Mark Shaw

One of my buddies in E. Wa needs to ID this engine. If you know, please email durcodude@comcast.net Thanks,

Ethanol will cause some rubber and other elastomer compounds to swell and/or deteriorate. Make sure your carb and fuel pump have been rebuilt within the last ten years and you should already have compatable elastomer seals and diaphragms.

Do you know what engine they came from? What is the center to center mounting measurement? Thanks,

Andrew, Try a search on this forum for "Oil" or "oil additives" and you will see lots of opinions about what to use in old engines.... Personally, I use the lowest cost non-detergent I can find. My research indicates that the special additives to prevent cam wear are necessary only for new or rebuilt engines. You car may not have an oil filter, and if it does, it probably filters only part of the oil going to the rocker assy. You can find aftermarket filter housings for the old basket type filters, or just buy a spin on adapter if you don't care to show your car.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Part Number: 92620A779 $7.99 per Pack of 10 Head Style Standard Hex Material Type Steel Finish Zinc-Plated Grade/Class Grade 8 System of Measurement Inch Inch Thread Size 9/16"-18 Length 1-1/4" Head Width 13/16" Head Height 23/64" Thread Length Fully Threaded Thread Fit Class 2A Thread Direction Right Handed Self-Locking Method None Rockwell Hardness Minimum C33 Minimum Tensile Strength 150,000 psi Specifications Met American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME), Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) ASME Specification ASME B18.2.1 SAE Specification SAE J429 Screw Quantity Individual Screw

David, It takes less than an hour. Slice a section of radiator hose to match the width of the pedal. Punch or burn holes in it to match the ones in the throttle rod and foot pedal. The throttle rod length can be adjusted on the top end, so mount the other end very close to the pedal. Attach the rubber to the rod first, and get under the car to attach the rubber to the pedal. Provided your vacuum switch is still functional, you can eliminate your starter button. You should also be able to start the car with the throttle knob on the far left side of the dash.

Lots of reproductions are avaiable on Ebay.

You are only as old as you want to be. After all, we all still play with cars.... I still think of myself as one of the younger guys... I will be 57 in February and have nothing but prewar cars. I enjoy doing my own work on them because I don't need high tech analyzers or special tools to work on my cars. I also spend lots of time working on cars for my older friends in this hobby and have learned lots of tricks and always enjoy hearing the tales about cars from older car guys.

This does not appear to be and original GM trunk. It could be an aftermarket trunk. There were many made for 20s & 30s cars.

That would not be an electronic ignition.

That appears to be an updraft carb for a car in the Teens.

Hugh, Please post a photos of the steering gearbox & parts you need, and advise your location. I have one for a 24 Buick that may work.

Please post a photo. The lug bolt heads can be very different. I have several different types.

Jason, I am not at home where I can check my references on your model, but my 24 Master six has metal supports one each side of the windshield. The only wood part is where the top bow mounts on the pins at the top corners. Are you sure you have a wood framed windshield?

Great to see we have a site and a couple of good guys to head up the program. I cannot commit that far out, but will gladly help if timing works out with my work travel. I strongly suggest we have a meeting in Colorado Springs to establish more details and recruit more help. Way to go guys...

If you have a smart guy at your local Radio Shack store, he could probably tell you what parts you need. Simply put...you will need an electronic trigger on each spark plug wire connected to a relay for each ventiport light.

It sounds like one of the many aftermarket bumpers sold by dealers for a variety of cars. I have seen tube bumpers with slight bends at each end with plated plugs in the ends of the tubes. Single and double tubes were relatively common on cars in the teens and twenties.....

It would be the same as an Olds from the same period.

Try Bob's: http://www.bobsautomobilia.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/SID=1226342054.25943/page=product.html/product=720

They are called "belleville spring washers". By stacking these washers you can build a spring loaded assembly. We use them on packing gland followers for valve applications where temperature varies enough to cause leaks. You can find them here under "steel belleville spring washers": http://www.mcmaster.com/ Catalog page 1195.

Arbys, It already drives like a speedster. I plan to make a matching canvas cover for the bed with roll-up sides & back. It should work great for selling stuff at swap meets...

I would check the condenser & timing first, then look at a spark plug to see if they show signs of lean or rich fuel mix.

Is this what you need? http://www.kanter.com/p56-fek.html

It would still make a cool Packard PU Truck! Buick didn't make this PU either:

Those "old timers" wern't so dumb after all...