68RIVGS

Did you remember to mark it, as Tom suggested, so it goes back together the same way ?

. . . what Tom sez, may take a little persuasion !

There are numerous vinyl and leather products available on the market. As we all well know, some products work better than others, so it's a matter of experience and personal preference as to what product best achieves the results your after. Over the years I have tried quite a few of them before I chose the products that are used on a regular basis.

I assume you mean Star Wars air cleaner rocky5517 ? The originals are much better quality than the aluminum repros - there was a complete SW unit offered for sale on the v8buick website a short time ago. It might still be available, and the asking price was about $500 - $600 + shipping. 'Evilbay' is another source, but some of them are damaged, or not complete units. I'll post a link if I can find it again.

I think if you black them out, it will draw too much attention to the oversize wheels? They look pretty good just the way they came right out of the box ! As Ed sez: Try one with photoshop, to help you decide and post a pic. BTW: That photo showing one mounted is a '68 or '69 ?

. . . most ROA types already know that Ed - sure looks like a 'mean machine' with the road wheels Jason, could also be the BW tires too !!

The 430 BBB will handle all the advance you can give it - did you use a dial back timing light ?

. . . this chain of events is quite common, and has scam written all over it, you were wise in checking with others - expose him !

. . . like Ed sez, only one way to find out !

. . . they look neat, nice work !!

I had removed the dash pad, glove box, 8 track player, ashtray, radio, centre AC duct, and the instrument cluster as part of a total interior refurb back in the late 80's. So it was much easier to see what went where, and how. That wire wound, cloth AC ducting can also limit the amount of working space available. Removing the ashtray, and radio will give you a little more access, and you can remove the control unit through the ashtray opening, after you remove the two light sockets, the electrical and vacuum connections along with the Bowden cables. Mark them all, so they can go back to the proper position. The shop manual has a very brief removal description, along with some illustrations that you can use as a guide. . . . forgot to mention - have a box of 'band aids' on standby, as there are a lot of sharp metal edges hiding behind the dash ! I admire your fortitude Ken - good luck, and keep us posted !

Apart from your misrepresentation with this dealer, I think you still own a pretty nice example of a '63 Riviera Bill. I only noticed the Buick tri shield emblems that Ed mentioned, from an obvious power window conversion, and the cone style centre caps on the chrome wheels, which were not available in '63, but I'm sure you can add more discrepancies ? Thanks for posting a 'caveat emptor' about this dealer, it may help others !

. . . they can park it in my garage anytime !!

It has been a while since I removed my instrument cluster, along with the AC/Heater control unit Ken. The '68-'69 models are similar. While it is not exactly a simple job, it can be accomplished. Being a part time contortionist will also help ! Disconnect the battery cable to avoid shorting any live electrical connections behind the dash cluster - it is not necessary to remove the dash pad, or instrument cluster to gain access to the AC/Heater control unit. Move the front seat as far back as you can, and lie on your back, with your feet up on the seat, and get your head stuffed up under the dash - a big pillow against the pedals will help to hold your head, and support your neck. A portable light source will also be needed as it's dark behind the dash panel ! First, you will have to remove any pieces, or components that are in the way. The lower steering column cover will give you better access to the AC/Heater control unit. The control unit can be removed from the dash by loosening the two 3/8 threaded captive nuts at either side of the unit. The control unit has control cables and electrical connectors, as well as panel lights in the unit. The control unit pushes back from the dash opening and is accessible under the steel dash panel. Be very careful when you remove the unit, as the control unit photo etched faceplate is very delicate, and can be very easily damaged in the process. Replace the AC switch, and clean and lube the thumb wheel sliders while the unit is out of the dash panel. The procedure is simply reversed to reinstall the AC/Heater control unit. It is not the kind of job that you want to do twice . . . . hope this helps !

The metal plate contained all the info about the vehicle, and below that the information about the owner. The OPP, or POP (Protect-O-Plate) info was imprinted on dealer work orders and any warranty work was credited back to the dealers. It provided a history of service on any given vehicle, and allowed dealers to claim for any warranty repairs. While it may appear as 'hype', it was a system designed to track any service completed on a new vehicle. *RO/AFA forms were used by Buick Dealers and were imprinted with the OPP, or POP info. The RO/AFA Form was a 5 part form. The first part (white copy) went to the dealer accounting, and was an office copy. The second part (buff copy) Buick AFA(Claim) copy for submitting a warranty claim to the factory. The third copy (Green) Dealer AFA copy for Dealer Files and Parts Inspection. The fourth part (Pink) was the Customer Copy. The 5th part was a hard copy for routing Repair Work through the shop. *RO/AFA - Repair Order/Application for Adjustments Remember there were no computers back in the day, and the job was never over till all the paper work was completed! I was never a service manager, but I do have a copy of Service Policies and Procedure Manual for Buick Dealers, which is where the above information came from.

. . . x2 !!

I've never seen or heard about one that was an 'official' release, but it may have been some ones 'custom' scheme ?

. . . great story and pictures, enjoy !!

. . . let your fingers do the walking Ed !! Amazing what you can find using the internet.

. . . pics were probably taken when he got the car, and he's just using them for the add ?

20/20 hind sight Winston, . . . shoulda, woulda, coulda !!

It is usually referred to as a 'flex' hose Ed - guess it all depends on where you live?

A little 'off topic', but the correct colour can make, or break the appearance of almost any year of vehicle besides the 2nd gen. Riviera. That is why you should never choose a colour from a small, less than business card sized swatch. If it's only a colour match, and your happy with that particular colour, then go for it. However, a complete colour change requires a little more scrutiny before choosing a final paint colour. With todays computer software programs you can easily see how a refinished car will look, before you buy the paint, or pay for a paint job that does not enhance the appearance of the vehicle, and leaves you unhappy with the final result of your choosing !!

There were 3 different types Tom. The early Riviera had a 'pull style' handle, as shown in John's interior driver's side pic. There were two versions of the pull style handle. the first version was without die cast escutcheons, the second version was with die cast escutcheons. The small plastic pull handles were prone to breaking because of the large heavy doors on the 2nd gen. cars. The third version, introduced somewhere in the production run, switched from door pull handles to door pull straps. I don't have photos Tom, but they are very easy to identify visually. A plastic pull handle, with a backing plate vs. a pull strap with chrome escutcheons at either end. Scroll type finish '68, or later, '68 and '69 brush finished with stylized 'R' emblems on front escutcheons.

Based on your additional pictures found on v8buick John, you have a very nice parts car. This car is just too far gone to be brought back to ' like new' condition. There are better examples of '68s available for restoration than your garage find (...IMHO). If you do decide to part it, I would be interested in the 430 exhaust manifolds !