Mark Shaw

I agree with Joe. The freeze plug will be in the engine block and not the head. You have two options to fix it. Remove the engine or make an access hole in the firewall from under the dash. I had this problem with my son's 29 Buick and found a flap that was made by the previous owner or his very clever mechanic. He drilled 1/4" holes in the firewall from inside the car. By drilling a U shaped pattern, he made a flap directly opposite the freeze plug that allowed him to replace it without removing the engine.

I beleive Leif is correct. My 1913 model 31 has only the little 2" badge on the top front center of the radiator shell.

I can alomost hear the 1000 watt sound systems blaring digital internal combustion engine sounds to the crowd as these electric cars zoom by..... That is, just to keep us old gearheads happy....

Perhaps they would be the same location as a 38?

Roberta, I just got back from a business trip to Colorado & made a stop at the host hotel. It is over 250 yards from the Doubletree and would require crossing a very busy street.

If it is going to be an over-restored trailer queen, go ahead and paint the aluminum. If it will be driven on tours & restored as original, don't waste your time.... My 2 cents...

I have a Silvarado 4X4 1/2 ton Z71 with the small v8 engine and get just under 20 mpg empty. The only modifications are a tonneau cover and a K&N filter in the factory housing. I tow both open and enclosed trailers with the cars listed below and get about 12 mpg when towning either trailer. Note that I use the open trailer to haul the heavier truck & sedan..... The biggest variable is starts & stops. More stops = lower mileage. I just takes lots more fuel to get the weight moving and much less to keep it rolling. Hills almost cancel out since you use more going up and less going down, but you will get overall lower mileage than on the flat.

It seems you have different answers from different people. I agree that sealing the inside is a good thing to do. I have several cars with aluminum crankcases and none of them has paint on the outside of the case..

Stuart, I spoke with Jack Gerstkemper last night on the phone. He had a really great time and spoke very well of you and all the tours & shows. I too am looking forward to more photos....

Having a garage tour right after moving in is probably the best time to do it. If you are like most of us, a year or more later you will have just too much stuff to clean up for a tour. Congratulations on the new place. Looks like a good time was had by all!

Rob, I know what you mean.... It really takes getting used to brakes that work like a new car. If I don't remember I am in a 38 Buick, I tend to stand it on it's nose!

Brad, Try this link: http://www.manheimgold.com/car_lo.html

Byron, I have never needed to use a puller on a Buick steering wheel with throttle and advance levers. I just remove the levers, apply PB Blaster penetrating oil and wait overnight for it to work. Then I use some gentle persuasion with a small hammer and wood block against the hub next to the steering column. This has always done the trick for me. There is no need to protect the tubes with this method.

Just say a prayer if you are trying to go from 50 mph to a dead stop.....you cannot expect the same performance you get with your everyday driver. Actually, it just sounds like you are due to service your brakes. It also pays to check a few things to make sure the guy that rebuilt your brakes did it right. Check and adjust the break rods so when you apply the brakes the levers are at 90 degrees from the horizontal brake rods. This will provide the maximum leverage during braking. Also, lubricate all the brake rod pins and bearings. Check for leaky seals that may have oiled or greased your brake linings. Outside brakes can accumulate dirt, oils, wax, etc from normal use. Just squirt and ample amount of break cleaner between the drum and the lining to dissolve any oils. Inspect the linings. Are they made of the correct friction material? They should show even wear all the way around. If not, adjust the bands until they match the contour of the drums. Hope this helps...

Thanks for the quick response Steve. Any others?

A friend of a friend acquired an antique brass auto lamp manufactured by the C.M. Hall Company in Detroit. It bears a patent stamp of June 8, '09. We are trying to identify, as closely as possible, the year(s) and make of car(s) that it may have been used with. It is all brass with a triple chimny and has a brass bale. I can forward an email with a photo, but cannot post it here. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Many thanks,

My buddy has a CarterCar and I believe he keeps 50# air in his tires. You should be able to read them while standing in front of the car.

Yes, and after a long cruise on a nice day, they're all thirsty girls....

There has been lots of discussion on this subject, and this is just one opinion from an old car enthusiast: Personally, I use 30wt or 10w-30wt non-detergent oils in my prewar cars that do not have oil filters. Detergents & associated additives scrub and hold particulate in suspension so it can be removed by filters;...no filter...no detergents needed. Older engines were designed for non-detergent oils that allow the particulate to drop out in the pan. Regular oil changes and periodic cleaning of sludge from the oil pan was the standard method of removing dirt from old engines. The one potential problem with modern oils is the relatively recent removal of zinc additives to prolong catalytic converter life in modern cars. Oils without zinc have been documented to increase wear on camshafts and pushrod bearings. If your car has roller bearings running on the camshaft, you are probably OK using oils without zinc. Otherwise, you can use oils formulated for diesel engines that still have the zinc additives.

If in fact, you are not a profiteer, you could just offer it to the guy with the need and ask only that you should get a ride in his car on the next PWD AfterTour.... Otherwise, be fair and just ask him what he is willing to pay.

Yesterday's local BCA Portland OR chapter cruise was loaded with 38 & 39 buicks. Just look at the lineup at this gas station....

Ken, I run a BB1 carb on my 13 model 31 Buick with great success. There were three sizes of this carb. Hopefully, the previous owner matched the carb to the displacement of the engine. Check the gasket between the carb & the manifold to make sure the hole in the carb flange is exposed to the vacuum in the manifold. I have an exploded view of the BB1 in a pdf file. Send me a direct email and I will forward it to you. durcodude@comcast.net

Yup! K&N type filters that reduce restriction and cold air will produce more power with the same fuel.

Other than the obvious heat and motion sensors that can be installed in your garage or enclosed car trailer, installing a keyed ignition cut-off switch is probably the best way to prevent someone from stealing your collector car. Preventing theft of hub caps etc. is a little harder. Just don't make it easy; Use RTV sealant on your hub caps and remove all the removable "jewelry" from your car when parked outside overnight. My clubs hire parking lot security patrols for all our tours. I always encourage my clubs to contact a local Boy Scout troop and offer $100 per night for their security "campout". Having several older scouts walking around with flashlights and walkie talkies is more effective than a single "rent-a-cop". And, there are always at least two adults with the scouts to take turns on the other end of the walkie talkies and make sure they do their jobs. The boys really enjoy it, and the troops can always use the $$.

Darol Briscoe's article "1938 Drag Racers" was a good read too! I was born in San Jose & graduated from high school and Jr. College in Stockton California. We lived just 12 miles south of what I remember as the Kingdon Drag Strip just outside Lodi California. So Darol's article really took me back to the "good old days" in Northern California with another great story about prewar Buicks. (I just had to get that in).