Matt Harwood

Does it matter? The value difference between a Tempest and a Lemans is negligible and if you're buying one of these for its pedigree, you're making a mistake. Nobody's faking a Lemans. If they were going to spend the time to build a fake, that car would be wearing GTO badges instead. No, it's a lightly modified car built to someone's taste. If that taste matches yours, well, maybe it's a good buy because he surely spent more to build it than you will to buy it. As far as "at that price, I expect it to be correct," well, that's kind of a matter of taste, not a reasonable expectation. Surely you've noticed modified cars selling for more than perfectly restored, 100-point concours correct examples, no? This is no different. In fact, I'd say that the modifications are WHY it's priced like it is. If it were a stock Lemans, it would be a $30,000 car. The added value comes from the modifications. As an example, I just sold this 1965 Tempest for twice "book value:" It was originally a six-cylinder/PowerGlide, now has a 1969 400 cubic inch V8 and TH400 transmission. The suspension is upgraded with rack-and-pinion power steering, it's got disc brakes, cool 17-inch Rallye II replicas, and there are new gauges inside. It's extremely clean and quite handsome, in my opinion. As a six-cylinder, it was never abused so it's super tight and clean. Book value (whatever that means) puts it somewhere around $13,000 in #1 condition, and it comes with receipts adding up to somewhere north of $35,000 not including the purchase of the car. I sold it for more than twice book value, and I still think it's a great value. It's not "correct," it's not "matching numbers," but I'd argue it's a better, more appealing car now than when it was "right." Purists won't agree, but this is undisputedly a better car now than when it was in original spec. I had several potential buyers hunting it, so I know it was priced right even at twice book value. If you follow some of the logic here, you'd think that there should have been zero buyers because it wasn't factory correct and in 100-point condition and the price was crazy. The guy who bought it is tickled with it, that's all that matters. Now, as to whether the modifications on this particular convertible are to your liking, that's a different story and a question only you can answer. If you like the way the car looks and the price is something you can afford and you see the value in it, then buy it and start having fun. But all this agonizing about pedigrees and paperwork and authenticity and book values is what is driving all the fun out of the hobby, not the dealers that everyone loves to hate and point to as the problem. As you've so perfectly demonstrated here, even non-pedigreed, low-value cars have buyers who expect some kind of impossible standard of authenticity because they think of the car as an "investment" instead of merely fun, and worry about "the next guy." That's like building a beautiful new custom house but painting everything beige so when you sell it in 10 or 20 years, the next buyers won't object. You hamstring your own enjoyment so that some unknown stranger at some unknown point in the future possibly won't complain about it. Doesn't that seem kind of ridiculous? Forget pedigrees and how "right" this car is. If you like it and your budget allows for it, buy it and have fun and forget this nonsense about making sure it's 100% accurate. If not, move on to something else that is more accurate if that's what you're looking for. Basing that expectation exclusively on price is a mistake and arguing semantics about what "restored" means is just that: semantics. Everyone in this hobby wastes so much time on chasing perfection and authenticity that they sit on the sidelines for years waiting for the ideal combination of perfect, correct, and cheap to just fall in their lap. Meanwhile, they're getting older. Money is easy to get. Time is impossible. Get in and have fun, stop fussing over semantics on non-investment-grade cars. Just my $0.02.

