hddennis

Thank you Guys for your help. The base is a separate casting and is 13 1/2 inches long. Wings at shoulder 4 1/2 inches wide and 4 inches wide at tips. Howard Dennis

Thanks John, I appreciate the help, was shocked I couldn't turn up anything by the part #, that almost always works on a popular car. Howard Dennis

Just acquired a Cadillac hood ornament part # 4459705. can anyone tell me what year this fits? Howard Dennis

Just acquired a Cadillac hood ornament part # 4459705. can anyone tell me what year this fits? Howard Dennis

Gary, you sure got that tough car part right! I'm 66 and have worked on antique cars since I was 12 but this car has done things to me I have never even heard of. Here's one for the books. When I first went to start this thing I bought non-detergent Shell 30w. The next morning the garage floor was covered with small puddles from every gasket and bolt on this newly rebuilt engine. Turns out I purchased mislabeled synthetic oil and it is known to leak where other oil won't. Add to that the fact that over these many years I have had so much trouble removing Permatex # 2 from parts others had assembled I vowed to never use it myself. Jump ahead to a Maxwell with a wet clutch and a gasketed bell housing and guess what I used on this assembly? SO now I may have to chisel the transmission off, make a new gasket and drop the transmission so I can wire wheel off the Permatex on both surfaces! This used to be a fun hobby but my fun meter's pegged with this car! Howard Dennis

Thanks Gary, at least we know we both have the same clutch. I couldn't wrap my head around your first reply and your second sounded good till I went out to my car and saw what B5774 actually did. I had previously adjusted this before when I put my transmission back in after my clutch was destroyed from me backing off the 3 clutch springs. The reason I adjusted it before was because I was making the final adjustments on my restoration of this chassis before test driving it. I had just finished adjustment of the brakes and noticed the clutch and brake pedal were out of alignment. After studying it I discovered the bolts you mentioned and found they allow you to adjust the clutch pedal in relation to the floorboard. They really don't have anything to do with the free play. Just to make sure I wasn't wrong I just loosened the bolts hoping you were right and my free play would magically appear, nope, pedal now moves freely in that slot but B5774 is solidly connected to the clutch fork with no free play even after loosening the bolt on B5774 hoping it would rotate on the shaft. It appears to me B5774 is keyed to the clutch pedal shaft with a woodruff key and the bolt just locks it all together. I'm at the point now where I believe I have two possible problems: # 1 scenario is the previous restorer assembled the clutch fork in between the bearing and it's race and that has eaten up all my free play. # 2 scenario is that the first restorer had the clutch relined with a material too thick and that has pushed the cone farther out of the flywheel and that has eaten up all my free play. I just ordered a digital inspection camera to see inside the cramped bell housing so I can see where the fork is hitting. Howard Dennis

Gary, I just re-read your response and you mention pressure plate fingers? If you have a pressure plate, your clutch is NOT a cone clutch like mine??? Howard Dennis

Gary, Thanks for responding. Could you run through this again using the factory part numbers from this page so I can follow this and understand what I need to do? The only bolt I remember is to tighten the pedal to the shaft? Howard Dennis

Thanks Layden, but the area I need to see is hidden in that picture. From what I can figure from the parts book it looks like the pedal, shaft and bearing are all linked with no free play. Howard Dennis

After my previous disaster from adjusting my Maxwell clutch I've got it all back together and have adjusted the bolts tighter in the hopes of getting a better feeling pedal. Since this was assembled originally by a previous owner over a half century ago I have no way of knowing what is and isn't correct nor do I understand how it works. My main concern is the clutch pedal seems to be connected solidly to the throw out bearing and has no free play at all and I have never seen a car with no free play but this is my first cone clutch set up. Anyone know if this is normal? Have any photos of how the throw out bearing and fork are attached to the bellhousing/transmission case? Howard Dennis

Want to buy Johnson A375 carburetor. Howard Dennis

Just to show you how people need to think before they react. This is part of my Samurai collection and I at first thought it was from the time when Germany and Japan were allied in WWII. Have since found out it is much older and the symbol can represent both a family crest from centuries earlier and/or a Buddhist religious symbol from the same period. Howard Dennis

Google found these on eBay, hope they help. Howard Dennis

The body is a reproduction made for a Model T Ford that I got from another collector. There are quite a few Model t's running around with this body. Personally I hate the look and intend to fill in the routed out sides. Howard Dennis

Wanted to find a Middle Georgia woodworker capable of making floorboards and various wood parts for my 1917 Maxwell Light Delivery as well as helping me restore or replicate the wagon seat. Howard Dennis Byron, GA

Not really a prototype but one of 100 that were built because Shelby needed to produce 100 of these in order to get homologation papers for eligibility to race in SCCA races, a job they were very good at! Enjoyed bringing #059 back from the dead from 1973-80 as it had been a very thrashed drag racer. Wish I still had it. Howard Dennis

Just simply telling us what this fits might be the trigger to finding a replacement, just my opinion. Howard Dennis

I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one Gary. Fifty years ago I worked for a NAPA auto parts store and I did this exact thing almost daily. We had an Ammco brake lathe and it included a re-archer attachment. We would first measure the drums and check to make sure they were not already oversize, NY state only allowed .060 to be taken out of a drum. After the drums were turned we would re-arch the new relined shoes they had purchased from us to match the drum we had turned. Each drum had it's own matched set of shoes as the drums usually didn't match each other exactly. This was the only proper way to do a complete brake job that included new shoes or turned drums. We did this for many dealerships so it was accepted practice. Howard Dennis

Gary, glad to hear you got your car back on the road to recovery. Howard Dennis

Tim, I was always taught the exact same thing and that is why I will go against what seems to be the norm today and NOT run detergent oil because I don't want debris circulating around my engine, I'd rather have to remove the pan and clean it off the bottom every other blue moon. Howard Dennis

Thanks for the advice, luckily I looked through all my spare parts and located a spare spider. I was able to straighten a slightly bent stud and am now de-rusting it. When I get back from my trip I plan to reassemble everything and try re-adjusting the clutch till I get something I can live with. I had no trouble with the clutch as far as grabbing, it just was so out of adjustment it was almost non-functional. Howard Dennis

Gary, I'm afraid I can't help on this one. My car came to me with a totally rebuilt engine, one reason I decided to tackle such a basket case. I've never had one apart except the rough parts engine in a photo above that had the pan and oil pump knocked off in an accident. It came to me missing those parts and I only have what is in my assembled running engine with no spares. I hope someone on here will chime in and be able to help you. Howard Dennis

According to this site its a 1932 ornament. http://www.oldsmobilesforever.com/Hood%20Ornaments.htm Howard Dennis

Thanks Fellows, I now know loosening the nuts is NOT the way to go so I'll try bottoming them out and then backing off till I get the best function I can live with. At least I know everything was rebuilt. This work was completed in the mid to late 1960's so I doubt it is Kevlar but I could be wrong. Howard Dennis

No, I usually do my own work but I have have been ripped off by almost every machine shop I've had to rely on in the past 50 years. Howard Dennis