Owen_Dyneto

Keep in mind as you read the chapters in the Kimes book on the very early Packards that information that came to light well after publication from some long-lost archives of G. L. Weiss revised and/or corrected some of original info in the Kimes book. This new data was used by Terry Martin and published as "Packard - the Warren Years" in 2006; I believe the book is available from the Warren museum.

If you can't get your local auto supply shop to order 600W, the folks that service the Model T and Model A hobby all offer it, folks like Snyders, etc.

For sure, those pictures are a great asset to future restorers. Over on the PAC Forum (Packard Automobile Classics, Inc. - The Packard Club), under "Packard Photos" and then under a thread called "Original Details" I've been encouraging folks to post photos of known authentic details. Please, as the opportunity to photograph such details arises, please post them, there and/or elsewhere, so this information remains preserved and available in the future.

Highly recommend George Bachleda at OldCar Bearing Co, Southern Pines, NC. 910-693-3324

I'm eating crow here, I thought the Twelves retained a blue dot thru 1939. Well, not the first time I've been wrong, and won't be the last. 1932 thru 1934 is correct.

Chromium-plated hood doors were a legitimate option, not hoods. If it had custom coachwork, anything is possible.

32 Twin Six, 33-39 Twelve.

The V12 and V16 used poured babbit in the rods thru 1937, going to inserts in 1938.

A bit off the original topic, but just browsing thru a Universal Catalog of Original Equipment Service Parts gives the following for the range of B&S ignition keys for a few random makes: 35 Pontiac 6 - 1499 38 Packard Eight - 250 35 Nash 6 - 200 32 LaSalle - 250 34 Hudson 8 - 200 38 Dodge D8 - 1000

West, it was my understanding that the starting point for the Flynn car was a 1942 model.

It's probably just a personal thing, but everytime I see a "restored" car with one of those accordian-style "one size fits all" radiator hoses, what comes to mind is a owner too lazy to get the right (and inexpensive) part and wonder what other less-visible short cuts have been taken. On the other hand I see what appears to be a recast dash pad which is neither inexpensive nor easy to do. Pending a good compression test, and a successful road test with good performance from the transmission, I don't think $85 is out of line, even in today's market.

Yes, there were two Custom Super Clipper LWB convertible sedans, built by Derham, for the President of Lebanon and the Shiek of Kuwait. The latter was ordered and paid for by one of the major oil companies as a gift. The original Derham files on these cars make very interesting reading. They were not completely identical, the purchaser of the 2nd one requring that it be longer than the first, hence bumper extensions which are visible.

For an 8 cylinder engine with a 4-lobe distributor cam, each set firing 4 cylinders, this may give you some ideas on how to synchronize the points in the absence of a Sun machine. PackardClub.org • View topic - Synchronizing NorthEast dual points

There apparently are very few photographs of the original, and I don't know just when it was destroyed or lost. Here's a well-known photo of it, don't know just when in it's lifetime the picture was taken. Doesn't look like a light color, at least at that point in it's life.

By all means look at the pump information but keep in mind that many 55/56 Packards are happily touring the country with their original pumps. It's an odd thing, perhaps a stack up of tolerances, but some cars experience oil pressure problems early in life, and others never do. If yours did suffer this and has been driven many miles since, you may have excessive clearances on the bearings by now and a simple pump replacement may not solve your problem. I'd suggest dropping the pan and checking bearing clearances - Plastigage is particularly handy for this.

Assuming the shaft is OK, just rebushing a distributor is a pretty basic operation. Chances are the bushings of correct dimension will be off-the-shelf items but even if not, sizing them would be a pretty basic operation for a good home shop, or there are plentyof places that rebuild distributros. As to electronic ignition, i'd stick with tried and true points and condensor. 6-volt electronic conversions haven't established the same reputation for reliability as their 12-volt counterparts.

I don't know what test you were thinking of, other than just testing to see if you can induce a spark. That's simple, just break the primary with the secondary near a ground and see if you get a spark. BUT coil tests are notoriously unreliable indicators of coil performance. When in doubt, especially if problems occur as the coil warms up, it's time to replace it.

I had my 34 Packard exhaust done by JetCoat about 8 years ago and it still looks great. But at that time there was no option for a color approximating fresh cast iron. If that's what you want, the Eastwood stainless steel high temp manifold paint gives a great cast iron appearance and should look serviceable for many years.

There is a special and inexpensive tool set available at most auto parts stores for this job. A deep socket drops over the shaft end with a hex end for an open-end wrench. The top of the socket is open to receive a second part of the tool that holds the shaft from turning. Makes the job very easy. My particular tool set is K-D.

Still very commonly available, MSC Industrial Supply in Harrisburg has them in nickel-plate, along with the handy grease gun adapter from pin-Alemite to hydraulic Alemite. You'll probably have to engrave the date yourself.

The letters P-A-C-K-A-R-D across the leading front edge of the hood identifies the car (or at least the hood) as 1951. This was not continued into 1952 or later years.

In a nutshell, "teeth" in the grille = a senior model. No teeth = a junior model. If you go to The Packard Club website (Packard Automobile Classics, Inc. - The Packard Club) and then to Reference, you'll find front end views to identify various models. And don't ignore the possibility that over the years, lots of mongrelizing and alterations could have occurred.

Despite a wide range of product labels, there are only a couple of manufacturers so it all comes out of only a couple of pots. Just pick a recognizeable name-brand and avoid bottles/cans that appear like old stock.

It 'was a precursor to today's DOT3 which should be mutually compatible. But it's an excellent idea if the car has been out of service for a while to open the wheel cylinders and purge the old fluid and flush with new fluid before closing it up and topping it off.

The pinging or spark knock is probably not related to the changes you made, just an indication of incorrect ignition timing.