nickelroadster

You need to work at getting the door panels off so that you can examine the mechanical linkage that goes to the latch as it sounds like these have come loose. I assume you have access to a manual that shows you how the trim panel comes off.

Unrestored Marmon sixteens are almost nonexistent. If you can't afford one that is restored ,you sure can't afford to restore one. It is not the kind of car that can be easily restored in ones garage and not for less than two or three hundred thousand dollars.

I don't think it is a 1920 hubcap . Through 1923 Olds used a two piece hubcap that used a cap on top of a sombrero shaped cover. These had a cap somewhat similar to what is shown but all of them had outside threads. Those inside threads look to fit and are the right size to fit a wheel hub, not a sombrero shaped inner hubcap.

I am guessing a little but I think that this goes to a 24-26 model 30. In later years the hubcaps were somewhat flimsier and had the word Oldsmobile spelled out.

Need the material it is made of and the inside dimensions. I think it is probably one of the 30 series from the twenties. How thick is it? Is it two piece?

I think it is most likely that this fits some model of Buick. I would show a better picture of the axles. It looks very similar to the one on my 1915 Oldsmobile but there were a lot more Buicks made.

I think I would check it rather than count on someone else to tell me. Volt-ohm meters are rather cheap at Home Depot or Lowes.

OK Sam where are the pictures?

If you post the size it would determine which one it fits. Price?

I didn't mean to imply that this is totally worthless, just not worth a whole lot. The case that is made to fit on a car may be worth more than the clock itself. Don't throw it away just because it doesn't sell right away. Just price it reasonably and be patient.

Three inch Waltham clocks such as this are fairly common and were used in a large number of pretty nice cars. There are numerous different different faces that all use the same basic movement that is essentially the same as used in their pocket watches. I just bought one that had been freshly serviced by a clock technician at hershey for $130. Servicing would be around $75 or $85 so a clock that requires servicing would cost about $30 to $50. Look on ebay for Waltham clocks and you will see quite a few for this price range. I doubt very seriously if "Dougie" has sold his either.

I would also check your valve timing.

Personally I would go with the Franklin and I do get tired of seeing Model As. You say you are a complete rookie. Does that mean that you know little or nothing about cars, mechanical contraptions? If this is really the case, you might be better off going with a model A which will have practically no unobtainable parts. If you do decide to go with the Franklin, you will probably want someone to help you evaluate it. Good luck.

Restoration Supply will sell you what you need if you can make do with a generic model.

Often times an intake leak can look like you have carburetor problems when you don't. looks like you got a lot of suggestions that were kind of off the mark. Hopefully you can use them in the future. Your gasket is probably available from someone like Olsens or Lamberts but in the Netherlands it might be easier to go ahead and cut your own. Good luck.

The first thing I would do is check for proper valve timing even if you don't suspect a problem it will allow you to eliminate that. After that you should be able to figure out the firing order by removing the spark plugs and feeling for compression. Start at no. 1 and when you have it a top dead center feel at no. 6. If that is not right then that would not be the order and you could try your next choice until you have it. You should be able to sort it out this way.

Make sure that your spray nozzle is clear. You can also take the top of the float chamber off and check the level of the fuel and compare that to the level of the top of the nozzle. It could be helpful to mark the height of the nozzle on the side of the carburetor with a magic marker and compare it to the height of gasoline in the float chamber. This way you can check the 1/32" clearance quite closely. It sounds like you are having trouble getting gas. Certainly a vacuum leak could make you a bit lean. I don't think you have an alcohol problem over there but over here I sometimes have to drill out the nozzle about two number sizes to make the mixture rich enough.

Somewhere I got the idea that you have an old Chrysler. There is an outfit that sells on ebay called Sea of Paper that is selling selections of preshaped water pump packing (ready made in a donut shape) that you might want to look at if you are still looking for packing.

First thing you need to do is to check all connections and cables for corrosion and to make sure that the cables are of the proper six volt size. After you do this you can start to check out the starter.

Have you narrowed the leak down to a specific location? Have you checked all the mating surfaces for trueness? I would still fire a question to Carbking. I seem to remember some Scheblers do have a leaking problem. Carbking could help you on this and probably suggest a good carb to substitute for the Schebler R.

Be advised that some or all of these carbs will need to be rebuilt to make them compatible with the alcohol in our gas.

I will be interested in hearing what anyone says. I have a radiator that is made from brass which should have been made in german silver which I will need to get plated. I will not want the core or the back side plated. I was planning on painting those areas which I did not want plated but would like to hear from someone with experience. For a windshield wiper motor I suspect that the best thing to do would be to paint the parts you don't want plated with an easily removable paint. Lacquer would probably be the easiest for you as you could remove it quickly with lacquer thinner. Unlike you I will want the paint to stay on my radiator and will use radiator paint. I don't think that the plating process would do anything to the paint.

Yes you do need to seal the new cork float! There are a number of things that you can use. Use very thin slow drying superglue (1), Thin epoxy sealers such as West's or Smith's, available from restoration supply (2, expensive but very useful for other things), Por-15 tank sealer(3), fuel proof model airplane dope from a hobby shop (4, probably the lightest of these). You also want to make sure that the needle seals against the seat. If this is in doubt or the needle and seat look a little worse for wear use a little valve grinding compound to seat the needle. If you run out of time I would just get into the habit of shutting the gas off and letting the engine run for a couple of minutes. A bigger float is something I always try to do when I have to make a new float.

I assume that you have a stewart vacuum tank. Are you sure that the float needle is sealing when the chamber is full? You don't say how long that the gas streams out. Is it a quick thing that soon quits or does it keep up for some length of time? does it leak while the engine is running? Be a little more specific about the location that it appears to leak from. Sounds like you are making some progress and are at least learning something. Maybe Carbking will chime in. If not you could send him a private message as he always seems happy to help people.

No. More than one photo!