Owen_Dyneto

I have no familiarity with a 1930 Dodge but if indeed the hub caps are screwed on, the standard way to remove them without damage is to use a plumber's strap wrench.

6-volt halogen bulbs for tail and brake lights, etc. have been around for a long time and there are several sources, Bill Hirsch for one. I've installed them in several prewar 6-volt cars; they do draw a bit more current but nothing the generator couldn't cope with easily.

Just a word of caution - if you buy a radiator that has been stored for a long time empty of coolant, usually the only value will be the tanks as the core will often leak badly due to oxidation of the solder joints. Buy with a proviso that it pass a pressure test. Radiators to be stored for a long time should be filled with coolant, preferably one with a corrosion inhibitor (permanent antifreeze for example).

Although it's often a good reference, I would NOT arbitrarily go with torque values recommended based on the diameter and thread pitch for connecting rod bearings without some other source data. Even back into the teens rod bolts were generally special hi-grade bolts and capable of more torque than should be used - it's a matter of too high a torque distorting the bore of the big end. What you might do is measure the thread diameter and diameter of the connecting rod throw and with them as reference go to later makes and models to see what torque they recommend. Just by way of reference, Packard recommended 45-50 for insert bearing connecting rods in the middle 30s though I know of rebuilders who recommend about 10 ft-lbs less for the poured bearing variety though of the same rod diameter and bolt size. Nash in the mid 30s and later seems to have specified 55-60 for all models except the Model 40 for which they specified 27-30, source is Motor's Manual. I hope all of this is of some help.

Factory-recommended actual torque specs were pretty much unheard of that early, factory and field mechanics were generally instructed by "feel". I hope someone can give you a firm recommendation but based on other engines of that era I'd think about 35 ft-lbs is typical.

Among the things to consider are (1) carburetor accelerator pump, (2) leaking vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor, (3) vacuum leak somewhere, intake manifold gaskets, wiper motor, etc., (4) ignition timing. Or some combination of those. First thing I'd do after checking the ignition timing and the vacuum advance diaphragm is to put a vacuum gauge on and check manifold vacuum. Very easy to check the accelerator pump, just hold the choke valve open and stroke the carb linkage a few times.

Back to the originating post, jvsb asks "Are formal sedans more rare?" Using production estimates based on surviving vehicle numbers, for the 1934 Eight series there were 464 club sedans (body type 716) manufactured and only 38 formal sedans (body type 712). The ratio may have been somewhat different as you moved upscale to the Super Eight and Twelve but club sedans were far more popular than formal sedans during the years when both were offered on the same chassis.

The rear axles in the long wheelbase chassis for Henney were of Packard manufacture. No secret about the ratios, they're listed right in the specifications. 4.54/1 for standard shift, 4.7/1 for standard with overdrive, and 4.36/1 for Ultramatic.

Assuming an engine in good condition, I find that the current AutoLite plug recommendation for these Packards (#3136) perform very well. Available at any parts store that stocks or will order AutoLite plugs.

Though it may work out for your friend, there are many reports of folks who switched back to points/condenser after trying Pertronix on 6-volt positive ground cars. The problem most of them report is difficult starting due to the triggering voltage needed by Pertronix is often not available due to heavy draw from the starter motor. Were it my car and I wanted a reliable touring car, I'd stick with the conventional ignition.

For sure, the preferred coating is Glyptal. As to the gray metal film, I had some analyzed many years ago by atomic absorption spectrophotometry. It was primarily tin, lead and antimony from bearing metal (Babbitt) with smaller amounts of iron, nickel and chromium from other wear surfaces, probably mostly cylinder walls and piston rings. It's just the normal result of an engine slowly wearing.

The range of capacitance for ignition condensers is fairly narrow and within reason a condenser doesn't much care if the engine is 4, 6, 8 12 or even 16 cylinders and what the polarity is. I use NAPA/Echlin AL-869 as practically a "universal" condenser with good results.

Can't say I've ever heard of the potential for yellow metal attack from greases, only from the early formulations of extreme pressure (EP) gear oils.

The oil pressure relief valve is in the oil pump body which is on the passenger side of the lower engine. Remove the hex-headed plug - out should come a spring and plunger. You want to make sure the plunger moves freely within the bore. As to running cold, of course check the actual temperature but let me ask, are the radiator shutters stuck in the open position? You do have a second thermostat in the upper radiator tank that activates the shutters, in addition to the thermostat in the cylinder head gooseneck.

I'd suggest making new lines using a cupro-nickel-iron alloy hydraulic brake line which would give the appearance of the original copper-colored lines. Another advantage is that it's much easier to work with than steel, more easily formed, etc. Its fully DOT approved for automotive brake lines. One brand name is Cunifer.

Paul's Rod & Bearing has done Babbitt work for me with complete satisfaction and tens of thousands of miles of service. Parkville, MO, 816-587-4747

The very first thing I'd do is after 2 minutes when the gauge reads 200 deg. F, remove the radiator cap and check the REAL temperature of the coolant in the top radiator tank with a decent quality thermometer. It's almost beyond comprehension that 2 minutes of running can bring 32 quarts of coolant to 200 deg. F.!

Just confirming, a 23rd series Super Deluxe 2372. As previously said, the only way to tell if a 1949 or 1950 is via the VN#.

My 41 "120" had solid-colored wool broadcloths so if you go with that in the correct material and color, it would be correct to the year and model though not correct to the original build if that's of any consequence to you. I'd recommend starting with Bill Hirsch for the higher quality wools and selection of colors.

Update: Apparently the Redding CT show is now just a club event and not open to the general public without an invitation. Here's the response to my question to Byron York about it: The Old Ridgefield/ Redding show is now held at Richard Kings home in Redding,CT. It is a club function open to members and their guests.

I likewise have heard nothing of the Redding show for 2013 and would be sorely disappointed if it were kaput, I enjoyed many years at that show and at the predecessor events in Richfield and Danbury. I'll shoot an email off to Byron York asking about it, if he comes back with any information I'll post it.

Here's the air pump used by Packard in 1930 and for some years prior. Hope this helps with your identification.

Many makes of premium cars prior to about 1930 carried or offered a transmission or engine-mounted compressor for tire inflation. Whether yours is one of those I have no way of knowing.

You might also try Kesser (or is it Kessler) Lock and Key, they cater to the old car hobby. They always have a significant booth at Hershey and probably other larger antique car events.

The 1933 thru 1936 Twelve used the same wheel and it was distinctly different that the Super 8 wheel in that it was sized for a different tire size (7:50x17 rather than 7:00x17), had a rolled bead for extra strength, and had threaded spokes and nipples rather than welded. Though they might physically interchange it would be unwise to do so. Your comment about the change to independent front suspension has me puzzled as the Twelve remained a beam axle front suspension in 1936, only the "120" had independent suspension in 1936.