*SOLD* I suddenly find myself awash in second-generation Corvettes and I seem to have all flavors: low-mileage original, nicely optioned cruiser with an automatic transmission, killer resto-mod with modern fuel-injected horsepower, and now this handsome triple-black 1965 convertible with a high-revving L79 and a set of rumbling side pipes. The important thing to know on this Corvette, as with most of its sibilings, is that it's a real L79 car with a date-code-correct HV-stamped block, but it is not numbers-matching. However, that's also why it's not $80,000. Triple black is its original color combination and as far as I can tell, those are factory-issue side pipes, a feature which debuted in 1965 and makes one heck of a difference in the car's on-road entertainment value. The Tuxedo Black finish is in excellent condition, not quite show quality, but not far off, either. It's not one of those imperfectly perfect Corvettes for NCRS judging or anything like that, but it's a very high-grade driver with good factory-style gaps and fiberglass with no stress cracks or signs of previous damage. It does wear a big block hood, which I'd argue is the best-looking of all C2 hood choices, and it probably should have been standard equipment. Nice chrome bumpers, crisp emblems, and folding headlights that work properly are all among this car's virtues. The black vinyl interior was listed as "STD" or "standard" on the trim tag, but the way it looks, that's kind of a misnomer. It's vinyl but it's a high-grade material that feels luxurious, not sticky, and the simple seats are comfortable as well as stylish. Most of the soft parts inside are recent and in very good condition and the seats remain firm and supportive for long trips. I've always liked the big, round dials that the Corvette offers, and this one carries a correct L79 tach with a 6500 RPM redline. The voltmeter and temperature gauge aren't working and the aftermarket AM/FM/cassette radio is offline, but the clock keeps time and the wood-rimmed steering wheel is in excellent condition. You'll note there's a power antenna on the options list and the black convertible top folds easier than expected and feels pretty limber. As I mentioned, the engine is a date-code-correct 327 cubic inch V8 with 350 horsepower. It was rebuilt 500 miles ago and runs superbly once it's warmed up. Like most high-performance engines, it's a bit cranky when it's cold, but you can blame that on the relatively large 650 CFM Holley that was standard equipment on the deep-breathing L79. Contrary to popular belief, the L79 uses a hydraulic cam, not a solid lifter setup, so it's very user-friendly and doesn't foul plugs, but also zings to redline without feeling strained. The torque curve is robust and I'd argue that a big block 396/425 horsepower car isn't notably faster and certainly not when the road starts to twist and turn. The engine bay is nicely detailed with a correct open-element air cleaner, new Chevy Orange paint on the block, and finned Corvette valve covers for a period performance look. 1965 was also the first year for 4-wheel disc brakes, so the car feels confident out on the road and with the lightweight small block, you probably won't even miss the power assist. It's clean underneath, not spotless, but nice enough that you won't worry about hidden dangers and the brakes have been recently rebuilt with new calipers. Knock-off wheels were an expensive option in 1965, and I'm betting these are repros, but they sure look great and are wrapped in brand new 15-inch whitewall radials, and whitewalls are how it was originally delivered. If I were going to own a Corvette, it might be one very much like this. Plenty of power but easy to live with, nicely optioned but not fussy, and a great color combination. We're asking $59,900, the same as all the other mid-year Corvettes in inventory, so all you need to do is pick the color and horsepower that you prefer and come take it home. Thanks for looking!

If the '40 Cadillac transmission is anything like the transmission in my '41 Buick, there are roller bearings inside that are just loose and orbiting around the shaft, not retained by a cage. They need to be installed just so (I used heavy grease to hold them in place while I inserted the shaft) but I can see how it would be easy to not put them all in because it seems like they won't all fit. If I didn't know exactly how many bearings came out, I would have skipped one because at first glance, there was just no way that last one would or could fit. Of course, you need to know how to do it, but I can certainly see something like that causing a rumbling noise. It seems that all your mechanic did was seals, but if he did the front and rear seals, he might have pulled the main shaft or at least the retaining ring, and the bearings could spill out. Not saying he did anything of the sort, but I can see how it would happen. Could be time for a second opinion?

Ah, I found the answer! Electric Curtain Control was for the rear window shade. It appears that none were ever installed even though it's listed on the build sheet (which was obviously printed before the cars were built). Here's a note I found in a GM Heritage Center document: It is unclear that any production cars were actually equipped with the electric rear curtain control. Many early build sheets indicate "Curtain Control." The build sheets, however, were typed before the car was assembled. The production "checkers" made hand-written notes and check marks on the sheets and entered component serial numbers by hand. Most are hand annotated "B.O." (back ordered). After serial number 2000766 the sheets indicate "Cancelled." The archive copy of the Dealers Accessory Price List issued December 15, 1932 is annotated "Discontinued." It looks like the build sheet for this car has the "B.O." annotation next to the line item. Now that I'm looking at it, I also see that it was slated to have Goodyear tires, but on the assembly line they were replaced with Royals. According to the documents I reviewed for the Curtain Control, it says that the Goodyears were blackwalls but the Royals were whitewalls. Another cool little window into the production line process. So now we know!

I was wondering about that myself. I suspect it's the chrome box on the firewall that's related to the radio, perhaps a static control. According to the tag on the front, it's called the Cadillac Elkon "B" Eliminator. Other than that, however, I'm exactly sure... I should also include a profile shot, since I think the club sedans are the prettiest of all 4-doors. This one, on a 140-inch wheelbase, has fantastic proportions. The smaller 134-inch cars look a little squashed to my eye.

