Matt Harwood

SOLD. Thank you.

Would a '38 transmission work? How different were the '38 and '39 mechanically? I know the '39 has a lot of very unique features and components, but would GM retool a transmission for a one-year-only configuration?

Sadly, the 1949 Buick dashboards were unique, so it's likely that the only radios that will fit are 1949 Buick radios. The radio chassis might be the same as other makes and it might physically fit, but it probably won't be an exact fit with proper knobs and dial. What do you consider a "reasonable" price for a radio like this? Are you looking for something to simply fill the hole or a functioning radio? I wouldn't be surprised to find that a "reasonable" price on a working 1949 Buick radio was $500-1000, and a junk one might be $100-250, perhaps more. I bought a spare radio for parts for my 1941 Buick, which is far more common than a '49, and I think it was about $200 in non-working condition and good only for parts. You might have to adjust your expectations of "reasonably priced."

There's a cousin joke in there, but I'm not going to touch it...

1941 turn signals are definitely self-cancelling. There's a mechanism in the steering column that moves the lever like in a late-model. I've never had it apart, so I can't say how they work (the more common problem is that they won't stay engaged) or how to fix, but the mechanism can't be complicated.

SOLD. Thank you.

And...?

Ooof, yes, way too harsh. That's really no way to welcome someone new. Wheels and tires are a benign modification that doesn't damage the essence of the car. There are probably more Rivieras running around on Buick Road Wheels than were actually built that way--is that a problem? Joe, scroll down through the list of forums and you'll find one dedicated specifically to the Riviera and it's pretty active with a lot of very knowledgeable guys. There's at least one thread from not too long ago discussing various wheel and tire combinations. That should be a big help and those guys are open to minor modifications like you're discussing so you won't get any pushback there. Look here: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/264192-for-this-with-aftermarket-wheels-first-gen/ Good luck and welcome!

Another tip to really get a good torque ball seal is to smooth and polish the ball itself. It will probably have a slightly rough surface, maybe some pitting. Sand it smooth (don't take off too much material) and polish it up and you'll get a better seal and fewer leaks. As long as you have it apart anyway, it doesn't take much extra time to get it as good as it can be. Good luck!

Sold right after the CCCA National Meeting. Thank you, CCCA!

And it sold just that quickly. The trip to Detroit just paid for itself. Thank you, CCCA!

Here's a 1941 75 Series Cadillac limousine in near-usable condition for $19,000 and I bet it could be had for $17,000. There is no logical reason to restore one of these big brutes, and yes, I'd agree that $8000 is an ambitious price for a car in need of everything. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111875121474?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT That said, I do think these big limousines are the biggest bang for the buck in terms of Full Classics that will get you into all the big events. They're nice to drive, have good road manners, plenty of space for the whole family, and even if they're not in demand, their values are pretty stable so you'll always be able to sell it for about what you paid. I like them a lot and this is a worthy car, but just make sure you're restoring it because you love the car and want to do the work. This is the opposite of a situation where a little elbow grease will make you some money.

That looks like a fun little trucklet. I do try to say Willis when I mention these machines, but once in a while my mouth and eyes don't cooperate with my brain and I end up saying Willeez. There's never an apostrophe, but I just read an article written by a major news (new's?) outlet that said "XXX indicates the documentation show's that..." Ugh. Apostrophes get abused. It's a crime akin to jaywalking these days. Have fun with your Willis and honor your grandfather with it.

Cool find, Lawrence! I looked at that car but never noticed the carb linkage. This leads me to a question: do you need two front carburetors to do a fixed linkage like that? I'm toying with the idea of running a fixed linkage rather than the stock progressive linkage on my '41 Limited, just to see what happens. I figured it would still start and idle just fine on the front carb, but the rear carb would come online as soon as I tipped into the throttle, making more power and perhaps it would be smoother, too. The sucker already runs great, so I'm not terribly eager to modify it, but if the change is easy and can be switched back, why not see what happens? I recently bought a second dual carb setup for a big series engine just to get the exhaust manifolds (those on the Limited are cracked), and it came with an intake with dual Rochester 2-barrels of some sort, so obviously somebody was running a modified motor. Not sure I want to change carbs, but can anyone smarter than I am verify that it'll work fine with a fixed linkage and the standard Stromberg carbs? Thanks!

This car just scored 97.75 points at the CCCA National Meeting in Novi, MI on January 16, 2016. A real thrill just to be there, but to win our class was exceptional! Two other dealers approached me about the car, both of them suggesting that it was too cheap. Hmmmm...

It really was excellent. They managed to pull together nineteen V16 automobiles, each better than the last. This is in addition to the 30 or so other cars on display. The 1933 Auburn phaeton from our inventory took first in its class with 97.75 points, which was a nice surprise and a real honor. The events, the planning, the venue, all fantastic. Packard Proving Grounds, NAIAS, two awesome private collections, it was great! Melanie and I had a great time and made a lot of new friends. Hats off to the Michigan Region for putting on a first-class event!

There was a show a few years ago (I can't even recall what it was called) where the main character was a human employee of the devil or something. His interface between our world and Hell was the DMV. It all makes sense now.

