to yours. Everything was as if it were a brand new unit.

For anyone who could use this stuff, that is a very fair price. You should be able to sell this.

There are fairly decent instructions for the Marvel carbs in a Dykes manual. If you don't have access to one I would suggest you use the advanced search feature on this website. There are numerous posts about Marvels that will tell you what to do. A lot of people cuss at these carbs but as Mark Shaw said ,they are really pretty simple and if you understand their operation they are pretty easy to deal with. It sounds like you have a starter problem if it is getting hot and quickly running down your battery. You might want to contact Jason at Advanced Electrical rebuilders. His forum name is startergenrebuilder

Make sure you get the old type of antifreeze. The green stuff is the best. Some of what is available for new cars will harm our oldd cars.

Easy to get. You just need to specify one or two contacts.

It would still be better to post a picture of it and let us know what it is off of. Imperfections in the paint could be original or they could be from a poor repaint. A picture of it would allow us to suggest a course of action if any.

I think I would offer it to the appraiser at a really good deal kind of a price, say $30000.

With a 2000 amp scale I don't think this is for an auto battery. I wouldn't like to be anywhere near those handles when that many amps were flowing.

In order to fully charge your battery, I think you should have 7or 8 volts from the charger. I would suggest using a battery tender or other maintainer to keep the battery at full charge. This will also add years to the life of your battery.

Well... The maxwell rear end looks rather different but if you enlarge the picture, the thrust bearing looks quite similar to what you will need.

The thrust bearing is the first bearing that is put into the differential. If you look into the differential half, it fits on a lip that is a few inches in. It is the same diameter (or very close to ) as the Hyatt roller bearing and is about 1/2" thick. The shims go in between the hyatt and the thrust bearing and are used to adjust the ring pinion clearance and the sideways play in the axle-differential unit. Did you drop the pinion gear off of the torque tube and check the thrust bearing there? It is very similar and possibly may be the same size. AS long as you have some clearance to play with the thickness of the thrust bearing could vary a little bit as you have some clearance to take out with shims. In later years they made this adjustment a whole lot easier with threaded spacers that could be change from the outside. Still it may help to show us pictures of your differential pieces that you do. have.

I suggest that you contact Jason at Advanced Electrical Rebuilders. He is on the site quite a bit and has just answered a query about a Delco generator in Wanted section.

Your last post came as I was typing. A model A you get for $15000 if carefully bought could be a very good car. Chances are a 33 v8 for under $30000 would require a lot of work and would be more expensive to work on.

We don't know your abilities and all these old cars require considerably more repair and maintenance than a modern car. If you are prepared to have an occasional breakdown and be able to fix things by the side of the road so much the better. You should be able to get a car in reasonable enough shape to drive a fair amount but I would not count on everyday use. For recreational use , and occasional errands fine but I wouldn't count on making any important appointments with them. The more you drive them and the more you learn about them, the more confidence you will acquire in their use. A Model A would be the best choice for cost and simplicity reasons. If you have to get a mechanic every time something goes wrong, it will soon become way to expensive to enjoy.

Great! Buicks and Oldmobiles from the fifties will give you a lot more car for the money than would a Chevrolet and would be a lot more interesting.