*SOLD* Exquisite. There's no other word to describe this elegant and sophisticated Cadillac Town Sedan. Although it's only four years newer than my 1929 Cadillac and uses essentially the same engine, it feels like a totally different car; such is the product of the unprecedented improvements that all cars received in the early 1930s. The silky smooth yet firm feeling of everything this Cadillac does is incredibly appealing. Even more remarkable is that it is an older restoration dating back to perhaps the 1980s and the interior is almost entirely original. Better still, it's a CCCA Senior winner, a CLC Senior winner, and has been displayed twice at Pebble Beach, taking third in its class each time (yeah, third place isn't a big deal--except it's friggin' PEBBLE BEACH). According to the build sheet that accompanies the car, it's refinished in a pretty close approximation of its original Rhapsody Green with Billiard Green wheels and pinstripes. We gave it a quick polish, but it needed nothing else to look this spectacular and I assure you that it's every bit this nice in person. If the restoration is 30 years old, it's simply remarkable that it still looks this good. The finish is deep and lustrous and there's perhaps on tiny half-inch crack in the finish on one of the fenders, but I'll bet you can't find it even if the car was right in front of you. The chrome has been refinished more recently, since we have a pretty detailed maintenance record, so it's all excellent. The grille is probably original and I'm pretty sure it was a satin finish, not brightly chromed, so it's a little mottled today but certainly not in need of refinishing--this car's just so nice, I gotta pick a nit somewhere. It also carries a correct gold-plated goddess hood ornament and grille emblem, both of which were specified when it was new (they were typically reserved for the V16 cars). As I mentioned, the interior is almost entirely original. The last owner informs me that some areas were replaced, but he can't point out which ones and the matching is dead-on. The carpets are newer, but the headliner, the sun visors, the door panels, and the back seat side panels are unquestionably original. Detailing is simply gorgeous, particularly the woodwork around the window frames and on the dashboard, and yes, that's real wood, not a painted facsimile. How it survived intact and undamaged all these years, I can't imagine. The gauges are beautifully ornate round dials ahead of the driver and they all work, including the small gauge to the left of the steering wheel that indicates the suspension's firmness setting. You'll also note a factory-installed AM radio with speaker and noise suppressor under the hood. I haven't tried it and I don't know if I'm going to, but all the parts are there and given the quality of the rest of the car, I wouldn't be surprised to find it fully operational. There are switches for the Pilot Rays and an electric fuel pump discreetly hidden under the dash and an accessory heater (fully operational) has been tucked under the dash, a 2007 addition noted in the service records. The Town Sedan body style also includes an integral trunk plus a trunk rack, so it's ideally suited to long-distance touring in comfort. Cadillac's flathead V8 measured 353 cubic inches (not 355 as the nomenclature would suggest) and put out 115 horsepower in 1933. It feels like more and it's unbelievably silky. The one in my car is smooth but this one is other-worldly. It's not totally vibration-free, but what you do feel feels expensive. The engine is wonderfully detailed in black porcelain, including the heads and manifolds, and that pipe coming out the top is actually the exhaust pipe running up and over the carburetor. A few chrome pieces, some aluminum castings, and lots of stainless, chrome, and copper fittings make it look machine-like but beautiful, ostensibly to match the works of art that were the Cadillac V12 and V16 engines. Cadillac invented Synchromesh, so it is of course included on the 3-speed manual transmission, which shifts effortlessly. It was originally equipped with 4.75 gears according to the build sheet, but in 2007 it was outfitted with a set of 3.90 gears which really make a difference. It's a little lethargic off the line and you need to work the clutch a bit, but it's comfortable at 55 MPH and beyond. Brakes are mechanical but powerful and the suspension is supple and sophisticated where mine feels like a heavy-duty truck. There's just the right whisper of V8 burble from the tailpipe, but at idle, you may not even notice it's running. I'm very impressed with this car. In only four years, they exponentially improved every aspect of the motorcar and I've long maintained that the 1932-1935 period is the sweet spot where the cars still feel like old cars but have sophistication and performance to make them a joy to drive even today. This one is nicely documented, beautifully preserved, and ready to show or tour. I'll vouch for the V8's bulletproof reliability, too. We're asking $79,900 and while some may scoff that it's not a V12, please come see and drive it before you decide. Besides, if this were a Packard or even a 90-Series Buick club sedan, that price would be a bargain. Thank you for looking!

