K8096

He said it was near the intersection of Chagrin & Lynnfield. As you know, there's a lot of English tutor homes in Shaker. The gas station was closed at the time the photo was taken, and is long gone now. The photo was taken when he was in high school, and he was driving at the time, so that dates it as probably 1953 or 1954. He said there was never anyone around the car, it was there only a short time & then it vanished. I'll be over there again in a few weeks & may try to find that tutor house in the background for the heck of it.

Yeah, you can copy the photos. I gave copies of them to the owner about 15 years ago, so if he doesn't still have them, then shame on him. My dad took the pics in the 1950's. We don't know who owned it at the time.

Here's a couple shots of the current car for sale in the 1950's when it was sitting under a tree behind a gas station in Shaker Heights, OH. It still had it's NY license plates on it when these photos were taken.

Wasn't there a maroon one of these in the Car Corral at Hershey last year or the year before up near the Giant Center. I believe it had a tan top. It sold right away.

And by the way, speaking of rebodied cars, I've been told there are at least 2 1937 Twelve conv. coupes that had their body transplanted from a Super Eight. A friend of mine who has an authentic one had a guy come over a few years ago & he was taking all these pictures & measurements of how the body fits on the back of the frame. Turns out he was going to transplant a Super Eight body to a Twelve chassis & the way the body fits on the rear of the frame is different between the two. Dave is right, you need proof of what the car was in the 1950's or earlier if it's a desirable body style before shelling out big money.

Minor correction AJ, the column shift didn't come out until 1939 on the Twelve, and they didn't all have it. The independent front suspension that came came out in 37 is the other big improvement.

One explanation for the high auction estimate could be the person selling the 1935 victoria is closely associated with RM Auctions, so why not reach for the sky? The car has already been advertised in the CCCA bulletin for many months with no bites, so what does that tell you? I think the auction estimate of 225-275K is very high. Why would you bid on a car at auction (and pay an additional 10% or so auction premium) that you know has been advertised for sale for many months earlier? Undoubtedly, RM will find someone however, they always do. Last year, a completely restored near 100 point blue 1937 Twelve conv. coupe sold for around 330K. In my mind, the conv coupe is way more desirable (and better looking) than the victoria in the 1935-39 years. I would think for 225-275K you would be able to buy a perfect 100 point 35-37 victoria. I don't think any 35-39 Senior Packard sedans have ever been converted to conv sedans. It would be such a monumental task that it would be cheaper to buy an unrestored/older restoration authentic one to start with. Think about it, the windshield frame is entirely different, you'd have to cut the tops off of 4 doors, fabricate metal window frames, fabricate a complex top mechanism, ect, ect. It just wouldn't be worth it. It's not a simple job like removing the top on a 1934 Packard coupe is in order to make it into a coupe roadster, as has been done many times already. I thought the auction estimate for the 1937 conv sedan seemed a little low too. I'll see the car in person at Hershey in a week. Maybe the restoration isn't as perfect as it looks in the pictures. If that car were a true high point car, I would think it would be more in the 225-250K range. But maybe the seller is motivated & they need it gone, or perhaps it's an estate sale.

Could you give me the dimensions on the bumper center bolts?

Looks like a model and not a real car. if it were real then that blade of grass would be 10 feet tall.

The following pictures are from my 2016 Hershey packet. The heading on the page is : Hershey Region AACA Important Notice & Regulations. It states at the bottom of the page, and I quote: "No motor bikes, Segways, scooters, mini-bikes, motorcycles, 2-or-3 wheel bicycles, golf carts, or any other private motorized carts will be allowed to operate on the meet grounds for the safety of our visitors, vendors, and members. Failure to obey this rule will result in removal from the grounds and pre-registration mailing list." I'm not making this up, I am simply restating what the Hershey Region states in their space registration Hershey packet. Maybe part of the hard feelings towards golf carts is because every year it's stated in writing they are not allowed, but then they show up and nothing is done. If Steve is right and nothing can be done to stop them, then this verbage needs to be removed from future flyers in the Hershey packet.

I thought the only people who were supposed to be on golf carts were official Hershey Region or AACA meet volunteers. This has been discussed before. Many golfs always sneak in every year, though I don't know why. It's pretty obvious when you see a pick up truck pull onto the field carrying a golf cart in the bed what they're going to do. They should be stopped at the gate and not allowed onto the field until they lose the golf cart. 3 or 4 wheel electric personal mobility devices I have no problem with, golf carts I do. It is not discriminatory or against any law that I know of to not allow golf carts. How many golf carts do you see at Disney or at amusement parks?

Any chance you could post a picture of the 1929-30 FRANKLIN MARMON TRUNK RACK ?

That's great AJ. A New England fall CARavan is on my bucket list for sure. Too bad it couldn't be a little later in the year when the autumn leaves are turning, but that would interfere with Hershey,

Definitely from a smaller make of car. I'd post this up in the AACA main forum & someone will know what it fits.

That's complete BS. Take a slightly damp sponge and wipe the dust off and send it back. You need to talk to the owner of the company.

