John_Mereness

I would have expected more +/- 50K on the 500K mark. And, a maroon edge on the top would have been a better contrast choice than the red - I want to say though the top edge matched the interior.

Sounds about right: RR PI is a whole lot of torque but short an extra gear it needs in transmission and realistically they should not be run over 50 mph (maybe a little faster if you know what you have and willing to fix it if you have a problem). I drove a friend's 1925 English PI and it has a 4 speed instead of the US version three speed and seemed to be more 55 mph capable. Sidenote: it will get you to 50 pretty quick though. Basically, it was meant to go from stoplight to stoplight in town and if you took it on a long trip it was meant to give you dependability verses speed.

Trendy, doubt I have ever seen one

I will tell you what does fill a garage space - nice cars

I would like to see this in the garage - it belonged to a family member from 1970's through 1980's.

A lot of people never drive their cars - that is fine. A lot of people buy what they can afford - that is fine. A lot of cars never get done - that is fine. And, ... That all being said, I usually write for someone with a pre-WWII war car that has intentions of using it (it is for the most part my group of friends that I have know for my whole life). And, you can run them too - sometimes it eats at the wallet, but very rewarding. And, I love a well restored car, a well done project, some engineering smarts/resourcefulness (had a great conversation with a friend yesterday who decided to restore his own wire wheels for his Indian 4), and I love something revived. What I express caution on is such as "wood structure" as it is not for everyone, mice hotels - bad for the health, unrealistic price expectation, excessive missing parts, unrealistic performance expectations, standing in your own way, and ... And, you hear me preaching certain things just far exceed value if you dig into them. Not a 100% fan of wood wheels either - they have their place on certain cars and on other cars they are just not what you really want on others. Bad color choices get me going too - had a fellow doing a 1929 Packard cal me and spoke of bright red and I refrained from saying anything and possible good move as I saw the car and it was a nice color of bright red and actually looked good - we will see how it comes out long term. And, there are a few other things I preach on too.

https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/bedford-cord.php Synthetic: https://factorydirectfabrics.com/collections/crossroads-auto-interior-fabrics-16-styles Synthetic: https://www.amazon.com/BEDFORD-Automotive-Cloth-Colors-Available/dp/B0793D86T6

I am thinking stock exists - just need to start asking around. That being said, if you want just basic tan then: https://www.macsautoparts.com/assets/pdf/macs/SAMPLE-YG.pdf

As a sidenote: http://brightworkrestoration.com/about/ is probably the finest chrome shop in the United States (and yes everyone has their opinion, though ... their track record is IMPRESSIVE).

Here is where I go for the nitty gritty really detailed work (and you will loose some detail generally): https://www.paulschrome.com/ or http://brightworkrestoration.com/about/ Each shop no matter who they are across the united States generally has its specialties. As to Don Sommers - if they have a larger ornament I would be tempted - at least for the gazelle and the reason is that they are stainless and you can adapt to fit the cap (and they are probably selling stock verses new - Don died recently and ...).

Depends on the year - a "Classic Era" Continental is just a scaled up Ford with a nicer interior and ... (ie the engineer designing the Ford could have just as easily been the same engineer designing the Lincoln). That being said, a PA is a particularly well built car (all be it they are not fault free - just as every car ever made is not fault free). Ex. A 1932 KB Twelve is a fine car !

