Paul K.

Yeah, I replaced this switch 10+ years ago and I vaguely remember the new NAPA switch missing one male spade connector which I assume was for the parking lights. Can't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. My dash pad is off so I want to get this figured out now.

The switch in the car now is a replacement from NAPA. The parking lights haven't worked since its replacement. Maybe I was given the wrong switch?

Thanks Rich, I appreciate your response.

Do you still have the original drum brakes? If yes, are you happy with the braking with of your new brakes? If also yes, could you share which brand of brake shoe your mechanic used? It would be good to know a good brand as I had a set from NAPA years ago that were not good at all and required a lot of pedal effort. thx.

Tom, Thanks for your response. I'm familiar with that relay but never knew what it was for. It is working. I edited my original question/post because I was mistaken. The parking lamps work only when the low beams are on. They don't work as parking lights like the original headlight switch. Is there a replacement switch that will get me back to the original function?

I found this quote below from an old thread but it had many topics and I didn't revive it. " '64's had a relay. When the headlights were on low beam the orange/yellow parking lights would be on. When you hit the high beams the parking lights would go off ". I replaced it years ago with one from NAPA and since then, my parking lights work only when the low-beams are on. Did '64s have a different headlamp switch? Was the mentioned relay part of the switch or external?

Thanks for this post and the photo. How many bulbs were needed to do both gauges and the console on a 64? There are many choices on Amazon for LED 194 Super Bright bulbs. They might all be the same but maybe not. If you could post the Amazon link to the actual ones you purchased that would be helpful. I like the look of yours and want to achieve the same results. Thanks!

I think your correct. When I watched the video, It reminded me of the Cash for Clunkers program here in CA (maybe elsewhere too). The engines were "disabled" (ruined) by adding a concoction to the crankcase that seized the engine. https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1033857_killing-your-clunker-correctly-how-a-dealer-disables-it#:~:text=The 135 pages of Cash,of your traded-in clunker.&text=It's a combination of water,is drained and disposed of.

Hi Tom, I've greased a few speedo cables but seeing an earlier thread saying the Riv cable won't come out from the bottom caused me to ask. Thank you for the VERY detailed instructions including the recommendation for the brand of grease. This is excellent information which will give a long lasting fix. I'll follow up with the results. Paul

Hi All, Happy New Year. My 64 speedo is noisy and erratic mostily after the car sits after long periods. Sometimes its quiet but its always a little jumpy. Before it zeroes coming to a stop, it "growls" and sounds very rough. I've read the threads I could find here and I want to clarify I have to remove the cable from the top, assuming that lubing is the first thing to try? Can I remove the cable separate from the housing as possible on other makes? BTW, my dash pad is removed right now for an unrelated repair. Here is a YT video of the noise. Thanks!

Don't see the link in this thread so here it is. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1965-buick-riviera-gs-2?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-12-07

Interesting Ed. I would remember one like that which is nothing like the one I had. I'll look for some photos.

Its been 30 years since I sold this car but pretty sure our 65 GS with AM/FM had the radio reverberator switch or maybe it was a knob mounted there. The marking said "Reverb".

Concensus from people on other forums is to never coat the inside of a fuel tank. It seems the coating eventually begins to peel and block the fuel lines. I'm curious if the first gen Riv shared its fuel tank with any other GM products before or later? Just going by number of gallons, later GM A bodies used 20 gallon tanks - same amount as the Riv.

Hi Dave. Nice Riv and thanks for the photos. I see you are new to the forum so WELCOME!

FYI for the Group. Needs a little work. 😁 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Riviera-GS/283968071954?hash=item421dd0e912:g:k1sAAOSwavNfKGWK

Not sure if the same on 65 but on my 64 the trim plate where the courtesy light and accessory switches mount will be labeled "Courtesy" in the center positon and "Accessory" to the left of center or "Antenna" to the right depending on how the car was originally equipped. My 64 originally came with no power antenna or rear defrost so it has only one switch in the center of the trim plate for the courtesy light and only labeled "Courtesy". I installed a power antenna some years ago from a car in the Pick-A-Part and also took its trim panel and switch. This panel listed "Courtesy" in the middle of the plate and " Antenna" to the right. Nothing on the left, however, there are pre-drilled holes to mount a factory switch. Pretty sure this is all correct. 🙂

Rebuilt mine in 1987 45k miles ago. Had it out once since then for a reseal.

Just pulled the trigger and purchased the Dashtop cover listed below. I needed the dark blue color for my 64, however, when I called and spoke to the rep, the only color they offer for 64 is their "OE Blue" which is light blue even though they show about a dozen colors. Sooo... I ordered it unpainted and I will paint it. Question: My 64 has the dark blue dash. Is it supposed to match the rear package tray which is also dark blue but has a slight metallic finish? THX, Paul https://www.carid.com/1964-buick-riviera-interior-parts/dashtop-dash-cover-902030131.html

Thanks for the tip!

Recovering one of our dashes with a seam on the facing edge is an easy way to recover and a way most upholstery shops will do. 20-30 years ago, this is all the shops would do and they weren't interested in covering a dash any other way. I never liked the look of a seam where it was not original, however, Ed, I very much like your example of contrasting color stitching. Today, I hear and see more and more people stretching and covering dashes without a seam. Maybe the vinyl today stretches better? Value is relative. Its sad to say, our Rivieras aren't very valuable when compared to the classic car market in general. Under $50k is the bottom tier with auction houses. I have owned my Riv for 38 years. Agreed, Just Dashes from what I have read is the highest quality dash repair and most correct, however, I have other cars I enter in shows and get judged so a dash cap for me is the best option for me to keep enjoying my car. I don't get hung up with originality details that can be easily corrected or reversed.

Thanks Turbinator. I saw you post and your work and its nice. When ordering the Dashtop, it looks like you have to choose a color at an extra cost of $30. From another post, their OEM blue is light blue and was not correct. I would prefer to buy it with no color. Any comments on the QRP brand are appreciated. The description of the QRP company in their dash shell ad seems very impressive in regard to product quality and their company profile.

Hi All, Apologies in advance for starting another first-gen dash cover thread. After reading all of the previous posts, I was ready to purchase one of the Dashtop dash covers for my 64. But then I came across this QRP brand "dash shell". Anyone used it? Links to both items below on the CARid site. https://www.carid.com/1964-buick-riviera-interior-parts/dashtop-dash-cover-902030131.html https://www.carid.com/qrp/dash-shell-mpn-br04141.html?singleid=100948940&url=89840761

First time I saw one of those was around 1986 on a white '65 that was parked in Solana Beach CA (North San Diego). Remember thinking it was cool there was a club for the first gen Rivs. Today all Rivieras are special, however back then, the first gens were a bit more coveted than other years.