hddennis

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-chrysler-antique-auto-winged-radiator-cap-hood-ornament-stanco-excellent-/201413398200?hash=item2ee52c8eb8 Not Mine but somebody needs this. What a beautiful cap! Howard Dennis

Here's another possible source for information who does beautiful work. Some pictures online seem to suggest your emblem "might" have 2 colors and to my eye it appears as if it was originally a golden base color, maybe plated? Howard Dennis http://www.maxwellenamels.com/Gallery.html eBay has some emblems listed now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1920S-TEENS-CHRYSLER-RADIATOR-SHROUD-BADGE-EMBLEM-for-Restore-/281774573332?hash=item419b12c714&vxp=mtr

Bob, thanks for getting me to Google a car I had never heard of, What a beauty! Howard Dennis

Thanks, I'm afraid that after all the sealers I've tried the tops would be so contaminated it would be just another doomed attempt. These are hard batteries to find and Interstate is one of the only ones to still list them. If their online picture is of their current product I've gotten lucky as they still look like the original style batteries. I'm currently waiting for a reply from my local Interstate distributor as to availability. Howard Dennis

Been there, Done That! Thus " I've re-cleaned and sealed the top of these FOUR times in the last 6 months". First I used asphalt based caulking from Lowes Failed Second, Third And Fourth time was that stuff you see on TV "Flex Seal" It has at least 8 coats of that and it lasted the longest, Till it Failed! AND after each top seal I sprayed the cleaned terminals with HEAVY coats of battery terminal corrosion sealer AND new anti-corrosion felt washers and each time they all failed. The only thing left is to completely dig out the original tar which was put in hot so I doubt it would come out without heat and replace it with hot tar and at this point I've expended enough time and money and am just going to let these go as cores for modern batteries. Howard Dennis

Howard Dennis

Just thought anyone thinking about using a N.O.S. battery would like this: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/176080-battery-id-needed/?p=1394490 Howard Dennis

Just thought I'd revisit this thread as my experience might help someone make a different decision and avoid all the trouble I've had. This "Great Buy" of mine has bit me in the a$$ for the last time! I let these batteries sit dry till late last year and when I was ready to start the car a local battery shop wet them and slowly brought them back to life. I was tickled to death to learn they came back fine and passed all tests. I installed them with brand new custom made period correct cloth covered cables and the car started, ran and charged as new. I then went on a 2 week vacation and came back to find the new terminals and cables corroded and looking like the car had sat for 50 years! I've re-cleaned and sealed the top of these FOUR times in the last 6 months and now I've decided to toss everything and replace with new EXPENSIVE batteries and cables. Had I done this in the first place, I probably would have had none of this additional expense and trouble! A battery company technician told me that since the batteries were so old the original tar had dried out and shrunk away from the terminals letting the acid and gases escape and corrode everything. I wish I had known that last year! Howard Dennis

Wayne, it must be your computer blocking something for some reason? It just now worked for me, when you click on link it just goes to website with a bunch of pictures you have to scroll down to see, nothing to open. Howard Dennis

Stumbled across this site and was originally was going to post in the Speedsters section but decided there were cars most would enjoy and so many one of a kinds. Go all the way to the end, there's something for everyone! Howard Dennis http://motor534.rssing.com/chan-6448829/latest.php

Check Here:http://www.gardnermotorcars.com/Tech.html Howard Dennis

Thanks Guys, Nickelroadster came the closest to what I actually need. There is NO steel involved, just a shaped rubber block held on by 2 leather straps.

Boy, do I feel dumb! Apparently I was looking into this 6 years ago, I either work VERY slow or I'm getting Alzheimer's or both. Any new technology since then? Howard Dennis http://forums.aaca.org/topic/128443-casting-hard-rubber/

I'd like to recreate rubber snubbers for my Maxwell front axle. I thought I'd make a wooden replica and cast hard rubber copies but I don't know what or where do I get the materials needed? Howard Dennis

Why have a link that says view the full article and the link has no article???? Howard Dennis

I could be wrong but I would think this museum's collection would be one of the largest. Sure would like to see it in person. Howard Dennis http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/Complete-Engines.html

If everything is correct on your carb, the choke wire goes on the bottom. I've seen carbs where the butterfly has come loose and been re-soldered in the wrong position so check yours operation. When the wire pulls the lever to the horizontal the butterfly should be fully closing off the carb throat. The fuel line is 5/16th tubing. Howard Dennis

If that is the cowl this car came from the factory with then this car originally had full doors with roll up windows as the solid windshield posts can clearly be seen to have been hacked off the cowl. Howard Dennis

Just purchased this Feb. 1917 Maxwell Magazine and had to share the neat little Maxwell factory speedster pictured in it. Howard Dennis

Windshield posts have been cut but the rear quarters look unaltered so my guess would be a soft top coupe, don't know what Plymouth called them, maybe Sport Coupe? Howard Dennis

I see a black smudge but I fail to see any door hinges and since Maxwells have hidden hinges I'm sticking with my guess. Howard Dennis

Door, cowl shape and large nut on bottom of windshield post suggest 1916-17 Maxwell 25 to my eye. Howard Dennis

Here's what it looks like. A very distinctive looking carb, often mistaken for a small engine or motorcycle carburetor because of it's small size. Howard Dennis

So far no trouble with the new forum EXCEPT my photos as well as others show up as gigantic! What am I doing wrong? I just tried to view the 1936 Cadillac for sale and the pictures are so big I can't tell what the whole car looks like.

As a non T owner who also needs this could someone tell me why the 23-25 versions cost so much less. Is the 23-25 version brass also and what are the dimensions? Thanks, Howard Dennis