December 7, 2018. Series 12 and 13 new replacement Zenith updraft carburetors. Designed to replace the original potmetal Stromberg T-2 on all Series 12A and B, and all potmetal T-2, U-2 used to mid production Series 13. After many decades the original potmetal carbs are cracking and becoming unsafe to use as a result of intergranular corrosion. The potmetal used in the 1920's and early 1930's is porous. It is slowly corroding from within and expanding/cracking. These are new manufacture, diecast updraft carburetors have the correct size venturi and jetting for all Franklin Series 12A, B, and Series 130. Plus a model is available for the larger Series 135/137 engines. Features Bench set and ready to bolt-on updraft that uses all the original hand and foot controls. Simple and decades-proven design. Original air filter fits right on. Adjustable idle speed, idle air/fuel mix, and high speed fuel jet, that work the same as the tuning procedures covered in the Franklin Operator’s Manuals. Fuel-proof rubber tipped float needle for leak-free sealing when the engine is shutoff. Same 1/8 inch pipe thread as original fuel line inlet fitting. Vacuum controlled accelerator and power enrichment circuits. Dust seals an throttle and choke butterfly shafts. Comes with new mounting gasket, nuts, and lock washers. Note, these are not stationary/industrial engine carburetors, like many that are turning up installed as replacements in the past. With these there is no need to over-adjust the main jet too-rich for cruising conditions so as to compensate for being too-lean during acceleration and hill climbing because previous replacement types lacked those fuel circuits. These are specifically designed and sized with all the correct fuel circuits needed to smoothly handle all Franklin driving conditions with the proper air/fuel ratios. For more info contact,Paul Fitzpatricksee: PFitz below

This is more or less what I have been using - better situated to move some power through the car - that said, also a little hard on the hands to turn it on/off.

You need "wool Ribbed Bedford Cord cloth" specifically for automotive - otherwise the sun will rapidly fade. Interesting that Bill Hirsch does not have and also Lebaron Bonney is closed - perhaps SMS has.

Good news is that there is always demand for 12" parts

Yes = Or buy the pipes from the Club's Parts Project on their website. = Yes Perhaps may need some tweaking, but your time is best spent reinventing the wheel via some other project.

Someone in club has reproduced the header pipes - keep asking (when you see an original there is no going to a muffler shop done one) - Also they are wrapped (at least the originals I have seen). You should also be able to find a nice reproduction muffler As to the tailpipe - Franklin narrowed it down and if you go say 2" out the exhaust you should pick up some horsepower. Perhaps Paul Fitzpatrick has some better advise as to where to find parts.

Beautiful car and well done too !

Maybe 18 years ago I priced out a 1931 V-16 engine rebuild - cost was 24K for a driver and another 24K extra for a 100 point cosmetics to be done on engine.

The only thing I do not like about the Green V-16 is that they look dazzling with the wheel disks done in polished/chrome finish (all be it plenty of pictures of painted covers). And, it would not take me long to get double whitewalls onto the Red/Maroon V-16. My only advice is that if truly interested someone test it out behind the steering wheel as cars that have fixed front seats are a mixed bag as to comfort for the driver. That said, I am not seeing too many driven, so if just going to be a garage queen and showfield queen then both suit the need.

When at all possible I believe in sticking with the original color (especially if build sheets, factory photos, or ...) - if truly horrid, perhaps tweak it a shade or two, but surprisingly some of the odd colors of the various periods get some solid attention. I have an unrestored 1936 Auburn in the storage building that was originally Black, but must have been pained Neptune Blue to sell it off the lot - odd but popular color for the time and probably would stand out as impressive on a show field. Relatives had a 1935 Packard Twelve Coupe-Roadster that sported original turquoise -blue paint with chrome wheels hub/spokes on painted rims - and when sold the next owner immediately painted the car bright red and chromed the wire wheels. Sort of criminal in my opinion to touch it to begin with, though especially that something with photos from day one was turned into something it never was.

Me too !

I just had Rhode Island Wire make me 00 cables for the 1936 Auburn 852. Someone said to me the other day - well the original 0 wcables worked just fine - well, yes they did "just what they were supposed to (Auburn probably bid it out and took the lowest bid or ....) - I am dealing with car near 85 years old car, paint all over every part, like nice bright lights, like starting when hot on a fresh/tight engine rebuild, and ...

Nice !

Well, RR market is pretty weak at moment too - very challenging in engineering/complexity cars matched to lots of torque, but limited top end - I can go into much more detail as well as to "why."