Owen_Dyneto

I don't know where you've looked for fuel pump kits, but they are easy enough to find from quite a few vendors. "Then and Now" in Weymouth Mass is a popular source that many of us use. http://dragsite.tripod.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm

Sounds like the classic. Readjust the pedal free play, the pedal isn't allowing the MC piston to return far enough to uncover the port back to the reservoir.

L. R. Mack, Inc. (company branch) 504 Central Avenue Albany, New York See photo here (last post) of a twin-supercharged Twelve. http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1112&p=4559#p4559

My old Stromberg listing shows EXV2 used in Dodge D2, D3 & D4, 1936.

Generally, blackwalls were much more popular in Europe than in the US. They were more common on expensive cars than cheaper cars. They became more common in the 50s than the 20s and 30s. They weren't available immediately after WW II for a couple of years. Some years back CCCA published an analysis on whitewall vs. blackwall use based on original factory photographs in the Classic era. Look to their back issues if you have that much interest in this for the higher-priced cars. Its almost never a matter of authenticity, it was a matter of personal choice in most cases to the original purchaser, as it is today to the restorer. Some cars and some body styles and colors wear whitewalls better than others. From the 1934 Packard Super 8 specifications. They were also "no cost" on the Twelve, but extra cost on the Eight.

Thinking back to my days in the chemical regulatory compliance business, within a few years of the ban on import of Freon-12 by the Montreal Protocol, it was, after illicit drugs, the next most commonly imported illegal substance.

If interested you might look here for an early supercharged Packard experimental engine. PackardClub.org • View topic - Factory Experimental And this for the factory installation on a Panther Daytona. http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1113

They didn't all switch the same year. For a fact verified by factory photos Packard kept metal valve stems on wire wheels thru 1934. Unsure about use on Packard's wooden artillery or disteel wheels in 1934. I believe Pierce-Arrow also used them thru 1934 though many makes other changed over in 1933. Best bet is to locate original factory photos of your make and year.

Given the value of an engine, I'd consider the expandable rubber plugs only as a matter of pure desperation for emergency use (I do carry one on tours in my toolbox). And if the threads have been damaged, I'd never trust retapping them as there will be less than adequate metal remaining. Make a permanent and sturdy repair - remove the pan and silver solder or weld a threaded nut on the inside.

Lubriplate sells an EP SAE 160 though you probably will have to buy a 5 gallon pail or 15 gallon drum.

I don't think there is any secret about them, they were an unpopular option then, and most folks but not all don't like their appearance any more today. Not sure when the option started, they were available for the 1934 1106 LeBaron roadster, coupe and 1108 phaeton and they can look attractive on those particular cars. Macauley the younger fooled around with them on some of his earlier factory experimental cars. They don't show in the 34 Accessory booklet, but they may be listed in the parts book. They are called fender shrouds are are listed in the 35-41 parts book for the 120, 120A and 120B. If you want to know what was right for what models, just check the various parts books.

Of the 4 Panther Daytonas, only two were supercharged as built, those with motor #s M600050 and M600081. But they were not double-supercharged, at least as originally built. The only dual supercharged Packard I'm aware of was not a factory venture but done by a Packard mechanic, perhaps at the the Albany dealership, and it was a Twelve. At least one photograph of the engine compartment has recently been republished in one of The Packard Club's publications. Packard did toy around with supercharging a 385 Eight around 1929 or so - this picture has also been published in club publications.

search on a 1953 packard clipper executive (bullet proof car ) it had one and there was a hounderd built that year of tem Perhaps you are referring to the long-wheelbase 1953 Packards (they were NOT Clippers but in the Packard line). There were 100 Executive sedans and 50 Limousines (same body but with a divider window between the the front and rear compartments). None were armoured. The only armoured Packards I'm aware of were all built prewar, for Walter Ruether, Joe Stalin, and FDR.

Far superior in terms of dissolving rust is hydroxyacetic acid rather than plain acetic acid (vinegar). Getting it may be an issue unless you have a friend in the chemical business.

The "sore thumb" lenses have been repro'd by someone, I think it may be Packards International. As for a used rear bumper, I'd contact Mike Dulinksi, he's parted out perhaps 80 55/56 Packards and has a huge inventory of serviceable parts and has a long list of very satisfied customers.