Yes, there was no judging at all which was fine by me. They did have cars parked in classes so like cars were parked together. I had no problem with that. Yes, Jack's Rolls has a new owner. The person who bought it from his estate 10 or so years ago is too old to drive it now, so it got sold again. No matter who owns it, it will always be Jack's car.

More pics:

Was at a local show today and this showed up. A 1948 Davis. I had seen pictures of these before, but never seen one in person. I was surprised by how big it was.

Well, I went to the show today. Over 300 cars, but a little light on prewar stuff. Here are some highlights.

I've been to the show you're talking about the past 2 years, and this year am bringing a car for the first time (no, I won't get it judged, not that I'd win anything anyway). It's just down the road from where I live, so it's hard to pass up. I know it's a bit of a haul for you. I didn't know about the judging. I wonder if they got sponsors for the trophies because the website says 100% of the $20 entry fee goes to the kidney foundation to honor his father. If the show is anything like last year it should be pretty good. It's supposed to be only 75 degrees Sunday, which is a relief after the hot/humid summer we've had. I just ignore the trophy pass out at the end. I guarantee it's the muscle car/modified car crowd that pushed for trophies, not the pre war car owners.

Then the next year we added 50 feet to the attached garage on the house, about 1200 square feet. It has windows on the front to match the house. I put 2" thick insulation board on the ground before having the concrete floor poured. I want to heat this area someday, and this will help the floor not be so cold. Again, this is just a basic structure, no electricity or drywall yet. The rafters are 2 X 12s with a plywood floor nailed in so I can store stuff overhead. I have 6 cars stuffed in this right now.

Here's my detached garage. Built almost 9 years ago. It's 1500 square feet. 37.5 feet wide by 40 feet deep. I wanted to do 40 X 60 but the old ladies who live behind me complained so there was no way I'd get a variance (They still live there, so I won't go in to the details now. I will someday after they move away). Zoning allowed for 1500 square feet with no variance on a detached structure so I went with that. It's just the basic structure right now: no electricity, insulation or drywall yet. That will all be done down the road. No windows (security) and just one entrance door. I went with the 40 feet deep so I could put 2 full size cars end to end in it. The roof is engineered trusses, so there are no posts holding the roof up anywhere. I had 9 cars stuffed in it the first winter after it was built. .

Send them back & demand a refund.

This is for Restorer 32: You asked what is the difference between a concours paint job and a driver paint job. Here's my take: First of all, it's almost impossible to do a concours paint job without restoring most of the car. To obtain concours results, one would have to remove every piece of rubber weather stripping and every piece of trim before starting to remove the old paint off. In the case of the subject car, a 1969 Pontiac GTO, the front fenders and hood would have to be removed, as well as the doors and trunk lid. How do you paint the firewall without removing the engine? The trim around the windshield would have to be removed as well, and we know how hard that can be to do and keep straight. What about the tack strip for the top? See, you're basically disassembling the entire car. What about the door jambs where they meet the interior? For a concours job, one would have to remove the parts of the interior that butt up against the door jambs in order to sand and paint that area completely and not risk damaging the interior. The paint on the firewall and underneath the trunk lid would be as good as the exterior of the car. Then upon the painting process being complete, all the stainless would have to be buffed before reinstalling and all new rubber put on. Most chrome would have to be redone as well. Why have a new perfect paint job with only so-so chrome? That's how I view a concours paint job. (how many times have you seen a car with a gorgeous paint job & stainless trim that was dull or had major blemishes in it? Looks awful, doesn't it?) For a driver quality paint job one might still remove most of the trim, but maybe not the few pieces that can be difficult to remove, such as the stainless trim around the windshield. You'd still sand the car down to bare metal and properly fill in any dents or rust holes. Assuming the paint on the firewall, and under the hood and trunk lid are at least "presentable," those areas would not be re painted. You wouldn't repaint under the hood, not repaint the firewall, not repaint under the trunk lid. The doors would not be removed. The front fenders might be removed because, hey, show me a GM car from the 60's or 70's without major rust or repair work on the bottoms of the front fenders. The hood and trunk lid would be removed as it's only 4-6 bolts each, so why not? The door jambs may or may not be repainted. If they're clean, leave them alone. One would replace as little rubber as possible, only replacing what was severely deteriorated. One can carefully tape off the rubber with a decent result. (yes, we've all seen cars with a ridiculous amount of over spray on the rubber, but it can be taped off carefully if you try). Only trim that is severely deteriorated would be fixed/replaced. If it's 80-90% good, put it back on as is. With a paint job like this. the exterior paint on the car would look almost as good as the concours job, but it's all the little details (firewall, door jambs, under the trunk lid, not replacing all the rubber, not having perfect trim) that make the car appear a step below. I don't think the driver quality paint job I just detailed is necessarily half assed. It' s not like your slapping bondo on with a trowel, or have severe overspray. I think my driver quality paint job example is what the original poster in this thread wanted. It sounds like the shop he chose doesn't like to do jobs like that. In my opinion, this was a failure to communicate by both parties before the job started. If the shop doesn't want to do that type of paint job, then they should have politely passed on the job, and maybe refered the owner to another shop who does that type of work. And perhaps the owner of the car should have been more specific with the shop on "where to draw the line" on the details of the work. So in this situation, I put the blame at 50-50.

Here's a better photo.