hddennis

mrcvs, since you have an all original Maxwell I wondered if you could help me with a measurement? My Maxwell Light delivery came to me with the entire seating area missing. I need the measurement from the floorboards up to the top of the seat cushion. Also the measurement from the bottom of the steering wheel rim down to the top of the seat cushion. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Bob, just curious as to why you feel the need to convert your 33 to 12 volts? Having driven a bone stock 6 volt 1936 Dodge through thousands of miles in NY state winters as an everyday car for three years and never having that car fail to start I get annoyed when people butcher a car because someone convinces them they will be more reliable if all 6 volt items are changed. How do you think your car got to be 81 years old if the system was so unreliable? There is nothing wrong with that system as long as everything is rebuilt to factory specs and wiring and grounds and bearings and bushings are as new. Howard Dennis

Bob, speaking of Bugatti's, you fellows ever follow up on what happened to the Bugatti 100P airplane that used to hang in the rafters? Howard Dennis http://oldmachinepress.wordpress.com/2012/11/01/bugatti-model-100p-racer/

With the information above I found this picture. Sure was a beautifully finished car. Howard Dennis

Just read an interesting bit of history on the HCCA library site related to this gauge. Apparently Webb Jay the famous race car driver of "Whistling Billy" the White steamer brought out the vacuum tank system in 1913 and Stewart Warner bought it in 1914. Howard Dennis Webb Jay Gravity Feed-The Webb Jay Motor Devices Co.,. Chicago, Ill., has brought out a system which 'changes pressure to gravity gasoline feed. This system does away with hand and power pumps and leaves the gasoline tank in the rear. The device is a brass can, Fig. 8, 10 inches high and 5 inches in diame'ter, fitted with three copper pipe connections, one coming from the gasoline tank, or the line, another running to the intake manifold and a third to the carbureter. When the engine is opera.ting the suction of the pistons creates a partial vacuum in the container, because the piston suction acts through the pipe leading from the intake manifold to the container. In order to prevent the piston suction affecting the carbureter there is inserted in the container a flap valve. It is evident that as soon as suction takes place this valve will close, forming two compart-i ments in the container. The float and its mechanism shown is the same in principle as the float of tlje carbureter. As the level of gasoline rises in the container the' float rises and when the container is full the needle valve will shut off the pipe from the intake manifold, thus stopping the suction. The flap valve will now open due to the weight of gasoline above it and this gasoline will drop to the lowe~ chamber. and thence to the carbureter. Any water or dirt in the fuel will drop to the bottom of the chamber and may be drained-periodically.

BTT

Love the streamlined radiator cap, can't figure out if it is a Motometer or rearview mirror but should be a clue to car's identity. Howard Dennis

Bhambulldog, I couldn't help but wonder if a replacement ribbon couldn't be found so I located this and hope you can get the information to the owner. Howard Dennis https://www.etsy.com/listing/193302547/vintage-military-purple-heart-ribbon?ref=sc_2&plkey=c8658afdb978163592a7482ff166913a3cf3b92a%3A193302547&ga_search_query=purple+heart+ribbon&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery

Gary, I just re-read your post and you mention " A number of spacer washers". I'm hoping your memory is wrong. Here is the correct order from the back side of the disc: B5668 fork, B5624 race, B5669 bearing, B5625 race, and lastly B5244 lock ring. Howard Dennis

Gary, Boy do I feel your pain on this one! I just now finished taking my car apart for the second time and finding absolutely nothing wrong. I even took both shafts out trying to find previous damage or alterations and found it was in perfect condition and assembled exactly as Maxwell intended. From this last teardown I can only conclude that Maxwell engineers designed this system to have almost no freeplay. One thing I might add is unlike conventional clutches where the clutch fork pushes the throw out bearing to release the clutch this Maxwell fork PULLS the bearing and disc and you need to keep that in mind when assembling it. Good Luck, Howard Dennis

Thank you Guys for your help. The base is a separate casting and is 13 1/2 inches long. Wings at shoulder 4 1/2 inches wide and 4 inches wide at tips. Howard Dennis

Thanks John, I appreciate the help, was shocked I couldn't turn up anything by the part #, that almost always works on a popular car. Howard Dennis