*SOLD* Exquisite. There's no other word to describe this elegant and sophisticated Cadillac Town Sedan. Although it's only four years newer than my 1929 Cadillac and uses essentially the same engine, it feels like a totally different car; such is the product of the unprecedented improvements that all cars received in the early 1930s. The silky smooth yet firm feeling of everything this Cadillac does is incredibly appealing. Even more remarkable is that it is an older restoration dating back to perhaps the 1980s and the interior is almost entirely original. Better still, it's a CCCA Senior winner, a CLC Senior winner, and has been displayed twice at Pebble Beach, taking third in its class each time (yeah, third place isn't a big deal--except it's friggin' PEBBLE BEACH). According to the build sheet that accompanies the car, it's refinished in a pretty close approximation of its original Rhapsody Green with Billiard Green wheels and pinstripes. We gave it a quick polish, but it needed nothing else to look this spectacular and I assure you that it's every but this nice in person. If the restoration is 30 years old, it's simply remarkable that it still looks this good. The finish is deep and lustrous and there's perhaps on tiny half-inch crack in the finish on one of the fenders, but I'll bet you can't find it even if the car was right in front of you. The chrome has been refinished more recently, since we have a pretty detailed maintenance record, so it's all excellent. The grille is probably original and I'm pretty sure it was a satin finish, not brightly chromed, so it's a little mottled today but certainly not in need of refinishing--this car's just so nice, I gotta pick a nit somewhere. It also carries a correct gold-plated goddess hood ornament and grille emblem, both of which were specified when it was new (they were typically reserved for the V16 cars). As I mentioned, the interior is almost entirely original. The last owner informs me that some areas were replaced, but he can't point out which ones and the matching is dead-on. The carpets are newer, but the headliner, the sun visors, the door panels, and the back seat side panels are unquestionably original. Detailing is simply gorgeous, particularly the woodwork around the window frames and on the dashboard, and yes, that's real wood, not a painted facsimile. How it survived intact and undamaged all these years, I can't imagine. The gauges are beautifully ornate round dials ahead of the driver and they all work, including the small gauge to the left of the steering wheel that indicates the suspension's firmness setting. You'll also note a factory-installed AM radio with speaker and noise suppressor under the hood. I haven't tried it and I don't know if I'm going to, but all the parts are there and given the quality of the rest of the car, I wouldn't be surprised to find it fully operational. There are switches for the Pilot Rays and an electric fuel pump discreetly hidden under the dash and an accessory heater (fully operational) has been tucked under the dash, a 2007 addition noted in the service records. The Town Sedan body style also includes an integral trunk plus a trunk rack, so it's ideally suited to long-distance touring in comfort. Cadillac's flathead V8 measured 353 cubic inches (not 355 as the nomenclature would suggest) and put out 115 horsepower in 1933. It feels like more and it's unbelievably silky. The one in my car is smooth but this one is other-worldly. It's not totally vibration-free, but what you do feel feels expensive. The engine is wonderfully detailed in black porcelain, including the heads and manifolds, and that pipe coming out the top is actually the exhaust pipe running up and over the carburetor. A few chrome pieces, some aluminum castings, and lots of stainless, chrome, and copper fittings make it look machine-like but beautiful, ostensibly to match the works of art that were the Cadillac V12 and V16 engines. Cadillac invented Synchromesh, so it is of course included on the 3-speed manual transmission, which shifts effortlessly. It was originally equipped with 4.75 gears according to the build sheet, but in 2007 it was outfitted with a set of 3.90 gears which really make a difference. It's a little lethargic off the line and you need to work the clutch a bit, but it's comfortable at 55 MPH and beyond. Brakes are mechanical but powerful and the suspension is supple and sophisticated where mine feels like a heavy-duty truck. There's just the right whisper of V8 burble from the tailpipe, but at idle, you may not even notice it's running. I'm very impressed with this car. In only four years, they exponentially improved every aspect of the motorcar and I've long maintained that the 1932-1935 period is the sweet spot where the cars still feel like old cars but have sophistication and performance to make them a joy to drive even today. This one is nicely documented, beautifully preserved, and ready to show or tour. I'll vouch for the V8's bulletproof reliability, too. We're asking $79,900 and while some may scoff that it's not a V12, please come see and drive it before you decide. Besides, if this were a Packard or even a 90-Series Buick club sedan, that price would be a bargain. Thank you for looking!

