nickelroadster

I'm not sure if this is much help but I think that your car was for sale in the July-August 2008 Antique automobile. It lists a gentleman from California. I would suspect that someone from headquarters would be able to help with who owned it when it won first junior award. Good luck.

Yes Marmon did build their own Thead. As I mentioned before they built the wasp six by adding another jug from their stock model 32 four cylinder engine which they used from 1909 to 1915 I believe. Starting in 1913 they basically put the same six in their model 48s. I believe that one other Marmon, a four cylinder also finished in the money at Indy placing something like third or fourth. These engines were completely Marmon designs, even having such features as full pressure lubrication. I am unaware of Marmon selling any engines to anyone else.

Correct. Some of the details are a little hazy but it is most likely a 1925 or 1926 D-74.

The main reason that the forum is here is so that it can get cluttered up with stuff. It is just as easy to type it here on the forum as it would be to send it in a private message. It would seem that there are several people looking forward to the clutter. Bring it on!

Cokers may be using a Teeter Hartley engine in their copy of the wasp but the original wasp was built with a Marmon engine. The six cylinder engine was based on the model 32 four cylinder engine that was released in the fall of 1908. Later Marmon put out a model 48 with a six cylinder that was based on their Indy engine. I doubt very seriously that Marmon ever used any engines built by other manufacturers. At least there is no record of it in any history I have read. They were always known for using more of their own parts than almost any other manufacturer. Howard Marmon started out designing everything and pretty much stayed that way. The Marmon Club is a small club and your email may not have been noticed. Give them a little time.

I know of at least one that was not scrapped.

A small addition to Sam's post. Not only did the McFarlan engine have three plugs per cylinder with magneto and coil ignition but the almost sixhundred cubic inch flathead six had four valves per cylinder. Obviously the accountants at this company had no say in what the engineering department did! It must have been a lot of fun to give this thing a tuneup and synchronizing the distributor and magneto.

It sounds as if your shocks are working fine. As long as they don't leak and have plenty of fluid in them they should continue working for quite a while.

A local bodyshop supply rep told me that the difference is that they put a different label on the can. I doubt that primer is really necessary in painting an engine as most of the surfaces are pretty rough. A quick metal prep and the paint seems to stick pretty well. If your engine color is available it is probably easier to use engine paint. If it isn't, just use regular paint.

First thing you need to do is to try and determine how and which hinge is sprung. If you can determine that, you may be able to take a small nut or socket and insert it in between the hinge halfes and carefully spring it back the other direction. Go slow as you don't want to go too far. You may find it easier to work with if you remove the hinge or hinges from the car. Concentrate on getting it to work smoothly. Most of the time if a hinge is sprung from opening too far, it puts a little sway in the flat part of the hinge that keeps it from closing all the way.

I don't mean to be picky either but gasoline is a hydrocarbon. It doesn't exactly turn to water when burned but water is a byproduct when the hydrogen in it is burned. The two main components of a cars exhaust are water and carbon dioxide. Nothing magical, just simple chemistry.

A few more comments. I tried some gas tank sealer which would not stick to the cork float. Maybe some types of gas tank sealer would work but Bill Hirsch sealer fell off every time I tried it. I have used a similar product to quick-poly, model airplane dope and thin super glue on previously used in gas cork floats. I let the floats dry out until I could no longer smell any gas and then sealed them. The model airplane dope is probably the lightest of all these materials. Por 15 that carbking uses is probably very good also although I wonder if it is not a little bit heavy as all urethanes are quite dense.

As previous poster said or you can use thin superglue. If using model airplane dope be sure to get fuel proof butyrate and the clear is lighter than thee colored

Please post a price as this is not an auction site. Museum quality might mean that it looks real nice on the outside but has no parts on the inside. Is the motor usable or rebuildable. What is your location? More information please. Read the directions for using the site.

A book that you should get is "Understanding your brass car" by Harold Sharon. Unfortunately he is deceased now but the book is still available.

Oldsmobiles from the early teens to sometime in the twenties were furnished with natural wood finish wheels. In their sales literature they touted this feature as showing that only the finest of second growth hickory was used. My fifteen Olds I aquired with the wheels painted. I second the Idea that it takes 12 to 15 hours a wheel to do a proper job of stripping and refinishing them. It was well worth it as they look very good. If I were to do it again, I could shave a couple of hours off the time as I am more experienced at it now. As Sam posted about Marmons, natural finish wheels were an option though my Marmon has painted wheels.

A lot of silicones will only adhere to themselves. Any possibility that you could obtain the same material? Other than that, I would try cyanoacrylate (super glue) as the last poster suggested.

Instead of trying to pick a color off of a swatch, take a piece of your car down to a local autobody supply store and have them match it. Almost all of these stores now will do computor matching and they could get a lot closer than you will by looking at a swatch. The color chips are not always that accurate.

Are you saying that the crank that you need is a one piece that extends in and engages the crankshaft behind the craossmember? What I have is an L shaped piece that attaches to either one of the other two pieces in the picture. Is what you need more of a Z shaped piece. The other two pieces in the picture bolt to the front of the engine and are essentially and extension of the crank. Do you have a parts book that shows exactly what you need?

What is the diameter of the front of the crankshaft? I am thinking that it will probably use the same Northway crank that some of the other Olds use. I have one from a model 42 and it is the same as the ones on a model 43 and model 44. I am talking with several people that are intersted in getting it duplicated. Let me know if the picture looks similar and how large is your shaft.

Do find a Dykes manual that has this carb in it. You need to get an understanding of how the carb works in order to diagnose your problem. Your float level should be about an eighth of an inch below the level of the high speed jet nozzle. Measure the heighth of this nozzle and put a little mark on the outside of the carburetor of where it comes to. You can pull the plate off of the float bowl and see where the gas comes up to. This should be about 1/8" below the level of the high speed jet. If this is ok, then you need to enlarge the size of the high speed jet. Get a set of numbered drill bits from 61 to 80 and find out the size of the hole in the high speed jet. Usually if you enlarge this two or three sizes it works pretty well. If you drill the jet out too much, than silver solder and redrill to a smaller size. Of course this last davice assumes that you have ensured that the carb is getting adequate gas. The air valve doesn't adjust the mixture very much and the alcohol in modern gas needs to be richer than straight gas. Make sure you understand the operation of this carb!

I do not have one of these cars but I work at a museum that has a very complete original. I will be happy to help with any pictures you might need.

You may have a bit of a problem with modern gas which needs to be run a little richer because of the alcohol. If you are getting backfires it is probably because it is too lean. Two suggestions. Check and see if you have any room to raise the float level but keep it beneath the main jet) or add about two drill sizes to the main spray nozzle. There is pretty good material on these marvel carbs in quite a few of the Dykes manuals which are easy to find. If you have trouble finding one, let me know and I can post a short article from an old Skinned knuckles magazine.

Please state price and model # of carb.

After thinking about your questions a little more, I thought I'd mention a couple of things. The exhaust manifolds are one with the intake manifolds. It would be really easy to mistake the single exhaust header which lays across the block and which there is only one with an exhuast manifold. If what you are looking at has two opening than that is what it is and you are not missing one. The distributor shaft is only about three inches long. It sits in a little right angle gear box that attaches to the generator and contains the shaft that the fan is attached to. Some of this may be a little different than what you are used to. I have a whole lot of literature that I can get copied if you need it. I would still like to see some pictures and I bet other people would too.