Matt Harwood

LOL, I already went out and looked at the ones on my car, which are actually in great condition. I still need the rocker panel moldings, but I've resigned myself to the fact that I'll need to splice together some pieces from a lesser series to do that. Fortunately, I have a pretty large cache of 1941 Buick stainless trim already on the shelf... Thanks for thinking of me!

1976 Cadillac Eldorado convertible that I'd been working on since I was 14. Truly massive, and the instructor asked if I was sure that was the vehicle I wanted to use. No problem... and no blind spots. Aced it on the first try.

Unlikely. If the chain broke, you'd know it because it would be catastrophic. GM engineers called the chain "unbreakable" and if you saw the thing, you'd understand. I think you have a different problem in the transmission, but it's probably not this. I've never heard of one breaking. If it is the problem, you might be able to change it without removing the whole transmission, but my advice would be to determine the actual problem, then start buying parts. I'll bet $10 that the chain is just fine.

Zing! I will be buying my sons memberships, making them third-generation members. They think it's cool to get stuff in the mail with their names on it, and they've already been to more car shows than I when I was their age. They've earned a spot on the roster.

Water Wetter merely reduces the surface tension of water, it doesn't really change the thermal transfer properties of the coolant. In essence, it's making the water conform to the rough inner surfaces of the water jackets, thereby increasing surface area for cooling and thermal transfer to the coolant. Its effects are small but noticeable in some cases. It is not a solution for overheating, but you might see a few degrees cooler running. Here's a little-known secret: a teaspoon of dish detergent will do the same thing.

Available: 20,000 original miles. California car. I can count the number of replacement parts on one hand. There are brand new wheels and tires on it now, but I have the original wheels AND TIRES to go with it. Replacement top sometime in the 1980s. Heritage Certificate documented. Probably the finest unrestored E-Type in the world. Note: I am a retail dealer. The car is listed at $109,900. Make me an offer.

I just want to go on record saying I love this car. I had a 1932 Buick 90 Series two years ago and enjoyed driving it more than almost anything else I've ever had. It was just the right balance of power, competence, and old-car "feel." This is a car I would keep for myself.

Welcome to the great world of selling old cars. 99% of interested parties are browsers, not buyers. They'll waste your time, they'll make appointments they have no intention of keeping, and even though you think something is priced reasonably, you will get no buyers. I deal with all of that every single day. And I will say that if this is your only advertising venue for this car, it will probably not sell. You'll get views, but most of the viewers are not actively looking for such a car, they're merely curious and interested enthusiasts. I've been admiring the car and I think the price is within the realm of reasonable. PM me if you'd like more information.

POR-15 needs a rough surface to grab on to. As long as there's some "tooth" to the metal, it'll stick forever. Smooth, finished surfaces, not so much. It forms a strong film but doesn't have much cling strength (it's more like liquid plastic than sticky paint). For sealing the can, I always put a layer of Saran-Wrap or similar between the can and the lid, then stored it upside-down. No problems opening it and the air is trapped at the bottom so the stuff on top when you open it is still good.

*SOLD* I didn't expect this one would last long.

