Smartin

Try shimming the upper right bolt (as you look at the trunk with it open). Put a shim in between the hinge and the trunk lid itself. This will allow the hinge to close deeper, pulling the corner down more.

Sorry Ted, didn't mean to hurt your car's feelings had my car been a Stage 1 with paint code 75, I would go with fire red.

I agree, John. Two things, though - my better half was not having any part of Seamist Green. The other thing is that Titian Red is a very rarely seen color on these cars. Fire Red, on the other hand, is grossly overdone.

Some additional shots...

I had a weak moment and bought this last week. Rust free from Oklahoma, and I purchased it from a Buick guy in NC. It was originally Seamist Green with green vinyl top and green interior. Yummy, right? The top was already off, and the interior was dyed black, with late model bucket seats installed. Someone before him had installed a 455 from a 72 Riv with a built TH350 transmission. The suspension is dropped 2" all around, and has big sway bars front and back. Boxed rear control arms. NICE bumpers. Most of the trim was included with the car, but I am sourcing some of the missing stuff now. I have procured a GS hood for it. First photo is the day it showed up, and the second photo is one week later. It will be Titian Red with a black vinyl top and black interior. It sure is nice working on a rust free car!

Are you referring to the large nut behind the brake pedal? I only ask, because I'm not sure if the manual brakes are set up the same way inside the car as one with a power booster. If so, then the nut is a real pain. I usually have a partner hold the nut with a pair of large channel locks or locking vice grips, and I spin the entire unit on the outside. Once loose, the nut should back off.

Wowza!

That was from my $800 parts car that I picked clean for the Limited...and it's still hanging on the wall

Agreed with the OBO...these cars could very well be "in the money" if you gave them the offer you think is correct. I see a couple 57 RM's on there....hmmmm

I think the rust is a big deterrent on this one.

This user has several project cars on eBay currently. All located in Mankato, MN. Check it out... http://www.ebay.com/sch/1983oldshurst/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

That would be a very expensive piece of art.

Sounds like the timing is retarded. Where is it set? 5 volts sounds about right. There is a ballast resistor on the firewall.

Ready to bolt in...need more time in the day!

I just banned him on v8buick

I got an email from him on v8buick.com yesterday... This is the message: I could check for available items if you send a quick list. E-mail me on gtom2902@gmail.com Thanks, Tom Green Davison, MI 48423

The inner part of the u-joint itself was about .080 too long in both directions (not including the caps). I milled off half that amount on each end, re-ground the grease journals, and assembled. It snapped in nicely after that. The guy who normally does my pressing told me it is possible that the knuckles were bent in a hair from getting the original joint pressed out. I don't think cast iron bends, but I'll pretend that's what happened.

4 u-joints later, I have one that fits. It took a minor adjustment, but I now have a complete assembly. It will probably go back together this weekend.

At least I "correctly" painted the pumpkin this time

The yoke is not machined for the outside snap rings. So it must have inside snap rings to be retained. The u joints that have been sold to me with inside snap rings are too big for the yoke by 1/16", but the one CARS sent me with outside snap rings is the correct diameter.

If I were completely going through and replacing everything on my brake system, I would consider DOT 5. I guess since I haven't had any issues with 3, I don't see a need to change.

FAIL. It's the same one that came from CARS. Sooooo, I hit up the ol' computer again. Found a Spicer 5-1203X that has the exact specs I am looking for, and is made for both outside and inside snap rings. Ordered, will be here Monday-ish.

U joint found! NAPA part number UJ 433 ...it will be here Wednesday.

So I ordered both types of U joints....both were wrong. Sometimes I don't even know why I try. So now I am on the hunt for a correct U joint...apparently this is a difficult item to find. I need one with an inside snap ring. Caps are 1.062" dia, and the measurement from snap ring to snap ring is 2.620". Project on hold for parts.

2 grand....mmm. Too bad about the rust issues.