*SOLD* Exquisite. There's no other word to describe this elegant and sophisticated Cadillac Town Sedan. Although it's only four years newer than my 1929 Cadillac and uses essentially the same engine, it feels like a totally different car; such is the product of the unprecedented improvements that all cars received in the early 1930s. The silky smooth yet firm feeling of everything this Cadillac does is incredibly appealing. Even more remarkable is that it is an older restoration dating back to perhaps the 1980s and the interior is almost entirely original. Better still, it's a CCCA Senior winner, a CLC Senior winner, and has been displayed twice at Pebble Beach, taking third in its class each time (yeah, third place isn't a big deal--except it's friggin' PEBBLE BEACH). According to the build sheet that accompanies the car, it's refinished in a pretty close approximation of its original Rhapsody Green with Billiard Green wheels and pinstripes. We gave it a quick polish, but it needed nothing else to look this spectacular and I assure you that it's every bit this nice in person. If the restoration is 30 years old, it's simply remarkable that it still looks this good. The finish is deep and lustrous and there's perhaps on tiny half-inch crack in the finish on one of the fenders, but I'll bet you can't find it even if the car was right in front of you. The chrome has been refinished more recently, since we have a pretty detailed maintenance record, so it's all excellent. The grille is probably original and I'm pretty sure it was a satin finish, not brightly chromed, so it's a little mottled today but certainly not in need of refinishing--this car's just so nice, I gotta pick a nit somewhere. It also carries a correct gold-plated goddess hood ornament and grille emblem, both of which were specified when it was new (they were typically reserved for the V16 cars). As I mentioned, the interior is almost entirely original. The last owner informs me that some areas were replaced, but he can't point out which ones and the matching is dead-on. The carpets are newer, but the headliner, the sun visors, the door panels, and the back seat side panels are unquestionably original. Detailing is simply gorgeous, particularly the woodwork around the window frames and on the dashboard, and yes, that's real wood, not a painted facsimile. How it survived intact and undamaged all these years, I can't imagine. The gauges are beautifully ornate round dials ahead of the driver and they all work, including the small gauge to the left of the steering wheel that indicates the suspension's firmness setting. You'll also note a factory-installed AM radio with speaker and noise suppressor under the hood. I haven't tried it and I don't know if I'm going to, but all the parts are there and given the quality of the rest of the car, I wouldn't be surprised to find it fully operational. There are switches for the Pilot Rays and an electric fuel pump discreetly hidden under the dash and an accessory heater (fully operational) has been tucked under the dash, a 2007 addition noted in the service records. The Town Sedan body style also includes an integral trunk plus a trunk rack, so it's ideally suited to long-distance touring in comfort. Cadillac's flathead V8 measured 353 cubic inches (not 355 as the nomenclature would suggest) and put out 115 horsepower in 1933. It feels like more and it's unbelievably silky. The one in my car is smooth but this one is other-worldly. It's not totally vibration-free, but what you do feel feels expensive. The engine is wonderfully detailed in black porcelain, including the heads and manifolds, and that pipe coming out the top is actually the exhaust pipe running up and over the carburetor. A few chrome pieces, some aluminum castings, and lots of stainless, chrome, and copper fittings make it look machine-like but beautiful, ostensibly to match the works of art that were the Cadillac V12 and V16 engines. Cadillac invented Synchromesh, so it is of course included on the 3-speed manual transmission, which shifts effortlessly. It was originally equipped with 4.75 gears according to the build sheet, but in 2007 it was outfitted with a set of 3.90 gears which really make a difference. It's a little lethargic off the line and you need to work the clutch a bit, but it's comfortable at 55 MPH and beyond. Brakes are mechanical but powerful and the suspension is supple and sophisticated where mine feels like a heavy-duty truck. There's just the right whisper of V8 burble from the tailpipe, but at idle, you may not even notice it's running. I'm very impressed with this car. In only four years, they exponentially improved every aspect of the motorcar and I've long maintained that the 1932-1935 period is the sweet spot where the cars still feel like old cars but have sophistication and performance to make them a joy to drive even today. This one is nicely documented, beautifully preserved, and ready to show or tour. I'll vouch for the V8's bulletproof reliability, too. We're asking $79,900 and while some may scoff that it's not a V12, please come see and drive it before you decide. Besides, if this were a Packard or even a 90-Series Buick club sedan, that price would be a bargain. Thank you for looking!

It's a 248 cubic inch engine, not a 320.