*SOLD* Before I go any farther here, I'm going to let you skip ahead and check the price. Go ahead, I'll wait... Back? OK, so now you know this isn't a trailer queen. This '68 Corvette isn't even the kind of car I prefer to represent, because it needs some TLC, maybe quite a bit. It's a study in contrasts, but I have to admit that the more time I spend with it, the more I like it. First, the big stuff: matching-numbers L36 427/390, factory 4-speed, factory Rally Red convertible, two tops, and holy cow, does it run! It gets all the big stuff right, and that's why I agreed to put it in my showroom. It was owned by a gentleman in PA who sadly passed away a few years ago, leaving his beloved red Corvette to his young daughter. Daughter and widow dutifully kept the car until the daughter was 18 and she could decide what to do with it. Ultimately, she decided that someone else should care for her father's Corvette because it wasn't a car that she could drive, both because of its condition (running rough and no brakes) and because it's a manual steering and manual brakes car, so it's pretty manly. Thus it came to us. We spent a lot of time and effort getting this roadster back into shape. We started by installing a new master cylinder and front calipers, so it stops well now. Once we were able to drive it, we spent some time tuning it up, and while at first it was grumpy and down on power, today all 390 horses show up ready to party. And partying is all this Corvette wants to do. I've taken it on a few test drives and I've never driven another car that begs to be bad as much as this one does. The L36 is pretty docile with a hydraulic cam, so it idles well and doesn't get fussy, but when you lean on it, you can hear that giant carburetor sucking in cubic yards of air. If you push through the hitch in the accelerator that tells you you're cracking the secondaries open, well, you'd better be sure it's aimed where you want it to go, because it takes off like it's been launched from the deck of the USS Nimitz. At that point, the nose goes up, the noise from behind turns into a baritone howl, and the tires scramble for traction. Yeah, I totally understand why guys love big block 'Vettes. The faster and harder you drive it, the better it works and the hardware feels virtually indestructible. I haven't abused it, but it feels like it'll take anything I dish out and hand me back an empty plate asking for seconds. The fiberglass is in good condition but the repaint is only fair and it's got some age on it. We spent a lot of time cleaning and detailing the car after its long slumber, and the results are pretty good, certainly presentable, but it's not a show car. The chrome is all original and most of it is either pitted or just worn, so plan on starting there. The weather-stripping is also pretty much shot, so you'll need to replace most of that to get it really tight, but I'll admit that there are almost no squeaks and rattles and the superstructure feels quite robust, rare for an open 'Vette, particularly one from initial C3 year 1968. None of the vacuum stuff works, no headlights and no wiper door at the base of the windshield, so that should be on your list of things to address, too. The interior is decent, and I bet the seat covers are original. There's a rip that was repaired decades ago but otherwise they're presentable and the foam underneath isn't totally crushed, so there's no need to replace anything immediately. The carpets are undoubtedly replacements and in good shape, and the door panels are decent, too. The gauges are haphazard: tach works, speedo doesn't and looks like someone painted the numbers with White-Out. Oil pressure gauge works, fuel gauge works if only to tell you when it's empty, and the temperature gauge has about a 10-degree sweep between ice cold and operating temperature, which might just be a sending unit thing. Shockingly, the clock works and every time I walk past this car in the shop, I hear it reliably ticking away. There's a later AM/FM/cassette stereo that uses a speaker box in the rear deck and it sounds decent, but you won't care after you hear the engine. And the top is fairly recent and looks pretty good with a clear rear window. It also includes a factory removable hardtop that's in OK condition but will need to be restored if you want to use it regularly. No idea if the engine has been rebuilt, but I have personally verified that it's the original, numbers-matching L36 427/390. It doesn't look to have been modified beyond the addition of an HEI distributor. Carburetor is a big Rochester, not an aftermarket Edelbrock, the intake is stock, the cast iron manifolds are stock, and there's plenty of evidence of proper maintenance over the years. We did the usual stuff like plugs, wires, fluids, etc., but to be honest, the thing that did it the most good was simply getting it back on the road and putting some miles under the tires. The clutch is robust and doesn't chatter and it feels like it has tall highway gears in it, because it'll cruise along at 40 MPH in 2nd gear and with plenty of room left on the tach. Suspension is reasonably comfortable despite the Corvette's reputation for a buckboard ride and the brakes have been serviced. The Rally wheels aren't original, since they're staggered 7s and 8s, and they wear BFGoodrich radials with lots of life left in them. The chassis is crusty and grimy, but I don't see any major issues that should scare anyone away from using it as intended. Yes, this is a project, but it's not a basket case. I would make the argument for a rolling restoration, because the car can be enjoyed right now and you'll have a few easy weekend projects and a few bigger jobs to tackle over the winter. But the DNA is strong because it's a matching-numbers 427 Corvette convertible in bright red with two tops and a 4-speed, and that, my friends, is the good stuff. And at only $24,900, you get an A-list piece of fantastic plastic with plenty of upside to pay for your sweat equity. Thanks for looking!

When you look back at automotive history, there are a handful of guys who pretty much guided the whole thing, and George Barris was one of them. There are few custom-built cars that don't have a few tricks that he invented on them and while he often had questionable taste, it was all about pushing boundaries and few were better at figuring out "the next big thing" than George Barris. His reputation was well-deserved and his talents will probably not be seen again. He was also a fine ambassador for the hobby, always ready with a smile and a handshake, and never grew tired of talking to fans and enthusiasts. Best to his family and his many friends, I know he will be missed.

SOLD! Thank you!

SOLD! Thank you!

Here's what chrome powdercoating looks like: I actually used it as a base and then topped it with a satin powder to try to get a silver cadmium plated look on my brake backing plates, and for that it worked quite well. It does not, however, look anything remotely like chrome.

Nicest one I've ever had or seen. The fellow for whom I sold it a few years ago wishes he had it back. It's about as nice a Rivieras get. Pat, if you did the restoration work on that car, it's really first-rate. Someone's going to get an awesome car!

Man, that's a lot of work. But...why? Is this a FoMoCo mock-up or something?

SOLD! Thank you! Another one that I knew wouldn't last very long...

+1. Whatever color it was originally, it has faded and weathered. Getting a computer match and having them mix up a pint will give you far better results than something you buy over the internet that's "supposed" to be the right color. It'll be $50 well spent.

I will say that the time between Thanksgiving and New Year's day is by far our busiest time of year. Why, I can't say, but one year is a fluke, two years is a coincidence, but five or six years in a row? That's a trend. July-August-September is by far the worst time to sell, everything is flat. We had a good October, but most of it was in the last 10 days. Things pick up again in March. However, there's no hard and fast rule, and I disagree that cars are worth more in the spring than in the fall. Some locations allow people to enjoy their cars year-round, and the time of year makes no difference to them. Some buyers are international and they don't care either. The car is worth what it's worth; don't think you can charge a premium because you have a convertible and it's the first sunny day of spring. Venues? Hemmings is still the best, but you can't beat eBay for the number of eyeballs that will see your car. If you can weather the unending barrage of experts nit-picking your car and telling you that your price is crazy, maybe you can make a deal there. We don't expect to sell cars there (although I sold one with Buy It Now just yesterday) but if a bidder gets close enough, we'll open a dialogue and try to close the deal and that happens frequently. This forum doesn't sell many cars, I'm afraid, unless it's deeply discounted relative to the market. Very few retail buyers here, sadly. Craigslist? Don't. Just don't. And if I may toot my own horn, I've sold more than 110 cars in the last 13 months. If you want your car to simply disappear and you cash a check a few weeks later, I can probably make that happen, too.

