Larry Schramm

The reason that I think the car on the left is a Model T is because of the radiator cap and the depressed steering wheel.

The one on the left looks like it might be a Model T. Do not know about the one on the right.

Maybe a silly question, but how is the ground for the stop lights at the back of the car? Might look if it is in the trunk and see if it was knocked off or damaged by cargo. If outside, is it rusty or corroded?

Just never know where one will show up. Good issue of the Bugle.

Now that is a neat picture!!

Thanks

Is the alarm system a factory alarm, or an aftermarket? If it is an aftermarket, I would remove every part of the alarm and fix all of the wires where the alarm was connected. In that era, aftermarket alarm companies typically used "scotch-lock" connections that cut wire strands, and had lots of other problems. This is from an experience of buying a car that had one of the alarms on it and it had tons of electrical gremlins. Removed all of the alarm parts, fixed the wires and never had another electrical problem with the car.

Could I ask where the organ is?

It is not a single connector, but three connectors. It is a white, blue, and a black connector. On the right side of the opening are the "keys" for the different connectors. Two of the connectors are for speakers, and the third (I think black) is for the power, ground, etc. Here is a picture

I believe in '23 the cars had steel fellowes, at least on the 4 cylinder cars.

I also use Shell Rotella for my teens vehicles.

Make sure all of the lights, radio if it has one, etc are all turned off before trying to crank the engine. But the first thing would be to change all of the fluids. Engine oil, coolant, clean the fuel system, put some oil in the cylinders, etc. and then see if you can turn over the engine by hand.

I know Don Sommer and American Arrow. They make fantastic pieces and are absolutely concours quality parts makers. Worth what they cost.

Yuk

Ebay is a double edged sword. For smaller items it is able to get a broad audience that can be easily shipped. Larger items it is more problematic. The other thing is some of the buyers are scammers. Just had a person claim that a new item was not as described because it did not fit their application which I did not have any idea what they were trying to do with the part. Ebay give them their money back and let them keep the item. VERY UNFAIR!

A stationary application makes sense with a clutch mechanism to engage/ disengage the belt system.

My mind read filter, not filler. I agree with Brian

Neat. Where are you located?

I would say that it is there to keep the filter material in position and not collapsing causing a restricted flow of oil in the filter.

The hotter plug AC-46 vs/ AC-45 will help with fouling of the sparkplug caused by oil consumption for a while, but the engine will still need a rebuild at some time.

Where in Oakland County, MI?

This may sound silly, but are you sure you have the plug wires in the correct order? Also sure that you are on #1 plug wire for timing by looking at the timing mark and distributor location at the same time. They should be lined up. Just a thought.

NOTE: Does the car register the correct miles (not speed) driving down the road? If it reads the correct mileage the speedometer gear does not need to be replaced. It is the correct gear for the vehicle. It is a dry system that needs to be lubed. If you have a cable that has a stiff spot in it, you can buy just a cable without casing and install it. Sometimes a cable would get a stiff spot in it and it will cause the speedo needle to jump. Look here for a replacement cable: http://www.motoparthub.com/01_0107_Motion_Pro_Speedo_Cable_Kit?src=Google&gclid=CPnwrYv8uMECFXEQ7Aod5i4AcA You cut the new cable to length and attach the new end that goes into the transmission. This should be able to be completed from the bottom of the car where the speedo cable attaches to the transmission. I would do this and lube the speedometer head. There are also points inside the speedometer that could need to be lubed and the lower speed would indicate that the bearings for the needle are dry. Be careful not to move the arm that the clock spring is attached to as it is the adjustment to the speedometer needle for correct speed. Use a good light oil as noted above. This is very much a TIME & materials (minimal amount) experience.

I had a new tank made for my one of my trucks by a local tin smith. I then had it zinc dipped and it turned out great. I am confident it will be here long after I am gone.

Looks like a clutch mechanism on the third photo. Agree that it might be for a stationary application, but could be some type of truck application based on what appears to be the attachment to maybe a frame.