buick5563

I think the last one I got from CARS came with a template. If not, I can make a template, also.

They are able to be installed without removing door panels, etc. they are screwed into the forward lip of the door skin (if that makes sense).

It never hurts to have a spare anything, Tommy.

I would pull the column, too.

Nice, TJ55

- Price -Strongly suggested. In other words, if you are lonely and are posting without a price just to get someone to email you with requests for information, low-ball offers, and angry demands for the price, then fine, skip the price. Otherwise put a real price on it and find a real buyer. * Well done sir.

Blown back apart as promised: Ordered a bunch of sandpaper and other paint prep stuff from our buddy Fred Z's TP Tools.

Another pic. This is the "moustache bar" to hood gap.

As most of you know, I started taking in other wayward old cars to fix, repair and restore. The real disadvantage of that is that there is no time or more importantly, real desire to work on my cars. Even on light customer days, I'd rather regrout my tub than getting all greasy on one of mine. So this project stalled for a while. I have just been remotivated to work on it. Think of it as a light switch that once again got turned up. Now the advantage of doing this for other people all day is that I am better and faster than I used to be. I removed and installed the hood three times in the last two days and am finally happy with the fit. Tomorrow if the weather holds I will begin blowing it apart for paint. Note to self. Order leather and send chrome away... Had to use a come along to pull the fender to where I wanted it: Final fit:

And FYI Mud.... I watched your steering gear rebuild as a guide to my own project. So many of these projects are wicked scary when you read how to do it in the shop manual, but after you see how it is done, it turns out to be easy.

Mmm. Rockabilly chicks.

The correct mirrors look like what are sold by CARS and Bob's. The problem with the ones you have are that you see the screws. They are hidden on the OEM versions. I don't have a pic right now.

There are so many websites that say "Mike Middleton likes pie", that you would spend longer than just using the forum search.

In DC: Two and a Q

When I was trying to post the extraordinarily important news that it is National Pie Day today, I noticed that if you use the search feature above and search "Spam Pie", it is on the second page. Um, what's up with that? I can't imagine ever trying to find something that said carburetor in it.

The car is not in my shop yet. I just wanted to get a starting point for checking after he called me the other day. Thanks everybody.

Wow.. Who knew?

Hi Pete, Yeah... It's expensive. Did you do all of the other "usual rebuild" items? Machining, bearings, etc? Even though it is suggested all over the interwebz to buy matched lifters and pushrods, if you reuse some parts, you should certainly at the very least check lengths of pushrods. I believe using the later model rocker arms is a fine alteration.

Really? Humph. I'll check that. Yeah, new regulator. Not sure about belt slippage. I put a ten foot breaker bar and tightened the belt until the pulley went sideways. (Kidding) The last generator actually had something cut loose from the front. Like, when I started it, some black stuff exploded out of the front. I'm wondering if he has mice building nests somewhere. I'll keep ya posted.

Hi guys. Over the last few years, a friend has been chasing an electrical gremlin on his 60 Electra. Two years ago, he replaced the generator and regulator. A few months ago, I had to go through this again, only this time replacing the battery, as well. The last generator rebuild was clearly crap, since there weren't many miles on the car since the prior rebuild. (New shop this time). Everything appeared to be working fine until yesterday his light came on again. I haven't checked it over yet, but do y'all have any suggestions as to why he would have this recurring charging issue? More details to come after I see the car Thanks

I have seen a few really nice model 48's go for under ten grand. Just restoring them costs a lot, let alone finding all of the neat period sirens, etc. I agree with Larry that $40k would get it done (if done yourself). I bet mine would have cost that much if I had to find all of the CHP stuff.

55's had a seat relay. Not sure if 56 is the same.