Owen_Dyneto

Unlike most tires for modern cars where the name on the sidewall indicates the manufacturer, the collector car tire picture is a bit different, there are the actual manufacturers (usually unknown unless you inquire or look up the code on the tire), there are "brand" names like "Firestone" that does not mean Firestone made the tire, and there are "sellers" like Coker which sell both their own brand and other brand names and have contracted with various tire companies to make them. I suggest you study up a bit, perhaps starting as mentioned above by seeing what's available from the ads in Hemmings, and then speaking with owners of cars that take the same size as your car and seeing what their experiences are.

37Packard, to answer your initial question, I see 30 members of The Packard Club (PAC) listed in their current Member Directory living in Kentucky, 6 of which give Louisville as their home address. As to tires, I'd recommend sticking with bias-ply for your car. Radials add little significant to handling of these prewar cars, cost a lot more, are tougher on the suspension, and generally have a shorter recommended static life which can be important in cars driven a limited # of miles per year.

Something I'm not understanding here, I use mothballs in my interior when the car is laid up for the winter, not because of rodents but because it has a wool interior. In the spring I open the windows and go for a short drive, and as Phil says, the odor is gone very quickly.

Not exactly in your neighborhood, but Paul's Rod & Bearing has been doing babbitt work for many years and has an excellent reputation. about pauls rod and bearing

I'd be guided by what the thread size is. I don't have any authoritative data from a Lincoln source, but most all flathead engines using 7/16-20 studs/nuts were about the same, in the range of 60-65 lb-ft. PS - again I don't have a pattern specific to the Lincoln, but all those patterns I've seen from a variety of makes were always in the form of a spiral starting in the center.

I just power mine from my 12-volt trickle charger. Easier than moving a 12-volt car alongside, at least for me. Also note you can get timing lights that are powered by 110 volt AC. Just power the light correctly, as Restorer32 says, it couldn't care less about the voltage of the car it's timing.

Jim, glad the problem is resolved. If in fact the component that failed was the ignition condensor, chances are quite good that your ignition points took a beating. Take a look, they may well need replacing.

As condensors and coils begin to fail,they give the symptoms you originally had - should the degredation continue to the point of failure the give the symptoms you now have. And they are so simple to change you might do that first just because it's so easy, any universal condensor will be fine, regardless of original application they all have approximately the same capacitance, between 0.23 and perhaps 0.28 mfd. And just wire up temporarily a universal 6-volt coil to check. But since your carburetor rebuilder is known to have problems in the past, that's pretty suspect. Pick up a rebuild kit from Daytona Parts - the best kits and rebuilding service in the busines IMO. Never any issues with modern gasoline that I every heard of with their products.

Based on your comment that the fuel filter "didn't look too bad", I wouldn't rule out gas supply problems, but your symptoms are also quite classic for a failing ignition condenser or coil.

Lug bolts for Packard wooden artillery wheels are a stock item with Bruce Blevins.

My 34 Packard uses what appears to be a similar system to the one you're inquring about; 6-volt, dual coil, dual point, dual condensor, with a double-ended rotor for two 4-cylinder systems. I've just been using regular universal 6-volt condensors from NAPA/Echlin for decades now, never had a problem and have experienced excellent point life (15,000 miles or so).

In many ways your Edsel unit is similar to the Autolite-built unit used by Packard in 1956. After checking for loose connections or a blown fuse, I'd consult your Edsel shop manual. The servicing of the unit was covered in great detail in the Packard manual and I would guess Ford did no less with the Edsel.

West, wire wheel shell covers are what's often referred to as "Ace" covers, Ace being one of the makers of them. I just posted pictures of several Packards with the wire wheel shell covers on PackardInfo.

Use of chassis grease may result in damage to the gear surfaces. The reason is that it "channels", thus as the gears rotate they squeegee the grease away from the gear surfaces and leave them essentially dry on the next gear rotation. You need a lubricant that has enough "flow" property to return back to the surfaces. If SAE90 gear oil leaks, you probably need to reseal the gearbox, but you could try SAE 140 gear oil.

Agreeing totally with carlnut50. I can't quite understand all this desire to convert these old pumps to modern seals. It's only a gravity cooling system to there is no pressure to speak of on the seal. I repacked my 34 Packard with graphited cord packing about 40 years ago and in over 40,000 miles of driving have only had to adjust the packing nut 3 or 4 times. And yes, the tension of the packing nut is correct when you get the occasional drip - that's what lubricates the shaft and packing. In addition to the graphited cord packing, you can also buy preformed split rings of the same type material from several of the hobby suppliers.

The fluid on the market today which is the closest to the old Type A which was used in your Hydramatic is Type F. As to the clunkiness of the shifts as compared to modern transmissions, they didn't call the early Hydramatics "leap and lurch" for nothing, it may well be perfectly typical. I'm not really knowledgeable about these transmissions so take better advice from someone who is, but with the engine off, isn't Reverse used as a Park feature when the engine is not running? If so, grinding while going into Reverse may be related to engine vacuum or whatever allowed the Reverse position to have two functions, with and without the engine running.

Yes, as just pointed out the article on Gubitz in the current issue of The Classic Car is a very nice piece of research and writing by Chuck Flinchbaugh.

A reading of 195 deg. F in your top radiator tank would be indicative of a good-performing cooling system if you were running a 190 deg. F. thermostat. If your thermostat is a 160, 170 or 180 it may indicate a modest tendency towards overheating. Especially if you live in a warm/not climate, the 190 degree thermostat may not be the best choice; a 180 deg. F. stat would give you a bit more cushion in very hot or aggravating conditions without sacrificing much in engine efficiency. Your pulling wheel on braking may very well be due to a leaking wheel cylinder. If so, probably all of them plus the master cylinder should be checked.

Although some other issue is possible, you've got the classic symptoms of a grounded field, either at the regulator, or within the generator, or in the field wire between the two. As someone has already pointed out, continuing to drive it this way may harm the generator but what will probably happen first unless you drive with the headlights on (as was done in the age before full generator control) is that you'll boil the electrolyte out of the battery, warp the plates, and be in the market for another new battery.

My Packard data does not indicate that NorthEast # for any year/model.

Hupp36, several folks PM'd me before your post inquiring about the unit, and they provided phone numbers and email contacts so there will be discussion with them first, in the order in which they responded, I'm just an intermediary in this situation. If you're interested, best to PM me with some contact information in case the earlier respondents loose interest. The unit is in northeastern New Jersey.

This was just identified to me as for a 31 Hupp Century 6, perhaps other models. Looking for a good home for it.

As "helfen" suggested above, you might do a compression test to give some indication of the ring and valve conditions. Don't forget to insure both the choke and throttle valves are open when testing.

Probably the wrong place to post this, but does anyone with a Hupp have an interest in this item? I'm a Packard guy and have no use for it, but would like to see it end up in hands that would would need it for a Hupp restoration. PM me if interested.

Many thanks, huptoy.