Mark Shaw

Model 31 Buicks are great tour cars with plenty of power and they relatively easy to maintain. This is an early one with gas lights and brass fittings. Feel free to contact me if you need some additional mechanical info on this car.

Reed, What series?

Chuck, Perhaps you should re-read the first paragraph in my last post. There is no arguement here... I think I will just stick to the other forums and let you guys remain within the world of the CCCA.

You might try posting this on the Buick Buy/Sell forum.

Thanks Brian, Everyone had a great time.... I think it was a 1940 Limited....wasn't it?

If you have original engine mounts, I would check to see if they are too hard or compressed. They may not be absorbing vibration...

With regard to painting antique cars, I used Interlux Brightside Polyurethane on my 13 Buick. It comes in Dark Blue #4316 that replicates the original Blue/Black color offered in 1913. It looks very original on both the wood and metal parts of the car. Since the car has a wood body, I used paint made for wood boats. Modern automotive paints are just too inflexible for a wood bodied car. It is a one step paint that smooths out nicely so touch-ups can easily be applied with a brush. It was only $30 per quart too.

I have a complete engine from a 1931 50 series, but your friend needs a conrod with the correct diameter babbitt to match the bearing journal. Has he measured it?

Cardinal, Yes, you can hang a gravity tank. Just make sure it is vented. I suggest you check the main jet and readjust it to provide enough gas for high speed operation. Two weeks ago, my son asked for help in adjusting his 29 Buick carb. I removed the carb. from the car, removed the three bottom screws that attach the float bowl to the venturi and removed & cleaned all three jets. The longer jets are idle and accellerator pump jets that are not adjustable, but they do require the correct setting for the big air control knob. (The spring inside the knob should have a fat spot in the middle). Start with the big knob even with the end of the stop tang and adjust it in and out until the engine idles smoothly in between. Only the shorter larger diameter high speed jet is adjustable via a needle valve under the venturi. (The needle adjustment knob is the disc with holes in it). Make sure the needle is straight and the leather seal is in place before assembly. It should be about three turns out to test run. Adjust it out until it runs at high speed without backfire. It will take several tries to get it right.

Mike, There are two 23 roadsters in my area. Get out your BCA roster and call Dave Ebert Sr or Jack Gerstkemper in SW Washington State. Jack is currently at the Aussie BCA Nationals, so you might want to wait a week or so...

Hey Cardinal, My older cars have spring loaded toggle switches mounted next to the brake rod. A little U clamp mounted on the rod trips the toggle when the brake rod moves. It is very simple and parts can be had at Radio Shack and your local hardware store. However, the brake switch you seek can also be had at www.restorationstuff.com page 4 of their pdf catalog. Good luck,

Here is an updated photo of my 24 Truck at the 2007 BCA National Meet with a new top. My previous post in this thread included a photo from 2003 when I picked it up in Des Moines.

Early 20s Winton?

I am actually looking for a pair of reflectors for my 24 Buick Truck. But I would not recommend parting out the pair. If they are truely in good condition, you should be able to get over $100 for the pair. It really depends on how many other parts cars are out there... Check the completed listings on Ebay for more clues.

Stevo, The rubber bulb cannot produce enough suction to draw in viscous oils. My slurp gun looks more like a caulking gun with a hand grip to pull the plunger.

Peter, I don's know why, but I could not respond to your previous post on this subject. You cite only one definition... Here is some of the rest of the story according to Wikipedia... "Classic Car Club of America A 1928 Ford Model A which may be considered a classic car by the CCCA.The Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) claims to have invented the term classic car and thus it believes that the true definition of the term is its. According to the CCCA: A CCCA Classic is a fine or distinctive automobile, either American or foreign built, produced between 1925 and 1948. Generally, a Classic was high-priced when new and was built in limited quantities. Other factors, including engine displacement, custom coachwork and luxury accessories, such as power brakes, power clutch, and "one-shot" or automatic lubrication systems, help determine whether a car is considered to be a Classic. The Club keeps an exhaustive list of the vehicles it considers classics, and while any member may petition for a vehicle to join the list, such applications are carefully scrutinized and rarely is a new vehicle type admitted. This rather exclusive definition of a classic car is not universally followed, however, and this is acknowledged by the CCCA: while it still maintains the true definition of "classic car" is its, it generally uses terms such as CCCA Classic or the trademarked Full Classic to avoid confusion. United States legal definition: Legally, most states have time-based rules for the definition of "classic" for purposes such as antique vehicle registration; for example, Pennsylvania defines it as "A motor vehicle, but not a reproduction thereof, manufactured at least 15 years prior to the current year which has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformity with manufacturer specifications and appearance." Antique Automobile Club of America The Antique Automobile Club of America defines an antique car as 25 years old or older."

One other method is to use a "slerp gun". It is just like a big syringe for removing and replacing fluids. I found one at a garage sale, and it sure saves wear & tear on gaskets. But, if you have not cleaned up & inspected the rear end, you should pull the rear cover anyway.

I have a nicely done sealed beam set up on my 38 Buick, but would like to change back to original. Anybody rodding a 37-38 Buick who has an original set up? durcodude@comcast.net

Buick and Cadillac were very similar. In 1929, Buick brightwork was chrome on the outside of the car but were still all nickel inside. This continued at least through 1931.

If you think this will work for you, send me an email for dimensions & details. durcodude@comcast.net

Right Jerry, And don't forget the fourth P... "Puick". Where would we all be today without Buick's overhead valve engine?

A Model 81 is a four door six passenger touring sedan. 80 series cars were the second largest cars made that year with a 133" wheel base. Total production was 3810 cars which sold for $1553. Interiors were tan or gray broadcloth or tan or grey leather. Dave Corbin can help you verify engine & frame numbers.

Stevo, When you are the first to arrive......

I am sure he will be doing at least one of the tours. Look for his PWD touring hat. I am sure he took it with him because his head would burn without it. You won't have to twist his arm to get him to have a beer either... Have fun!

We visited three covered bridges and had a great catered lunch at the Staton Bridge park. We also had a short walk through the park & a talk on the history of Staton Bridge. We drove over two other covered bridges on the tour after lunch. The parking lot shot is from the top floor of the hotel Friday evening before the tour. About half of the cars had arrived when this photo was taken. The last stop was Willamette Valley Vinyards where we had lots of wine, cheese, crackers...etc. Most of the group took a tour of the winery and their cool cellers....it was late afternoon on a very hot day. More to come when others send their photos...