nickelroadster

I didn't say it before but by all means save this car. I have one that is probably identical (1927 E-75 Locke body sedan)and would buy it in a flash if I were near. This is worth saving!

Looks to be a double fire engine. Distributor is worth about that much. Actually looks to have many usable parts as the rust seems to be mostly surface. Would you happen to be able to get the serial # and chassis #? These cars had Fedco id plates on the dash.

I am still rather curious as to how the thing acts with a hot shutdown. How do the fuel pumps act with a hot shutdown? Are you unable to fill the float chambers up? I guess it may be hard to observe this until the hot weather gets here. I too am having a good time reading your extensive posts. It is almost like being there.

Where is your pump located? What style of pump is it, positive displacement, vane type or what? After a hot shutdown are you saying that running the pump for a few seconds does not fill the carbs? Is it boiling as soon as it pumps fuel in? Let us know where you take the fuel pressure. I guess you will have to look at it as a learning experience at this point it is not clear what all you have learned. I hope you are at least having a good time.

I would also agree with motoringicons about staying away from the company near Detroit that advertises nationally.

As I previously posted contact Russ Furstnow. He was selling completely rebuilt units for around $450 to $500 a couple of years ago. You should be able to get a firm quote from most anyone who is going to rebuild it.

You mention that the fuel will disappear even if no running of the engine takes place. It sort of sounds like you have a two part problem. Your efforts seem to have gone through most of the steps that anyone has suggested. Other than installing a special refrigeration unit with fuel recovery features I think that it may just be that you have to run the fuel pump for a few seconds to fill the bowl. Do you think that anything has improved with all the things that you have done? Keep on trying. Maybe the solution will come as a flash inspiration some time.

It is a Rolls. They can't make it too easy or it wouldn't be right. Alcohol just makes this problem worse. How open is the breather? I can see you having a problem with either the fuel boiling out or just evaporating. I am also enjoying your systematic approach to the problem. Maybe you just need to find alcohol free gas if that is possible in your area. keep us posted.

Lightening bolts were not put on Roosevelts until the fall of 1929 was what I meant to say.

Copper is not supposed to be double flared. Use the cunifer and it will look right and be safe.

I would think that the flame guard that you are installing is more of a fire shield than insulation although it does seem to have some insulation qualities. As last resorts you might try an insulator spacer under the carburetor or a bypass line back to the tank. A spacer should help with heat soak after you shut the engine off. Alcohol strikes again.

Also they did not put the lightening bolt on before the fall of 1929 so it should be later than that.

Also check the heads for flatness. This also gives you a chance to look at water passages in the heads and block that you wouldn't see otherwise.

Sorry. I posted before I looked. I thought I had removed the post.

Roosevelts shared some sheetmetal with model 68s which was only slightly larger. It may be difficult to differentiate without knowing the measurements. What leads you to believe that the shells go with some of the car parts. Are there any other parts you could show us? Can you tell what the wheelbase of the car is?

The radiator surround looks to be for a 29 to 30 Roosevelt

That Ford is not a thunderbird. It is a 1958 custom two door sedan, the same year that the square bird came out so that it looks a bit like a 58 through 60 Thunderbird.

Some other hardener might work but it would really be taking a chance. Best thing to do is to get the hardener that is made for this particular paint. Same thing with the thinner.

Chances are the 4 to 5 lb will overpower the float. Even the 2lb may. I would also install a variable regulator so you can lower the pressure even further if you have to. The original vacuum tank would have only been supplying 1/4 to 1/2 lb of pressure.

I will second most everything Terry says about Russ Furstnow except that sometimes he is less expensive.

Remember that if you have fuel and spark it should at least fire. Have you considered that you might have stuck valves and therefore no compression?

The problem with lacquer primer and spot putty is that they continue to dry and shrink for quite a while. Shrinkage is more where it is thickest and will mirror the pits underneath. You can use it but modern products work better with less hassle. I still use them ocassionably but only for very small flaws and you have to let it dry very thoroughly. The urethane primer will work fine for you and will not shrink. You do need to metal prep before priming.

Another thing to remember is that the anti corrosion properties of antifreeze are only good for two years. Your coolant should be replaced on a two year basis.

Glad to be of assistance. I always feel like I have accomplished something when finding rare parts and it doesn't matter if they are parts I need or for someone else. Keep us here informed on any progress with that car.

Pictures make a difference. Either side should come off. When you said rusty I think most of us imagined something that was really rusty. What you have is pretty rust free for an eighty year old car. Under no circumstances should you neglect to peen the new bolts.