I have a 3/4 race camshaft, 7.2:1 compression, and a few other tricks in my '41 Century's 320 engine. Doing anything more radical isn't productive simply because of the intake and exhaust manifold designs and the shrouding of the valves. I expect to have about 200 horsepower when I'm done, up 35 from stock. Not huge, but a bit more grunt. A lot of people install dual exhaust using the '41-42 dual carb system, which has two separate exhaust manifolds that make it easier (easier, not easy). You won't get a lot more power, and maybe not even enough to make much of a difference unless you're driving around with your foot on the floor. Remember, most driving is at part throttle when you're not even using a significant portion of the power you have, so think carefully about modifications that you may not even use but a few seconds at a time, if that. I was already in my engine, the work had to be done, so it didn't cost any extra (OK, the cam was $750), but if you already have a running engine, tearing it down in search of horsepower is probably a mistake. Think about how you'll be using the car, what most of your driving will be, and then decide if you really and truly need more power, because the power-per-dollar ratio on an old engine like this is kind of steep. Hope this helps.

Every buyer in my showroom waves the price guides around like the Bible. Every seller says they're bunk. Sometimes it's the same guy. "Well, I want to trade my car, which I believe is worth 20% over book value, but yours is obviously only worth what the book says it is." If you show up in my showroom with a price guide, expect to be given a short tour and a friendly smile, but we probably won't be making a deal unless it's on a Model A Ford or a Camaro.

You took something on trade without knowing what it's worth? Wow. How can I do some business with you? What you've got is the most common, least valuable 1940 Buick they made. It's the wrong color and it needs an interior. When someone can buy a pretty nice, finished one for $12,000, it makes projects like this challenging to sell at any price. Heck, rebuilding the shocks alone is going to cost someone $800. Clean and rust-free is nice, but again, it still needs a full restoration to get any more valuable than it is. So you're going to need to find a guy looking for a project, but not a guy looking for a nice 1940 Buick Special 4-door sedan. You want someone with a bit of cash in his pocket who doesn't know what he wants but wants something to work on and who doesn't care about values, because no matter what he does, that car will never be worth what he'll have invested in it. I like MCHinson's idea of just letting it fly on eBay with no reserve. Leave it as-is, let them decide what it's worth to them. I rarely sell finished cars there, but project cars always bring more than I expect. But I think $7-8000 is unrealistic by quite a bit. Maybe you'll get lucky or maybe you'll learn not to trade on something without knowing exactly what it's worth.

I can almost guarantee nobody is paying $40,000 for an Avanti. The problem with looking at Hagerty's numbers exclusively is that their algorithm is weighted down by their own statistics, which, of course, are insured values, not actual sale prices. The last Avanti I sold had about 10,000 original miles and was loaded with almost every option (except a supercharger). We were finally able to pull about $19,000 out of it. Why you should buy a Studebaker Avanti right now: because you love it. Why you should not buy a Studebaker Avanti right now: every other reason.

You can also point out that services like CarFax only go back to 1988 or so. There was no master database keeping track of cars in 1947... I had a guy recently ask me for a CarFax on a 1935 Ford. What, exactly, was he expecting to see? Better yet, tell him you have a CarFax on the car and you'll bring it to the meeting.

Lots of old wives' tales here. Batteries stored on a concrete floor won't go dead, tires stored on a concrete floor won't dry out. All rumors that have persistently spread for decades but just aren't true. Also, if the concrete slab is 0 degrees, then the wood sitting on it is also going to be 0 degrees, you're not protecting your tires from cold from that particular source. Wood feels warmer than concrete, but that's just to your skin, which has moisture in it. Your car's tires won't notice the difference. Parking on wood is a non-thing, but I understand that if it's always "worked" for you, it certainly won't hurt to keep doing it. It's like this magic rock that keeps tigers away from my desk. 15 years and no tiger attacks yet... As far as controlling moisture in an unheated space, your best bet is to keep the air moving and to ventilate. The biggest problem is when you have drastic swings in temperature, like in late fall and early spring when it may still go to near freezing at night and warm up into the 50s or 60s during the day. Heavy metal car parts will stay cold longer than the air and all the moisture will condense on it--it will be wet all the time. I use a dehumidifier and put a box fan on the floor at low speed just to keep the air moving around a bit. Your best bet would be to finish insulating the garage and put a small heater in it to at least keep temperatures more consistent (45-50 degrees should be sufficient). Simply insulating won't do anything without a heat source; insulation doesn't make heat, it just contains it and if there is no heat, well... Some moisture may wick up through the concrete, but as someone else pointed out, it should be dry enough by now to not be an issue. The most important thing is controlling moisture and air movement.

I have most, maybe all, of a disassembled Columbia 2-speed rear. No controls, but the gears, axles, spider assemblies, housing, and axle tubes are there.

More photos of the numbers and documentation.

