buick5563

Willie called me to see if I knew what to check. You guys are way better at diagnosing over the interwebz than I am, and this is my era. I would need to lay my hands on it.

Plus one.

...is it still a lion? I love the message behind this commercial: http://commercial-song.blogspot.com/2015/04/turtle-wax-ice-tv-ad-2015.html?m=1

I would be more concerned about the brakes if it has been sitting. My wife does the bookkeeping for my restoration business and while I was coming up with a bill earlier this morning, she asked me jokingly if I had a receipt for Inline Tube. She knows that the old metal lines go bad and I always end up replacing them during at least half of the brake jobs I do. I DID have a receipt for new brake lines, btw.

....and "smoke" coming out of the filler caps is normal. (To a certain extent)

That one has to be rebuilt (I think), because the power wire is on the fan side of the motor.

You don't need it. You can replace it with a 5/16" x 3/4" grade 8 bolt. Somebody is going to see this and offer one up. Take em uo on it, but it doesn't have to happen immediately. Oh, and tighten your lug bolts

Yes, and I would run it off of a switch that only works when the key is on.

I think officially it's 75 which is a lot looser than my three grunts.

Nice!

Sounds like maybe they weren't torqued after having the wheel off. Maybe?

I have seen this car, and it is a really nice turn key driver.

The first I remember hearing about not using gaskets was from Russ Martin's website. I have used gaskets and had no problems. The last engine I did I used only high temp silicone. The silicone (if used sparingly) looks better than the big gaskets. How is that for a non-answer?

I believe those are just bumpers to prevent harming the bottom channel. Lower your window to where it looks good and measure the distance. I honestly doubt that 3/8 vs 1/2" will make a difference.

I might have the pulleys if anybody can verify that a 401 engine is the same. I know these won't fit the baby Nailheads.

Are you sure, West?

D'oh!

Nope. They look cool on Model A's without fenders, though.

Smart.

Hey Will, I love that you are being persistent and continuing to ask questions. Even "basic" questions. It makes reading easier. It helps people who don't know everything, myself included. I have been frustrated more times than I care to remember. I just had to give up on a car that had problems that I just couldn't solve in a timely and cost effective manner. I agree that you should definitely only change one thing at a time. The real bummer comes in when you change two things with two new parts and a different problem occurs. Why? Because one of the new parts is bad right out of the box. That will make you say bad things. Sometimes loudly. You will get it, man. Keep at it.

Wait, is there humidity in Georgia?

I start at the back with a straightened line. Sounds like a similar body mount set up.

Check Willie's website for info on the rear main. There is also a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" for installing the upper seal if it can't be rigged by this method. There is good info on Nailheadbuick.com about installing them. Freeze plugs can be installed in the car. I can't imagine replacing the front driver's side without a lift, though. There are four. I like the brass version from Nailhead Buick. (Russ Martin)

I've always been happy with Inline. With that said, 55's have the long stretch like the early 50's cars do, AND without a lift AND a lot of room AND some molestation of the line, I don't think I could do it. I have done it numerous times successfully under my circumstances.