Paul K.

Hi All, I did a search for this but may have not used the best keywords. I need to replace ALL my interior courtesy light lenses and would like recommendations for best vendors. If I remember the side console and sail panel lenses are shared with other GMs, however, the rear of the console light is exclusive Riviera only or Buick with console only (I think) and above the glove box the same or at best shared with other Buicks, i.e. Electra and Wildcat. I've found this set on Fleabay and am curious if anyone has purchased this set? From the photos they all look OK, except for the rear console lens. I can't tell for sure but the repro rear console lens shown looks flat vs concave like the original. Thanks in advance! https://www.ebay.com/itm/332338028683?hash=item4d60e3e08b:g:EiwAAOSwV0RXqh6~

Surprised the hose isn't showing signs of melting being so close to the exhaust manifold. Keep it away from the manifold as well as the moving A-arm.

I located a switch. Thanks Tom.

Not really a "Buying Guide" but more of a historical analysis for the 63-5 Riviera. Still, a good primer for the person who knows nothing about these cars. The most valuable information in this article was recommending prospective buyers to join the ROA .

As the title states. Need one under dash (over the radio) courtesy light switch with the handle/knob. I have a '64 Riv and believe '65 is the same. PM if you have one, price and form of payment that is best for you. Thanks, Paul

Ongoing topic and here' s an old thread above where members have made a crossbar. I like the twin post (front and rear) hydraulic lifts that lift from the rear axle and under the A arms similar to the one below. But I don't think any are used anymore except for trucks and RVs. The length between posts was adjustable for different wheelbases. It was kinda sketchy using one as you had to sync the front and rear to be level going up and down. Back in the day Cadillac recommended them (per the shop manual) for a commercial chassis car like a factory Cadillac limo or ambulance.

Thanks for the correction. Been around 1st Gen Rivys for 40+ years but no 63s. Always learning something new here.

Quote: Any help would be much appreciated before I go down the slippery slope. I need to purchase correct wheel nuts (right thread and 10 LHThread and 10 RHThread as these came from a Chrysler product (Valiant I think) Right hand thread for both left and right sides on the Rivy.

+ 1 on the "Old New Parts". I just replaced all my wheel cylinders and hoses last week for the same reason, 10 + years old and leaking. Maybe 1k miles on them. +1 on Booster Dewey. He has done a few boosters for me and been around a long time. What are we going to do when Dewey is no longer "boostin"? 😁

Jimmiboots, As suggested, find the VIN. Since it was in your family, you may be able to find an old insurance policy or card with this information. Good luck!

I'm in both camps but on old cars like ours, I usually apply a very thin layer of something quick drying like contact cement or 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive to the fuel pump or "part side" of the gasket to hold it in position for the install of the part and another very thin layer of Right Stuff on the "engine side" of the gasket. The amount of sealant applied is thin enough so none oozes out the sides and is visible. Long answer for a simple task but I hate to see the sealer oozing out on the sides but realize a little help to seal is necessary sometimes.

I agree Jim, not the same car.

Thanks for the information, Ed. My first choice would be to have the wheels that will accommodate all the wheel covers in the event I decide on a set of aluminum caps . I'm going back to wire caps from Road Wheels. Years ago, I had the original steel wheels with the "Roulette Wheel" caps and assume it had 6" wheels vs 5" (It's a late '64 MY build - June)

Thanks for the replies. To clarify my original post, I'm in San Diego, CA area, 92009, My Riv is a '64 and I'm looking for standard steel wheels (not too rusty) and NOT chrome Road Wheels. THX!

I "liked" this post and would 100 times if it wouldn't be an annoyance. @drhach - Of my students had an LS in his Nissan 240. Went like crazy and good work, but it really wasn't a NIssan. Lots of speed for the $$ he had. I totally agree with the jframe's comment and as a 57 year old "fuddy duddy", stock is not boring to me, its what I prefer. I also prefer large cars vs small and not because of my age as younger kids speculate to me today. In high school I had 2 cars, my '64 Riv (still own) and a '69 Cadillac Convertible. Good times. Engine swapping has been going on for years, but the closest thing I can compare to a relatively modern day resto-mod or engine swap with the goal to "make it better" would be the Jaguars where many of the inline sixes were swapped with a Chevy V8. The Jag 4.2 DOHC inline 6 was a smooth, refined and very quiet like a cat should be The few times I have driven Jaguars with the Chevy conversion all the "soul" of the car was lost, not to mention it was louder and just felt "wrong". Another example is Studebaker who during its last 2 years of existence installed Chevy V8s vs their own 289 V8 which there was no supply toward the end of the company. Putting opinions aside, Studebaker made a good car and a very durable engine. The 65s and 66s with Chevy motors didn't feel or sound like a Studie. Its possible the LS conversions will wane to be replaced with electric conversions for classics. Although not correct, it would be a sustainable choice to maintain the vehicle's value if gas prices go higher, taxes are imposed for fossil fuel, proposed mileage tracking fees (Oregon), etc. As another year comes to an end, its more apparent that fast changing and uncertain times are ahead for lots of things and not just cars. Some days I just want to leave my phone at home get in, one of my old cars and take a drive where no one can find me.

Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. Yes I hope to find some closer but shipping from Chicago may be doable.

Looking for 4 good steel wheels for my '64 (15x6?). I'm in Southern CA, so prefer to find something local, however, if you have any please PM me. Thanks, Paul

This GS was my brothers car before Dick owned it. I didn't realize it was on BAT because questions arose as to its mileage, and its options if original (not listed on the data plate). I bought it back in 1986 from the second owner and spoke to the original owner found on the Protect-O-Plate. I know how it was originally "born" and it has a lot more options today than when it came from the factory. Some of these options were installed by the original owner but most were installed by a San Diego ROA member who we sold it to and he then sold it to Dick around the mid-90s.

Hi All, Reviving my old thread. Been busy selling cars vs fixing - I'm down to 4 from 10. Feels good. @CTX-SLPR, the all connectors in the plug are in place. The switch has one less spade connector than the plug. It seems the replacement headlight switch I was given from NAPA years ago was not correct. If anyone has recently purchased one that is correct and operates the parking lamps correctly please post. If not, @Ronncece did a nice retrofit but maybe I'll try doing this first externally with an insulated jumper wire.

Tom, can you provide an approximate price for one of your boxes? Any core charges? Thanks.

With a 50KV coil, you may consider upgrading from the OE spec 7mm spark plug wires to 8mm.

With your new quartz movement, does the clock's second hand have a smooth or "tick-tock" sweep? Older quartz kits only offered the smooth movement but I have heard some of the newer ones have a "tick-tock" movement like the original mechanical movement.

Contact cement always worked well for me but the new and "improved" LOW VOC stuff available here in CA is not what it was. +1 on the Gorilla Glue mentioned as well as the spray contact adhesive (3M makes a good one).

One of our members from Australia posted this question in his reply on the $135k 65 GS Mecum sale thread. I didn't want to hi-jack the thread but did want to offer my experiences and opinion to someone outside the U.S. I think a lot of us that have been around the old car hobby for some years have seen busy markets before but not to this level. "Here in Australia classic cars are increasing in value/price. Everyone thought that COVID would suppress the price of classic cars. Not so, they have gone up! Has the same thing happened in USA & Canada?" Same. Higher prices here in the USA for many but not all makes. I can only speak for the vehicles I own and follow. The Porsche 911 air-cooled market is not just on fire but an INFERNO causing previously less desireable models (mid-years and 996s) to now become desireable and the only "affordable" (under $50k) entry-level Porsches. All 911 prices have gone up sharply since January '21. C3 Corvettes including small blocks and automatic trans models are up 30% and more compared to 18 months ago. 70s, 80s and 90s Cadillacs especially the RWD models are up in value. Other big GM, FoMoCo cars up. Big Chryslers now going up as a result. However, 60s and 70 Rolls and Bentleys saloons are flat overall but some low production models are up a tick. These years or R-R and Bentley don't move much in value unless they are depreciating such as the 80s and 90s saloons. Still going down. However 80s Corniche dropheads are up 25% and the 90s Corniche even more. Underappreciated makes and models are now gaining steam. $50k for a Studebaker Avanti R1? I've owned 5 Avantis and love them but also accept they are not for everyone. However, they've moved more "center" and are now "cool" to some that never considered one. 80s American and Japanese cars have been going up too. Who would have thought?? - A new generation is getting into the hobby. High values and activity has happened before in auto and other markets (real estate) where "a rising tide floats all boats". There are a lot of uneducated NOO-Bs that just have to "get in" the market and buy something before prices go higher is a lot of what I see out there. There will likely be a "correction" of sorts but when who knows? Personally, my tact has been to sell cars this last year and keep only the cars that I really like and enjoy. I'm down to 4 cars now and if I hade to sell them, my 64 Riv would be the last to go. 🙂

I've heard alluminum can be manufactured thinner compared to copper/brass offering more possible tubes in a radiator package. Regardless, I always recore my original radiators but my last two radiator "guys" are gone (one literally) so I don't have anyone at the moment to recore a radiator if I had to. Here is a FAQ page with #1 and 7 addressing our topics. https://www.griffinrad.com/general_faq.php