SOLD! Thank you!

That looks like a Super to me, but hey, what do I know?

That's pretty much what I used on the Cadillac. Pretty big but easy enough to stash on an old car.

Love the blackwall tires. I'm sorely tempted to paint mine all black and go with blackwall tires for a brutal look. I'd love to see the interior, especially what the rear area looks like, since mine is a 66S with a full rear seat. The Business Coupe is considerably more rare. Have fun!

*SOLD* This is the second one of these I've had in as many months and I can guarantee you that I've had a crash course in W113 tech. Popularity and prices on these cars are skyrocketing and since the moment that red one hit the internet about a month ago, I've probably had more than 100 phone calls on it. When this equally tidy and mostly original Dark Green one floated past, well, I grabbed it. It's a 2-owner car, with the second owner buying it sometime in the late 1970s and keeping it for almost four decades. His daughter used it in high school in the 1980s and his wife used it until about ten years ago when she fell ill. It has been sitting since then. Perhaps the coolest thing about this little roadster, other than its very clean bodywork and awesome color combination, is the thick paper trail that comes with it: original window sticker, original bill of sale, service receipts from Day One, books and manuals, and even the data cards from Daimler AG. You want a pedigree? This car really delivers. There are probably 280SL experts out there who will E-mail me moments after I hit "POST" on this message telling me that Dark Green was not available in 1970. Well, guess again, because both the body tag and the data cards confirm this car is wearing code 268 Dark Green paint and that it is, indeed, a 1970 model built in May of 1970. It appears to have been repainted once, but I haven't been able to discern how long ago--probably in the 1980s. The color match is right on and despite sitting in a garage for a decade, we were able to really bring up a good shine on the finish, so the quality was decent. I see no evidence of accident damage and only one area where maybe they smoothed out some door dings, so the car is very straight. It is also commendably clean, with none of the rust issues that plague these cars, even in the usual areas under the rear bumper and in the rocker panels. Door fit is excellent with the typical Mercedes precision feel and the chrome is probably original, so it's OK but not show quality. We left all the parking and permit stickers on the car, which illustrate its history as a car used to commute to a military base in Virginia and later to a military hospital. The Cognac interior is just lovely against the green paint. It's unquestionably original and a bit tired, but again, it cleaned up really well. That's probably due to the high quality materials Mercedes used on these cars. The seat covers are in good shape and are totally serviceable with no rips or tears, but the stuffing underneath is a bit broken down and lumpy, so you might do well to have the guts replaced. Carpets are surprisingly good and the door panels, aside from the map pockets, are pretty nice, too. The wood strip at the base of the windshield is dried and cracked, however, and that's not a surprise since it got baked in the sun, and the hard rubber sliders for the heater controls are gone, which is typical and expected. The Becker Europa AM/FM radio was an extra-cost option and still works just fine and all the lovely VDO gauges are fully operational, too. In fact, aside from a few burned out light bulbs that we may try to replace, everything works. The tan canvas top is shot, with a quarter-sized hole on the passenger's side and a cloudy rear window, but they're not expensive and the car includes a matching hardtop that's in excellent condition. The trunk is neat and clean, with the usual surface rust under the rubber mat, which is due to moisture being unable to evaporate rather than elemental damage from below. I strongly suspect the 2.8 liter inline-six has been rebuilt and I'm going to spend some additional time going through the receipts to see if there's information on it. I believe this because there's a box in the trunk full of Mercedes-Benz pistons and other parts, as well as because of how well this little guy runs. After all that time in storage, we did the usual service items to bring it out of hibernation and it fires right up without complaint and idles well after the first 10-15 seconds, when it's a little grumpy. It's got an awesome tenor exhaust note that turns snarky as revs build (I believe it's a "SuperSprint" exhaust system, for which there's a receipt). The 4-speed automatic transmission shifts crisply, although the bushings on the lever are a little mushy and you have to feel around for the right slot. The suspension is tight, although the shocks are tired, and the brakes are confident. It's also got brand new whitewall radials on the original steel wheels with color-matched hubcaps. The important stuff is right on this car. The hood has the right number stamped on the lip, the tubs behind the seats are super solid and rust free, and the paperwork is impressive. There was a car not much nicer than this at Hershey for $69,900 and a spectacular dark green one that looked like a fresh restoration for $130,000. We've got this one priced at $49,900 for a quick sale (if a $50,000 car can be considered a bargain, this is it), and we're always open to reasonable offers. It needs some TLC, but it's also priced like a car that needs TLC. Go ahead, check the price guides, I'll wait... Thanks for looking!