68RIVGS

Some parts places may still carry just the rubber blade portion of the wiper, and you simply cut the refill to the length required. They are getting harder to find though, since there is more profit in selling a complete wiper blade, rather than just the blade refill.

I believe the silicone brake fluid you referred to is DOT 5 Winston ? DOT 4 is compatible with DOT 3 fluid, but with a higher boiling point.

Definitely with the decal - without it, the ac lid just looks like a plain old rubber maid garbage can lid !

The '68 bezels had a tendency to bend in the middle because of the curved design that matched the bumper contour, and the rather long overall length of the bezels. The upper portion was pinned and bolted to the bumper with thread cutting nuts, while the lower part of the bezel was floating. They are also fastened to the bumper at either end with two stainless screws captured in cage nuts mounted to the bumper. The problem was rectified with a redesign of the original bezels, by the addition of two vertical bars near the end of the '68 production run. It is not uncommon to see late '68s with, or without the redesigned bezels, which were introduced prior to the '69 production run. The two different designs are interchangeable as Pat mentioned. Steve - the bezels were chrome plated, die cast pot metal pieces of varying quality, that were quite prone to pitting, particularly in northern regions where salt is used for winter driving conditions. Both sides are equally prone to pitting, depending on the quality of the originals, and because of the intricate design of the bezels, it can cost a fortune to have them re-chromed. NOS pieces are quite scarce, and usually priced accordingly, so 'good used' with little or no pitting is the more economical way to go. What totally surprised me, about this post was the fact the NOS seller '- J' from Dave's Junk Yard, took the time to find and reply to a thread that was originally posted way back in Feb., 2008 - almost 7 years ago !! Just goes to show that NOS parts are still out there somewhere, so never stop looking !

Appreciate the offer 'J' and the link, but this post is 7 years old - and a lot of water passed under the bridge since then ! A few years back, I was fortunate enough to locate an original used 'pristine' right side, and swapped out a pristine used '69 bezel for it, with no $$$ changing hands. Good luck with your 'Evilbay' listing - it looks like a decent piece, but at .25 cents per US dollar, with all the added shipping costs, it's just not worth it at this stage. One of he joys of being "Canadian" eh?

Those pictures show it all Jason !!

It's covered in the manual RS, at least it is for '68. (...Fig. 50-8-49000 Service Brake Control System). It is a line drawing, with sectional views, so it's a little vague, but it does give you an idea of how the routing through the X frame goes.

"PARTS CAR" !!

Instead of using grease on my NOS door guards, I used a clear silicone sealant which actually made it easy for the stainless to slide over the lip of the door edge, and once it had cured, moisture and dirt would not get trapped in any voids. A few taps with a rubber mallet and a block of wood insured the stainless trim was seated. Any access silicone can be easily removed without harming the painted surface of the door. The '68 does not have a removable door skin.

Only the ole timers will remember that one Jason, thanks for posting info Ed !!

Bonjour Hubert - Welcome to the AACA forum, and your first post - very nice example of a second generation '66 Riviera ! You might even consider joining the ROA - check out our web sight here: www.rivowners.org, There are several ROA members located in France. Merci, and good luck with your search !

Thanks for all the info RoadShark, your pictorial coverage is excellent and much appreciated !!

Who makes the headers, and where did you find them RS - will they fit a '68 430? I'm also dealing with the dreaded 'cracked' manifold situation, and have been procrastinating on replacing the existing passenger side manifold. Those headers look pretty decent, and would definitely change the exhaust sound to something more desirable ! Who, and where did the solid trailing arms come from?

Pot metal can be re-chromed or re-plated, but it is a very labour intensive and expensive process ! Any pitting must ground down, cleaned out and refilled with copper. The copper is then filed or sanded to render a smooth surface for re-plating. Some of the finer detail on certain parts may be reduced or lost in prepping a pot metal piece for re-chroming, as the old chrome finish must be removed before any new plating is applied. The time and effort needed to restore pot metal pieces can account for some very high costs !! Deep pitting may take several attempts to get the surface mirror smooth prior to re-plating. Sometimes sourcing better quality 'good used' or NOS, if you can find it, is a much cheaper alternative. It can be done - but get some quotes before you pick a source !

2nd generation kick panels are made from a thin molded plastic Ed, with a rear extension piece that completely encloses the front door jamb next to the dash panel like a wind lace. Much easier to obtain 'good used' from a parts car!

That original SW air cleaner will fetch some good coin if you get tired of displaying it !

Great '67GS - it looks like a definite keeper. Unmolested and probably just needs some TLC ! Second generation E bodies look better without the vinyl (... just MHO), and who needs AC anyways ? Thanks for sharing your car, along with the great photos - enjoy !!

'68 or '69 are identical, and possibly '70. Not sure if earlier 2nd gen. Rivs or other GM models shared the same kick panels. AC vs. non-AC, with the provision for air vents are different, and I think that the carpet insert was on either style? They were also colour matched to the interior colours available each model year.

According to the illustrations in the shop manual it does Jason, but I've never got under there to confirm yah or nay. It works just the way it should, so If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it !!

In '68 there were adjustable 'stops' that limit the travel of the rear quarter glass in either the Up or Down position. Your '65 may have a similar setup ?

Shop Manuals and Chassis Manuals are the "Bible" for your car, and contain a wealth of information. They are also available in CD format for a computer - you can print 'hard copy' as required, for reference material. Manuals should be the first purchase after obtaining a vintage vehicle, it's the best investment you can make !

The '68 is also mounted above the gas pedal and inside just like the '73 Jason, similar to your pic. . . . a properly adjusted downshift switch is like lighting the 'afterburner' !

It may not be disconnected, but the unlatching mechanism inside the door latch may be stuck, corroded, broken or seized. Maybe try a liberal amount of spray lube like WD40, or a penetrating oil - let it soak for a while, then see if you can get any results?

I think your on the right track Ed - the '68 bracket has slotted holes for ample switch adjustment !

Had this happen in a '68 Wildcat Winston - the entire headliner was bowed like an umbrella that had got caught in a violent wind storm. Fortunately, all the roof bows popped back into their original position, and any future high speed runs were done with the door glass in the UP position !