Mark Shaw

Just ask for a 6V coil for a VW.

Matt, You are on the right track using a combination of heat, cold, and penetrating oil. First, understand that I do not have one of these carbs with the rotating heat control, but I do know that this part of your carburator is unnecessary to operate your car. Modern gasolines do not require pre-heat to run properly, it will just take a bit longer for the engine to warm up. I would first use PB Blaster penetrating oil to help dissolve the corrosion. Give it time to work overnight. Then heat the outside of the casting and cool the internal rotating part with ice (dry ice works best). Add more oil just before trying to move the parts. All three in combination should eventually free the parts. Just be patient and work the moving parts back and forth in very small increments. You may have to repeat this over several days to get this done.

You can use any 6V coil just to get it running. You can get an original Delco at a swap meet later.

You might try posting this on the BCA buy/sell list

Stuart, At this point, you could drive your Buick roadster over to see him every month or so & give him a ride just to keep him encouraged. Maybe you could invite him on one or two tours too?

OUCH! We all feel for you Bill. Just remember that it could have been much worse.... As long a you and Dee are OK, you can always get the old Buick fixed. Good luck finding a paint and body expert in Austin.

I may have one & will check today. Please send me a direct email with your location and/or zip code.

Jules, Yes, as I previously stated: "Replacing it with a simple fuse will work to protect your lighting circuits."

Mike, Study the diagrams on this site & you will know how to wire it. http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/Relay_Wiring.pdf

Neil, I do not consider myself to be an expert, but my 38 Special has a painted cover. Since the Specials were the low end of this model, I doubt that it would be factory plated.

Jules, Well, I looked it up in my Specifications. & Adjustments manual and found that you are probably asking about the current limit relay mounted under the dash. Basically it functions as a thermal overload (or breaker) only for the lighting circuits that will make a buzzing sound when the lighting circuit is becoming overloaded. Replacing it with a simple fuse will work to protect your lighting circuits. But if you need a scan of the adjustment instructions, just send me a direct email. durcodude@comcast.net

Have we ever had one in Canada? Last time I checked, Canada was still in North America; & it seems that we have many BCA members in Canada. I have seen several postings of meets and tours & great car museums in Canada. Passports are now required;.... but why not Canada?

36-38 Buicks. Are you selling it?

I know it would be correct for my 38 Buick. Are you selling?

Jules, Do you mean the cut-out...(the little box on top of the generator)?

Please try to send me a direct email with a photo. Thanks, durcodude@comcast.net

Scott, According to The "Standard Catalog of American Cars", The Century was only available in the 60 series with a 126" wheelbase.

I have a scanner....

Gene, I can take some photos with a tape measure showing the location if you like.

DocsGal, Please check your private mail....

Windjammer, Go to this site and look at page 49 regarding rims with radials. http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/2008Catalog/WebCatalog1_hi.pdf

The 12-14 gauge control wires are most probably set up for a vehicle with brake control wiring already in the dash harness. I would go ahead and use the 10 gauge for any wire runs to the rear of the vehicle.

According to "The Standard Catalog of American Cars", Side mounts were an option for this car.

Uneven running sounds like one or more valves may be sticking. Recheck your tappets & put a little Marvel mystery oil in your gasoline. I use one little airline booze bottle for every ten gallons in my 13 Buick. It helps keep the valves from sticking on their seats. Couldn't hurt to check to see if the rockers are getting enough oil. You might try oiling the rocker assy and the valve stems too.

I suggest you test your battery connections by connecting your meter to the positive terminal on the battery and the negative directly to the starter body. Sometimes the engine, frame, & ground cable routing just isn't good enough on older cars to provide full starting power with a good battery. This starting problem might be solved with an additional ground strap connected directly from the starter mounting bolt to the negative terminal of the battery.