The old-time classic was DuPont's heavy duty radiator cleaner, a two-part package with oxalic acid (which can chelate iron oxides), followed by rinsing and a sodium bicarbonate neutralizer. You can still buy these ingredients, oxalic from most hardware stores and bicarb from the supermarket. About 2 cups of oxalic acid into a radiator (with water, no antifreeze), drive around for an hour or two, then drain, flush a couple of times with water, and then use the neutralizer - perhaps 1/4 cup or so in an average 20-25 quart cooling system. If the coolant that is drained is dark brown like tea or coffee, it's working and perhaps a 2nd treatment might be tried. Citric acid would have a similar effect as oxalic - but forget the kerosene.

He's obviously never tried to start a car with automatic by pushing it. Jim, not the case with all automatics. For example Packard's Ultramatic could be push-started because the automatic had a rear pump that provided enough pressure to engage the direct drive clutch. BTW, just curious why someone would want to mate a Slim Jim to anything, didn't it have a reputation as a particularly lousy transmission?

I can never understand how this myth keeps getting perpetuated that 12-volt conversions offer solutions to problems. The sole exception may be a wife that demands an A/C installation. Do folks really think that the 50 million (?) 6-volt cars were all unreliable and never started when they were new? If God grants me another 10 or 15 years, I expect to be reading that folks are converting 12-volts cars to 36 or 42 volts because 12-volt cars never started or were otherwise electrically incompetent. My advice - convert it back to 6-volt, preserve the originality, and solve whatever issues the 12-volt conversion is masking.

Does he really think that one engine would produce that much hp? West, I guess your question was rhetorical? I think the only way to know what HE really thinks is to ask HIM, the actual facts are pretty clear. As most of us already know and others will learn, about 50% of eBay descriptions are at best, doubtful, and more often than not just plain incorrect.

According to Robert Neal's wonderfully researched work on the topic, the initial Navy requirement was for 1350 hp PER ENGINE available for emergency use, with a standard output of 1200. This was essentially what the 3M-2500 delivered. The 4M-2500 was a big change, different cam and rocker levers, fork & blade rods instead of articulated, changed carburetion, and much more, it was rated at 1350 std and 1500 hp max, again PER ENGINE. West, if you don't have a copy of Neal's "Master Motor Builders", perhaps you can get it put on your Xmas list.

I'm not familiar with that particular engine but if the oil pump is external like most other Chrysler-built flathead engines that I am familiar with, the standard old cure for a pump that had lost it's prime was to remove the cover plate and pack a little light grease into the cavity between the gears or the rotor and stator. Assuming the pump is the style remember, you'll probably need a new gasket. Remember when you make one to "think THIN".

Unless you live in a particularly cold climate or do a lot of winter driving, SAE 15W-40 motor oil is probably the odds-on favorite among Packard owners for cars with flat-tappet engines. But as has already been pointed out, DON'T use it if you haven't dropped the oil pan and cleaned it and other accessible parts of the engine like the filter cartridge, valve lifter galley, etc. There is no reason not to take advantage of the improvements in lubricants since your car was built.

Experiencing direct drive clutch lockup chatter and groan with Dexron and having it go away after a few hundred miles with Type F has been reported rather regularly. Ditto for B&M's "Trick Shift" as eliminating the problem. Dexron may be a good choice if your friction linings have been replaced with modern GM-origin linings; may not be such a good choice if they have not. As HH says, lot's to read on this topic, lots of individual experiences on both sides of the question.

Field coil screws are nickel plated on several O-D CO-1240 generators that I have and I strongly suspect this is correct as they show no evidence of having ever been externally refinished. Can't say with the same confidence that the same was true of O-D starters, but it would have been very inconsistent of them if it weren't.

I'd suggest you post this in the Packard section of this forum, or in either of the two forums dedicated completely to Packards, Packard Automobile Classics, Inc. - The Packard Club or PackardInfo.com - General Site News - New Part Cross Reference Database Added - Packard Articles. I'd also suggest you purchase an owner's manual, shop manual, and parts manual if you're serious about this vehicle - they are all available as reprints from the half-dozen or so specialized national Packard vendors, Kanter Bros. and Max Merritt to name two. Most owners use Type F transmission fluid which is a reasonable match for the original Type A which is NLA.