*SOLD* This incredible 1970 Olds 442 showed up earlier this week and the more I looked at the more impressive it became. If you're a numbers junkie like I am, it will light up every neuron in your head and beyond that, it's simply a beautifully restored car that's an absolute thrill to drive. But let's just get the highlights out of the way first: It's a real-deal W-30, documented with TWO original broadcast cards.It's a 4-speed, one of only 1032 4-speed W-30s built in 1970.It's got a factory W-27 aluminum rear end housing with 3.91 gears inside, one of only 355 built and one of perhaps only 175 or so with 3.91 gears.It comes with a complete ownership history back to day one, with names, addresses, and phone numbers of all the previous owners.I'll break it down even more, just for you guys who dig this stuff: Open the original W-25 fiberglass ram air hood and you'll find a correct 396021 engine block with both "F" markings, top and bottom. The heads are W-30 F-code "hi-po" big valve units, casting number 404438. Exhaust manifolds are original "W" and "Z" castings. The carburetor is a correct 7040256, which is unique to the W-30 with a 4-speed manual transmission. The intake manifold is a 406115 casting with "OLDS W-455 cast into its face, which is correct for cars built after January 1, 1970, and this car was built on February 24, 1970. The transmission is a correct M21 4-speed with build code POB16B and the VIN stamped into the right side (OM277243). The W-27 aluminum differential carries code SZ, which is 3.91 gears on a Posi and it is date-coded to late 1969. The only possible demerit on the car? It isn't the original block, but it is date-code correct and obviously every effort was made to ensure that aside from the numbers stamped into the pad, it's as accurate as it was rolling off the assembly line in 1970. Now, the good news is that it's also gorgeous. Sherwood Green was the car's original color and it was refinished a few years ago to show standards. The white stripes were painted on, not decals, and it was all buried under the clear for a super-seamless look and feel. There are three or four small nicks on the nose that have been touched up, because the car has been driven a bit since the restoration was completed, but you really need to get close to see them. The doors open and close effortlessly, the trunk pops open on its original springs, even with that heavy wing on it, and the hood uses proper twist-type locks. The sheetmetal is all original and in spectacular condition with nary a ripple or wave anywhere on the car. It's just jaw-dropping in person. The interior is green vinyl buckets, but as Olds fans know, upscale was the name of the game, so they're textured and very elegant-looking. Burled walnut appliques dress up the interior and as an Oldsmobile, there's a more luxurious feel than in a Chevelle or GTO. Much of the sound-deadening materials were removed with the W-30 package, but this sucker is still quiet, smooth, and tight going down the road and I'm simply astounded by how easy it is to drive, how smooth, how composed, and how effortless everything feels. I can't believe Oldsmobile's nastiest muscle car feels so much like my new Cadillac. The gauges were restored, including the rare Tick-Tock-Tach, which I almost didn't notice the first time I drove the car, simply because the needle is so subtle. There's a factory AM/FM radio but with the 4-speed, A/C was not available, so don't ask. Everything you can see or touch is new, the Hurst shifter has the correct reverse-gear locking mechanism tied into the steering column, and the back seat looks completely unused. The trunk is outfitted with a full-sized spare and wheel assembly and a reproduction mat set. I've already mentioned the engine's vitals, but it's also beautiful under the hood. Few muscle cars were more colorful than the 442 W-30, what with its standard lightweight red inner fenders and corporate blue engine enamel. Up top there's a fully functional vacuum-actuated ram air system (you can hear it snap open when you turn off the car) and I can see no notable modifications of any sort. Power brakes were also MIA when you ordered a W-30 4-speed, mostly because the big cam inside the engine isn't very good at making vacuum. However, I have to say that it runs like no other vintage performance car with 500 pounds of torque that I've ever driven. It idles smoothly, it isn't cranky when it's cold, and yes, there's a ton of power on tap in any gear at any speed, but it never shakes or wobbles at idle. It's quite impressive. The 4-speed ratchets through the gears like a bolt-action rifle and clutch action is light with no chatter at all. The undercarriage is highly detailed with minor signs of use, and Olds experts are likely salivating at the sight of that W-27 rear end, which is all aluminum, not just an aluminum cover, and was available only in 1970. The advantages were lighter weight, cooler running, and increased fluid capacity, but getting one was expensive (it was only available on cars with multiple other options like the W-30) so there weren't many takers. Today, this rear axle is worth somewhere between $10,000 and $20,000 all by itself, so take that into consideration when evaluating the car. The exhaust is a reproduction setup with the factory-style trumpets poking out of the rear bumper and there are NOS spiral shocks at the corners. Correct, restored 14-inch SSII wheels are fitted with 245/60/14 BFG radials, and this is the only thing I'd change, because it really needs a set of Goodyear Polyglas bias-plys like the spare. There's a book of receipts with the car that's easily four inches thick. There are a bunch of spare parts included with the car, including a second set of shocks, original AM radio, and other details. You also get decades of 442 documentation, manuals, booklets, articles, and photos. Whew! I'm exhausted, but this is one heck of a car. I spent a lot of time researching all the details on this car because I knew the guys who love the 442s would look at it very closely. Everything is exactly right, and if not for the NOM block, this would be a $125,000 car. Beautiful to look at, insanely fast and wonderful to drive, and full of papers that will delight the numbers guys, it's worth every penny of $74,900 and it's ready to rock right now. Thanks for looking!

