hddennis

Ian, picture 1 shows the large bolt that has to be loosened so you can rotate the circular stamping that holds the tail of the spring and get it to engage a hardened pin that is pressed into the head. Picture 2 shows my car during assembly. Notice it was very easy to make the adjustment because the radiator was out of the way and it was possible to swing the fan from loose on the drivers side to tight on the passenger side. After I got my car together the fan belt was too loose from stretching and I had a shorter one made. That is when the fun started because the fan now hits the radiator so it was impossible to swing the fan from the drivers side over to the passenger side to tighten the tension. Picture 3 shows the jury rigging way I had to resort to in order to get the spring rewound and back into the swing arm. After getting the spring rewound I had to hold it to the arm with the hose clamp. I then found out the spring was now too far away from the drilled hole in the arm so I had to tighten wire around the spring to draw it towards the hole till I could press the spring in the hole and remove the wire and hose clamp. Hope this helps, it's NOT a fun job! Howard Dennis

I just HAVE to ask, did the add really say "383 Hemi"?? Howard Dennis

Looking to buy a coil for use on a Model 25 Maxwell with a Simms-Huff ignition system. Howard Dennis

Looking to buy a coil for use on a Model 25 Maxwell with a Simms-Huff ignition system. Howard Dennis

Bob, I used one of these decades ago and was very pleased with the results, got rid of 95% of my chip/star. On the same note I just noticed a 1/2 inch long edge crack in my early Warner Lenz for my Maxwell headlight lense and wondered if anyone knows if the modern over the counter kit or even a professional service could prolong the death of this rare lense? Howard Dennis

http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Plymouth_Ignition_Coil.html Howard Dennis

"One other item - someone mentioned they were going to remove the shellac and recoat. I have had zero success trying to coat anything that had previously been in fuel. If you find something that works, would like to know about it." So if I read this correctly, once a cork float has been used it can't be reused? Howard Dennis

Funny how reacting without All the facts can bite you in the butt! I took the top off the carb and started asking questions on what I saw. This morning after all the discussions I decided to remove the float and I found it was shellaced years ago which has all dried up and cracked so I guess I'll see if I can dissolve the shellac and recoat it. Howard Dennis

Just acquired a nice original brass carburetor for my 1917 Maxwell. The float looks perfect and appears to NOT have any type coating just very tight grained natural cork. Do I HAVE to seal it or can I run it as is? Thanks for any help or suggestions, Howard Dennis

Having owned 2 1966 Hemi Coronet's in the past, when I want my fix, I go here: I love when she switches to nitro! Howard Dennis

I finally found it again! Howard Dennis http://www.mar-k.com/CustomForms/index.aspx

While searching the internet I found a place that would custom make pickup bed skid strips. The website had a form you downloaded and put all the measurements for length and hole placement. I can't seem to find it again. Does anyone know who does this? Howard Dennis

SOLD! SOLD! SOLD! Thanks for your interest. Howard Dennis

Still have this RARE gauge. Open to reasonable offers. Howard Dennis

[h=2]Maxwell Engine Confusion[/h] Hello Maxwell Forum, I have an engine identification quandary that I had previously posted in the Chrysler / Mopar forum but now believe that the engine is indeed a Maxwell thanks to 61polara, so I am hoping that the good folk in this forum will be able to assist me. The engine below was used in a stationary capacity to power equipment on a farm some years ago and was believed to be a Maxwell. The engine number is 441290. A forum member has suggested it to be a 1923 Maxwell due to the serial number sequence that year of 388530-444231, however I have been advised by another enthusiast that this sequence is for body numbers and engine numbers started with a 'C' prefix. The other confusing issue for me is that if this is a Maxwell engine, the cylinder head has a separate 'bolt on' housing for the top radiator hose outlet which is identical to the later Chrysler Four series 58,50 & 52 (1926 thu 28) and the Plymouth Q. Whereas a Maxwell cylinder head has the top hose outlet cast into head. Considering the Chrysler four succeeded the 'Good Maxwell' of 1925, would the later head design fit the earlier model Maxwell engine? The casting numbers on the exhaust manifold match a Maxwell and so do the appearance of the remainder of parts. Any thoughts, expert opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Attachment 297578 I brought this here from the Maxwell forum hoping someone could identify this Plymouth head. Howard Dennis

Martin, I think you'll have better luck posting this on the Plymouth section. In both 1929 and 1930 Plymouth made a model U and your head has a U casting number so maybe a Plymouth owner can pin it down. Howard Dennis

Here's two things I notice that don't seem right. With the front steering being buggy like it almost seems like a car created out of a buggy. That radiator is definitely from a much later car that had a hood. Howard Dennis

I must admit I'm a bit surprised at all the negativity about the asking price for what has to be an extremely rare chassis. If you needed just the block, transmission or differential for your car what would you be willing to pay? I just spent years and about 3 times this much to get enough parts to assemble a working rear axle for my 1917 Maxwell. It involved shipping parts all over the world and a lot of begging people to disassemble and ship parts to me and this was for a car 10 times more common than this Mitchell. Do any of you complainers have parts for my Maxwell your willing to sell for next to nothing? Howard Dennis

Don't know how accurate the description is but here's one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-1933-1934-1935-Oldsmobile-GM-Radio-Control-Head-Vintage-Dash-/201284554086?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2edd7e8d66&vxp=mtr Howard Dennis

Dennis, thanks for asking, most wouldn't. I'm just interested in seeing what must be some hard to find parts where they can do the most good. Howard Dennis

Dennis, here's the link, good luck : http://www.ebay.com/itm/301528525429?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Howard Dennis

This light is listed online with 2 carbide miners lights and it says they are all carbide but this one looks electric to me. Anyone know what it is or fits? Howard Dennis

This chassis has some real unusual features such as carb heater through head water passage, transmission placement, rear spring suspension, early use of thermostat. What is it fellows? Howard Dennis

Just bought this Atwater-Kent condenser for my 1917 Maxwell and it is a tad too wide as the contacts on mine are at exact right angles to the condenser and it is too thick to fit my housing. Does anyone have books to identify this one by sight or part number? Howard Dennis Above is what I bought Below is what I need