Just acquired a Cadillac hood ornament part # 4459705. can anyone tell me what year this fits? Howard Dennis

Just acquired a Cadillac hood ornament part # 4459705. can anyone tell me what year this fits? Howard Dennis

Gary, you sure got that tough car part right! I'm 66 and have worked on antique cars since I was 12 but this car has done things to me I have never even heard of. Here's one for the books. When I first went to start this thing I bought non-detergent Shell 30w. The next morning the garage floor was covered with small puddles from every gasket and bolt on this newly rebuilt engine. Turns out I purchased mislabeled synthetic oil and it is known to leak where other oil won't. Add to that the fact that over these many years I have had so much trouble removing Permatex # 2 from parts others had assembled I vowed to never use it myself. Jump ahead to a Maxwell with a wet clutch and a gasketed bell housing and guess what I used on this assembly? SO now I may have to chisel the transmission off, make a new gasket and drop the transmission so I can wire wheel off the Permatex on both surfaces! This used to be a fun hobby but my fun meter's pegged with this car! Howard Dennis

Thanks Gary, at least we know we both have the same clutch. I couldn't wrap my head around your first reply and your second sounded good till I went out to my car and saw what B5774 actually did. I had previously adjusted this before when I put my transmission back in after my clutch was destroyed from me backing off the 3 clutch springs. The reason I adjusted it before was because I was making the final adjustments on my restoration of this chassis before test driving it. I had just finished adjustment of the brakes and noticed the clutch and brake pedal were out of alignment. After studying it I discovered the bolts you mentioned and found they allow you to adjust the clutch pedal in relation to the floorboard. They really don't have anything to do with the free play. Just to make sure I wasn't wrong I just loosened the bolts hoping you were right and my free play would magically appear, nope, pedal now moves freely in that slot but B5774 is solidly connected to the clutch fork with no free play even after loosening the bolt on B5774 hoping it would rotate on the shaft. It appears to me B5774 is keyed to the clutch pedal shaft with a woodruff key and the bolt just locks it all together. I'm at the point now where I believe I have two possible problems: # 1 scenario is the previous restorer assembled the clutch fork in between the bearing and it's race and that has eaten up all my free play. # 2 scenario is that the first restorer had the clutch relined with a material too thick and that has pushed the cone farther out of the flywheel and that has eaten up all my free play. I just ordered a digital inspection camera to see inside the cramped bell housing so I can see where the fork is hitting. Howard Dennis

Gary, I just re-read your response and you mention pressure plate fingers? If you have a pressure plate, your clutch is NOT a cone clutch like mine??? Howard Dennis

Gary, Thanks for responding. Could you run through this again using the factory part numbers from this page so I can follow this and understand what I need to do? The only bolt I remember is to tighten the pedal to the shaft? Howard Dennis

Thanks Layden, but the area I need to see is hidden in that picture. From what I can figure from the parts book it looks like the pedal, shaft and bearing are all linked with no free play. Howard Dennis

After my previous disaster from adjusting my Maxwell clutch I've got it all back together and have adjusted the bolts tighter in the hopes of getting a better feeling pedal. Since this was assembled originally by a previous owner over a half century ago I have no way of knowing what is and isn't correct nor do I understand how it works. My main concern is the clutch pedal seems to be connected solidly to the throw out bearing and has no free play at all and I have never seen a car with no free play but this is my first cone clutch set up. Anyone know if this is normal? Have any photos of how the throw out bearing and fork are attached to the bellhousing/transmission case? Howard Dennis

Want to buy Johnson A375 carburetor. Howard Dennis

Just to show you how people need to think before they react. This is part of my Samurai collection and I at first thought it was from the time when Germany and Japan were allied in WWII. Have since found out it is much older and the symbol can represent both a family crest from centuries earlier and/or a Buddhist religious symbol from the same period. Howard Dennis

Google found these on eBay, hope they help. Howard Dennis

The body is a reproduction made for a Model T Ford that I got from another collector. There are quite a few Model t's running around with this body. Personally I hate the look and intend to fill in the routed out sides. Howard Dennis

Wanted to find a Middle Georgia woodworker capable of making floorboards and various wood parts for my 1917 Maxwell Light Delivery as well as helping me restore or replicate the wagon seat. Howard Dennis Byron, GA