You guys humble me greatly and are far, far too kind. It really means a lot to me to see those kind words. Thank you. My point is, the internet never forgets, that's all. We all try to be honest and it's a good idea to be vigilant, but sometimes nit-picking details on a car isn't helpful enough to offset the harm that it might do to an honest seller trying to present an honest car. My personal belief is that every buyer who walks into my showroom is looking for a reason to leave, pronto! They KNOW this is an irrational purchase, they want to find a reason to bail out. Heck, I had a guy come down from Canada and leave 10 minutes later because the paint (on a very original car) had not faded uniformly under the hood--that is, the color under the hood wasn't quite the same as the body. Now obviously that wasn't a deal-breaker for most folks but it was his "out" to gracefully admit that he didn't want to consummate the deal. Posts like those in this thread provide that ammunition to potential buyers and put us at a real disadvantage even before we've started working with the buyer. Anyway, this digression takes away from what is really a nice car represented by one of the most experienced and trustworthy guys in the hobby. I look up to Motoringicons as the benchmark for experience and knowledge and I'm betting all of you do, too. Yes, we now know this car isn't 100% correct, but how many of us actually own perfect 100-point cars that are totally accurate? I bet that's a pretty small number. So please, cut us some slack when we don't spot that a car we're representing has the yellow throttle return spring, but since it was built on a Tuesday, it should have the red one. The collective knowledge here is awesome, but the best most of us can do is to know a little bit about a lot of different cars. Have a happy Thanksgiving, everyone and stay tuned for a very, very cool holiday special I'll upload later tonight...

PM sent.

Has anyone really been far as decided to use even go want to do look more like? You've got to be kidding me. I've been further even more decided to use even go need to do look more as anyone can. Can you really be far even as decided half as much to use go wish for that?

SOLD. Thank you!

How about every single old car in the world? Every old car has hack work hiding somewhere inside because at some point in its life, there was a guy for whom "good enough" was good enough. And most of those guys are still working on cars today...

It's really, really hard to be an expert on every single car. Many times the owner supplies the information, and if he doesn't know (usually) or is trying to be deceptive (never had it happen to me personally) then you're at his mercy. Everyone forgets that they are experts in their particular favorite year/make/model but not everybody is. I'll bet very few of you could spot the things that are incorrect on my 1929 Cadillac simply because that's not your area of expertise. So please, cut us some slack here. I know Motoringicons and I try to be as accurate as possible with our descriptions and we'll both happily tell you all we know about a car, but the key is "all we know." We can't possibly know all things about all makes, all years, all models, and just because something is obvious to you with some level of expertise, don't simply assume that everyone has that same knowledge. This is why I've stopped posting cars here (well, this and the dealer hate thread that eventually got deleted two weeks ago). Too many headaches for zero sales, and once this thread is Google-ified, well, anyone doing a search will see the nit-picks and nay-sayers who purport to be experts and it pretty much poisons the car in the general market. Not that I have anything to hide with my cars, but now someone is going to see this lovely Ford and the comments that follow and figure that the car has issues, which is surely not the case. Motoringicons is most certainly an expert on condition and he is qualified to judge the quality of the work on any car, but authenticity matters can often escape dealers because we aren't experts on every single car. Most buyers are looking for a reason to not buy a car and the comments here have now harmed this car's marketability. It's fun to show off how much you know and I know your hearts are in the right place (hoping that a buyer gets a good car and buys with his eyes wide open) but I don't think any of you would appreciate someone showing up at your job and explaining to the world how bad you are at it and how inferior your product is, even if their intentions were good and especially if you were honestly trying to do your best. /Deleted in 3...2...

This whole thread makes me feel like I'm taking crazy pills.