Nobody's "maligning" a business. In fact, here's the very post that started this thread: Essentially saying, "Hey, I want to spend some money with these guys, but nobody's answering E-mails and their phone is disconnected. Are they still in business?" doesn't sound like maligning anybody to me. Later posts from people with direct experience with the company are useful and not maligning, either. Just because you're chummy with them and they do their best for you doesn't mean everyone has the same experience or that all the parts are of the same quality. Vendors get parts from many different locations, some are crap and some are nice. Heck, I've bought A LOT of Mustang parts lately for my wife's '66 convertible, all from the same vendor, and even parts from the same manufacturer, a company with a sterling reputation, seem to be a crap shoot in terms of quality. Asking for alternatives or saying that the spatomatic spuctor spring from Company X is inferior to the one from Company Y isn't maligning Company X. What, we're supposed to just keep our mouths closed unless we can speak glowingly of a company? Attacks aren't cool, but saying one part is better than another is hardly libelous. The idea that you shouldn't say anything bad about a company because they might just pack up and stop being in business is ludicrous. Feedback will hopefully make companies better, but I'm pretty sure that hurting their feelings won't make them take their ball and go home. Or is it OK for companies to treat hobbyists like crap because we're a captive audience? There's one big tire maker that already takes that attitude... How 'bout we delete every thread where guys complain how dealers like me are "ruining the hobby for everyone else." Nah, don't do that--we'd only have five or six threads left...

Melanie and I will be arriving on Thursday with the 1933 Auburn convertible sedan for the show on Saturday. Would love to meet folks in person whom I've only met online. Looking forward to it!

I sleep behind the wheel. Isn't that how most long-haul truckers do it? Just set the cruise and it's all fine.

The new Buick Mustang! Actually, this show car is quite handsome. I hope the production version doesn't look watered down and bloated as they try to shoehorn it onto a production platform...

"A Peer Among Trucks?" What does that even mean? "It's a truck like other trucks!" "If you need a truck, this is a truck!" "Does truck things like a truck!" "No better or worse than any other truck!" "As much of a truck as any other truck you'd buy!" It's like when my 10th grade history teacher let us fill out our own progress reports. Mine said simply, "Matthew is definitely getting a grade!" Not really inspiring ad copy and it looks suspiciously like a Ford...

SOLD. There's no way this one was going to sit around. I have cars that are technically "fresher" but this is the best all-around car I've ever had in my inventory. I'm sure going to miss it.

*SOLD* I like Model As. My father's second collector car was a 1930 Model A roadster that he bought when I was just four years old and kept until two years ago. It was the only hobby car we owned that always started, always ran, always got us home, and always made us smile. And that, I think, is the essence of the Model A itself. It's pure, it isn't trying too hard, and it teaches you everything you need to know about caring for and driving an old car. No collection is complete without one, and if you're looking for a place to start collecting pre-war cars, a Model A is the logical first step. This particular 1929 roadster comes from a good friend of mine who has owned it since 1968. He and his father restored it together back in the late '70s. I'll be up front with you: it started out as a phaeton, but once they started taking it apart, they discovered that the phaeton body was so far rotted that they simply bought a brand new roadster body from Snyder's and restored it from there. So yes, it's a rebody but no, I don't think it affects value and if you can discern how this one is different than an original, well, then you're better at this than I am, because it was made on the same dies as Henry's originals. The two-tone green finish (Balsam and Valley Green, I believe) is so pretty that everyone in the showroom stops to admire the cute little roadster, and the detailing is just right. I might think about adding a cream pinstripe to finish it off, but I don't think anyone will complain. I do like the contrast of the black fenders and wheels and this one isn't over-dressed. A single sidemount makes it look smart and windwings are just a good idea on an open car. It has also been fitted with dual taillights for safety and the brightwork is in excellent condition (I suspect the grille is chrome, not nickel which makes for lower maintenance). The interior is brown leatherette, just like Ford did it. I believe it's a Lebaron-Bonney kit, so it's the right material and fits well, but in a Model A, simplicity makes things easy. The materials are durable and there's minimal wear on the seat. Simple door cards are correct and there's a rubber mat on the floor. No-nonsense all the way. It does have engraved etchings on the windwings, which I know the owner doesn't like but never got around to replacing, but otherwise it's original equipment. The gas gauge doesn't work, but that's a relatively easy fix and the odometer stopped keeping track of mileage years ago and he didn't bother with a fix--does it really matter? You can't see it in photos, but when you slide behind the wheel it's quite apparent that this car was restored by a tall guy, because the steering wheel has been tucked a little closer to the dashboard and the shifter was slightly reconfigured to offer more room for the driver. It's noticeable and it's the most comfortable Model A roadster I've driven. A little makes a big difference! The rumble seat is pretty much like new and there's a black long-grain vinyl top, which looks great and stows under a tan canvas boot. The Model A's engine really needs no introduction: reliable, simple, and surprisingly torquey given its modest specifications. This one was fully rebuilt and runs great. A little choke and it fires up quickly and pulls the roadster around with aplomb. I've driven a lot of Model As, and this one feels nimble and quick around town and seems pretty happy at 40 MPH. The engine bay is reasonably well detailed, but it's been driven a lot (it was a favorite tour car), so it's not sparkling perfect. On the other hand, all that tour duty means that it's sorted and ready to go. No deviations from stock, none of the questionable "upgrades" that people always inflict on Model As, just a clean, honest little car. The transmission shifts easily with a quick double-clutch and the brakes have been recently serviced. It carries blackwall tires, which I know will make a lot of guys here happy, and I have to admit that on a Model A of any kind, they're exactly the right choice. Still fun, still easy to work on, and still affordable, this neat little roadster is available for only $21,900. You won't find a nicer one and it's one of the few cars where I can definitely guarantee no rust, because all the important stuff is brand new. Thanks for looking!