Smartin

I sent a PM to Barney. I will see what his opinion is. I have two "waterproof" covers that are a year old, and both of them leak badly at the seams. I'm better off leaving it out in a monsoon. The trunk on this car leaks a bit, so I want to keep it dry as much as I can. I haven't had a chance to really see where it is coming from.

Since my car is going to sit in the driveway all Winter, I am looking for a quality waterproof cover for it. I bought a knock-off last year for the 60, and it did not keep water out. Recommendations are appreciated.

Yep, gotta go from both sides. The entire heater box needs to come out from the inside. That is where the core lives.

Greg, I think the "fin" of the 4 door is taller than the coupe and convertible. The lower part is the same though.

Nice wheel covers!

If it were easy IF IT WR EZ

Hmmm...it's impossible to diagnose something like this without an actual sound clip. It could be anything. Worst case is a spun bearing.

Installed beltline moldings on the 70 this week. What a difference they make! They really complete the window frames.

This entire thread is a good read regarding the subject of Buick underbits of this vintage...

The pump is packed with vaseline, but is not primed until it has oil going from the pan through the pickup tube, and into the pump. You'll probably be ok, but using a priming tool before you stab the distributor in is good insurance to verify oil pressure before spinning the entire rotating assembly. It could take 10, 20, 30 seconds before the pump primes on its own.

Will you prime the pump before you start cranking it? I always spin it just a touch by hand to make sure it's not in a bind, too.

Last time for the Fall...if it doesn't sell this time, I am going to drag it into the garage and blow it apart. Hopefully to be ready for the Spring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252589100077?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Relisted.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Electra-225-/252577427531?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3acec9b04b:g:XkkAAOSwYIxX8ZcT&item=252577427531

Ends tonight...if it doesn't sell, I will relist with Buy It Now OBO

Priorities, John

Forgot to post this last month...

Thanks, Tom.

I screwed up on the listing and said the car has a 364. It is actually the original 401.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252567301402?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Car ADD has kicked in once again..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252567278222?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Cowl vent cover? I searched all over the chassis manual to try locating a spot where they called it out.

One more wedding photo just for fun. I know there is at least one more coming once I get the whole set. It will be a smoke show

Since this car has a turbo, I would imagine he has custom headers. The TA graphite with steel core are about as good as they get. You absolutely need to retorque the header bolts as often as you can, until they stop needing to be tightened. As opposed to what many think, the bolts are not coming loose due to vibrations. The gaskets are compressing, causing the bolts to be loose. Retorque retorque retorque. I learned that the hard way (several times) on my convertible with headers. Once I went with the steel core TA gaskets, and checked torque on them religiously, I never had another gasket problem. I'm not a turbo guy, but the fact that the turbos are in the back of the car may be contributing to the slow spool. Think of the volume of air in those pipes that has to compress, compared to a turbo setup that is virtually mounted on the side of the engine. You're talking like 20x the volume.

Worn front end components could also contribute to a pull in one direction or the other during braking.